geove

Yeah, was thinking the same thing...hammer a nut on the end and tack it to the bolt. Have a welder but it's a crappy flux wire 120v. Is that where you were heading with this? I'm open to all suggestions.

SALEEN961

iTrader: (1)

Yep pretty much, if you get some slightly oversized nuts and put one over the bolt you'll have a larger area to weld to. By welding the nut onto the bolt you're putting a lot of heat into the broken bolt which will help to loosen it up and it gives you the ability to get a wrench or socket on the nut and not deal with vice grips slipping in a confined space.

I've used this trick many times and it almost always works, sometimes the nut will break off the stud or the stud might break in a new place below the nut, but if that happens you can always weld another nut on.

A flux core 120V welder should be fine for this job, you'll want to turn it up just about as high as you can and lay down the hottest weld you can to get good penetration and good heat input into the broken bolt.

RLXXI

1/4" drive? You must be joking or a typo.

3/8" drive minimum.
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SALEEN961

iTrader: (1)

No seriously, 1/4" drive, it's the only thing that fits up there without adding a bunch of extensions to work where there's more space. It requires a lot of force, and it's not comfortable, but I've never lifted myself off the ground trying to pull down on the ratchet.

geove

Sounds good. I may just try another, better set of grips before the weld option, but will have the welder ready to go, just the same. If I spend more than 15 minutes fussing with grips again, that'll just about do it for my patience.

I figure if I set the wire feed speed real low and set to the highest temp level as you suggest, I might just be able to tack a nut on that bolt without too much trouble.

What I can't understand is how it's all seized up in there to begin with. If the housing didn't have openings for the bolts in the back, maybe the threads would stay clean enough to come out easily. However, I can't imagine that a bit of oxidation would cause such difficulty with the bolt removal. Oh well, two out of three ain't bad, I guess:-)

geove

I think you're both right...the direct approach from the end of the starter to the bolt is best with a 1/4"drive , 6" swivel ratchet, with 6" extension, and short 13mm socket. BUT, going straight at it from in front of the motor mount with 3/8 extensions will also work, in my opinion although I didn't need to try that since the direct approach did work for me today. In fact, it was pretty easy by feel. I will however try the 3/8" drive approach to reinstall. Will post feedback on progress.

RLXXI

Man I've been pulling wrenches on vehicles for 30+ years and there is no way in hell a 1/4" drive would break that starter bolt free unless it was already loose.

EDIT: A socket on a long handle 1/4" drive ratchet with NO extension is possible. Never tried as it seemed a tad dainty for such a procedure.
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SALEEN961

iTrader: (1)

My Matco AFR68LF is my go to ratchet, even in the rust belt and it's always gotten the job done; I like it so much I even bought 2 so I still have one to use when I inevitably break one. It's only a tad shorter than a standard 3/8" drive and it fits almost everywhere.

You're absolutely right though, with any sizeable extension on a 1/4" you're not breaking those bolts loose, the extension will just twist and you'll get nothing done. I often use a 1" extension to get more to hold onto, but that's about as long as I'd go for trying to break bolts those loose with 1/4" drive.

I'm only 170lbs so maybe I do qualify as being dainty lol

RLXXI

Dainty meaning the tool itself not the tool using it LOL JK.

Look familiar?

AR5T



I've several brands of tools, Matco being one, Snap-on mostly, some Blackhawk, Craftsman, MAC, Blue Point etc.....

One of my Snap-on 1/4" drive ratchets is a long handle about twice as long as that Matco in the pic and it never ever crossed my mind to consider using it on a starter bolt.
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Mamushka

Just a clarification... If you are applying a steady 100 ft/lbs to your ratchet you will get the same force out. It does not matter if you have a 1" or 100" worth of extensions. Yes the extensions will twist (it is basically a stiff torsion spring) but it will transmit 100% of the force with a steady (key word) pull.

If you try jerking the ratchet or are using a impact with a extension then you will reduce the output force as you would be essentially hammering on a spring.