5.0 motor oil selection
#21
I've always stuck with the vehicle manufacturer recommended weight, although when using motorcraft or any other oil that is of as poor of quality, having high shear percentages that viscosity rating doesn't hold true for the duration of the drain interval. I use amsoil because it is tested and proven to be superior. You guys should check into it.
The W in 20W50 does not stand for weight. It stands for winter.
#22
It is also proper to say a certain weight of oil, as in "a 30 weight oil". While not the technically correct "30 grade" it is a generally acceptable term.
So, what's your point VSAW?
#23
I'm not "awfully" anything. I was just pointing out the common misconception. It may sound "right" to say "30 weight" but it's not right. I think grade is a better term even though it may not sound as right.
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WestsydeGuy (03-24-2017)
#24
the dealership has always changed the oil for me so i assume they're following the requirements. i am not passing 143xxx miles i want to switch to a full synthetic oil to make sure my engine lasts a very long time.. i live in texas so its always hot.. what should i switch to?? (brand,grade/weight) thanks in advance
Last edited by toledo; 03-24-2017 at 10:07 PM.
#25
Cowboy of the Skies
Always use 5w30 in all the gas cars and pickups.
Mobil 1 synthetic if you wondered what brand.
But always 5w30.
Mobil 1 synthetic if you wondered what brand.
But always 5w30.
#26
How's she goin' eh?
I searched, it said 5w20 so that's what I used. I did my first oil change tonight. It's the second one that's been done since ive owned my truck. I accidentally grabbed a 5w30 1L bottle so I made sure to put 7L of 5w20 and that last 1/4 bottle had to be 5w30. I don't think I need to be worried.
I wanna add, that spout for the oil filter is useless as can be. I took my filter off and very little came that way, the rest went out the back thru that hole in the skid plate.
I also think the dealer over filled it when they did the oil change last time. The used oil totaled just over 7L and I know I lost a good chunk on the floor (1/4 bottle or less...)
I checked the dipstick when I was done and it was in the hatch area. Keep in mind I said 7L not quarts. I converted 7.7 quarts to 7.23L as I'm in Canada.
I would let the dealer do my oil changes as I bought a 5 oil change package for $100 but they lied to me last time about my brakes and we're doing a road trip tomorrow. I bought my oil at Wally World and did it when I got home.
I'm torn about what to do next time. An oil change on these come to $75-80. So I'm saving a ton but i have to deal with the stealership's BS. I might sell them or I might keep them for a rainy day.
I wanna add, that spout for the oil filter is useless as can be. I took my filter off and very little came that way, the rest went out the back thru that hole in the skid plate.
I also think the dealer over filled it when they did the oil change last time. The used oil totaled just over 7L and I know I lost a good chunk on the floor (1/4 bottle or less...)
I checked the dipstick when I was done and it was in the hatch area. Keep in mind I said 7L not quarts. I converted 7.7 quarts to 7.23L as I'm in Canada.
I would let the dealer do my oil changes as I bought a 5 oil change package for $100 but they lied to me last time about my brakes and we're doing a road trip tomorrow. I bought my oil at Wally World and did it when I got home.
I'm torn about what to do next time. An oil change on these come to $75-80. So I'm saving a ton but i have to deal with the stealership's BS. I might sell them or I might keep them for a rainy day.
Last edited by M0RRIS; 03-25-2017 at 01:14 AM.
#27
the dealership has always changed the oil for me so i assume they're following the requirements. i am not passing 143xxx miles i want to switch to a full synthetic oil to make sure my engine lasts a very long time.. i live in texas so its always hot.. what should i switch to?? (brand,grade/weight) thanks in advance
REAL synthetics include Red Line and Amsoil Signature Series and perhaps a couple more. Oils labelled as synthetic (and are highly refined "regular" oils) that will give great service and are just about as good as the two mentioned above can be found on the shelf at your local store. I know of a guy that has been doing 10000 mile changes on Mobil 1 since the 70s; he drives Ford and says it matches close enough to today's OLM that he doesn't worry. You could even go with Supertech synthetic, it's super cheap and is good for at least 5000 miles.
As mentioned above I'm in the 30
For more oil stuff you could visit bobistheoilguy.com; but pretty much any oil you choose off the shelf should do well. Too many choices and too much marketing these days...
#28
How's she goin' eh?
Tough call....if you're saving by going to the dealership vs DIY and knowing what goes in, and that it's the proper amount. I'd go with paying slightly more, have heard too many stories of bad things happening at dealerships....yours may be different but since you said "BS" perhaps it isn't?
I think i posted elsewhere when it happened. They said I needed rear brakes, but they didn't take my wheels off because they didn't ask me for the lug lock. When I called him on it in front of other customers he stuttered and tried to say the tech looked between the spokes.
I'll go there for parts, the counter is pretty good and I've never had an issue, they are also 3-5 minutes away. My dealer I bought my truck from is on the other side of town. Their service guy behind the desk belongs in a tool chest, since he's nothing but a big tool.
#29
the dealership has always changed the oil for me so i assume they're following the requirements. i am not passing 143xxx miles i want to switch to a full synthetic oil to make sure my engine lasts a very long time.. i live in texas so its always hot.. what should i switch to?? (brand,grade/weight) thanks in advance