winchested

Mine is back to rattling again almost every start up. It usually sits a day or two between cold starts. Thinking I'm going to change the oil sooner than later. Only at 5k kms (3k miles).

Only 42K miles overall. Really hope the code pops up before my power train runs out next summer.

phool

Hi all,

Add me to the list. 2011 SCrew FX4. I'm right around 75K miles, and have/had the extended warranty. It happened once before, but didn't think much of it. Then when it happened right before the warranty was running out, I took it in.

Dealer had it for 5 days, would start it up a few times, and try to duplicate the problem. Never did it for them. Now I should mention, I only drive the truck maybe 3 days a week, and it's probably only ever done the noise once or twice in the year that I've owned it. I'm 2nd owner, my brother in law was the original owner.

I smelled some gas in the oil, and asked the dealer to look at it while they were checking things out. Said that it wasn't overfilled, and wasn't very strong of a gas smell. Level on dipstick was pretty much dead on of where it should be.

As far as oil, I run Mobile 1 full synth 5w30, and have since I got the truck from bro in law at 60K miles. I think this might be only the 2nd time I've changed it, and it's never less than 25% on the life meter. I'm learning though from reading this thread, I should just disregard the meter and change every 5K. Also read about the seafoam in the oil idea and might try that before I take it in for the next oil change.

Here's where I'm at... I've got 4 years left of payments on it, and I'm at 75K miles. I was really hoping to get 150-200 before I replaced it. I've put about 15K on in just over a year of owning it. Having bought from a family member, we probably have some equity.

So would you ride it out? Get more strict about 5K oil changes with seafoam treatment, and see where it goes? I'm tempted to look at trading in or selling and leasing. Can't afford a $6K engine repair while still making payments on it. Or do I go with the thought that on a forum you don't generally have people checking in every day to say their truck runs great and they love it?

My service rep said they aren't seeing a lot of timing chain issues, and he's a family friend. I'd think if he was acting strictly in the dealerships interest, he'd be pushing for me to get something new.

papa tiger

Change the oil more often leave out the oil additives there are plenty in the Mobile 1 additive package already in the oil. OEM does not approve any oil additives and they will do you mostly harm. You will keep the highest chances of reaching your goal this way. Believing this oil is made for G5 and missing the old anti wear ingredients is ok.. Changing it more often is your best bet. Thinking you can add something to make it a whole lot better will cost you lots.

maplelakeduckslayer

There seems to be a definite relation in my truck to the rattle and performance of the truck. I changed o2's and got an oil change 10 days ago(with Lucas added). Rattle disappeared and truck drove great for about 700 miles. I thought the new o2's fixed it. But performance has fallen off again as the rattle reappeared.

I keep coming back to the idea of the VCT solenoids being stuck open. This causes an over retard condition and that's exactly what seems to happen in my truck. Truck runs great and when oil gets a little used it doesn't build pressure as well. It retards the timing...completely lacking power.

There's a few reasons why I am looking real hard at replacing these. At super cold(-20 degree) temps...truck ran like a raped ape. Obviously cold oil built more pressure. Passenger side is really lean at idle and that o2 is clean as can be. And my rattle completely disappeared last Winter.

The common denominator to my truck performing well seems to be new or very cold oil(increasing oil pressure). I also have rough idle issues almost identical to those of 5.4 owners with bad solenoids.

It's definitely a shot in the dark but it seems to me oil pressure is the common denominator in my truck. Passenger side is easy to do and since the o2 readings are way off on that side...I may start by replacing that side and see what happens. Going to double check the procedures to make sure I am comfortable doing it and will probably order tomorrow. I don't know what other way to go. I know cord has had good luck so far with phasers but I'd like to see that work for 10k plus miles before going that route.

maplelakeduckslayer

Well, ordered all parts to do the passenger side. We will see what happens. Going to throw some seafoam in and drive around this week, and will get oil changed before I replace the solenoids

Cord

Yea, I'm piling on the miles, but I'm not at the 10k mark. Only about 1/3 the way there. Truck sat for two full days this past weekend and fired up totally silent. I'm still in this habit of cringing when the truck has sat for a while. I'd like to encourage you to do both intake phasers. They did my passenger side before replacing the chain and the rattle came back a few days later.

maplelakeduckslayer

That may be a little beyond me haha. I am going to start with the solenoids on the passenger side as that side seems screwed up, and its easy to do that side. If it needs more than that I will take it to the dealer again but waiting to see your results before doing so.

winchested

Are the solenoids the two things at the top front of the valve covers?

maplelakeduckslayer

Yes sir, need to pull the valve covers to replace them

winchested

Found this posted elsewhere (is anyone able to confirm this) No more details than this were given and cannot find any info online:

TSB15-0131, August 19, 2015

Latest timing chain TSB, applies to every 3.5 Eco before 5-29-2015

Replace all four variable camshaft timing (VCT) units and primary timing chain.

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage

Does not say codes are necessary, only startup noise after cold soak of 6 hours or more.