papa tiger

The adjuster rack is damaged an the oil ran past 10000 continuously with gas dilution in it. Every body knows the long chain has to work the HPFP so lubrication is so critical + the over rich mixture after start ups. The thing is it's a no brainier that lubrication brakes down because of it and the hardest stressed parts in the cam drive train failing first. Once the adjuster is screwed the chain slap finishes off the other parts eventually usually sooner than later. Cam chains will not tolerate loose sloppiness. Stuf starts to break up quick. I would go with poor heat treat of the worn parts if the oil question didn't exist in this case. These parts have to get really darn hot to wear abnormally if heat treat is right and lubrication is spot on. So noticing oil level rising means poorer lubrication now. I simply can't go with Morse Tec being at fault with a poor design timing system and loss of oil pressure should set some a Code and push timing all over the place. Most of these motors with timing chains and variable phasors are BorgWarner Morse Tec design. This isn't a quantity of oil flow phenom it is a quality of lubrication syndrome. Every problem I ever had with camshaft related repetitive issues came back to poor lubrication. It is obvious to me that the oil cannot handle gasoline and needs an additive package for it.


Recommended motor oil (U.S.): WSS-M2C946-A


Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor


Oil


XO-5W30-QSP


Recommended Motor oil (Canada): WSS-M2C946-A


Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil


CXO-5W30-LSP12


Recommended motor oil (Mexico): WSS-M2C946-A


Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil


MXO-5W30-QSP


Optional motor oil (U.S. and Mexico): WSS-M2C946-A


Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil


XO-5W30-QFS


Optional Motor oil (Canada): WSS-M2C946-A


Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil


CXO-5W30-LFS


I guess I would move away from these oils.

Cord

Before you get too confident in your diagnosis, please realize the adjuster teeth had some oil on them. There is nothing wrong with the teeth.

tbar57

Mine makes a noise that sounds like ratchet after I release the key on start up but only every once and a while. It is definitely not when the engine is warm. Only on cold start up.

papa tiger

Watch for gasoline build up in the oil closely on the stick and take care of it. Either drive it good and hot or drain it immediately especially in cooler weather. Diesels do the same thing only old diesel fuel lubed better than new diesel fuels do until the additive package was introduced to it.

Salinger

Those last few pages were very good reading!
This topic is now getting a lot more clearer on what is causing the "Rattling" and it's solution. Well documented guys!

I wonder what an old cam phaser sounds after cleaning it from its Inside oil.. I guess if you are shaking it in your hand it will sound like a creepy metal box full of nut & bolts!

LastResort

Cord,

Have you measured the teeth on the phasers or anything else to see if there was wear there? That's my current pet theory on why some people are getting a return very soon is that the teeth are out of spec after running a slowly failing timing chain, then a new chain is thrown on worn teeth, causing the chain wear to accelerate.

papa tiger

The worn teeth is completely viable option as the teeth do wear as the chain stretches in most all applications, the tooth has to absorb the load higher up as the chain lengthens thus even more sloppy in total characteristics.

Cord

I have not had a chance to look at the phasers yet. Was hoping to get to it tomorrow, but we've got some storm damage that needs to be cleaned up first. Instead of the teeth wearing, I'd guess the problem can be found in the pins. Pin wear would result in the chains gaining length.

LastResort

I'm sure the pins have worn or the plates themselves, but I was thinking that it would have an affect on the sprockets as well. Mean that the existing sprockets would wear into a new profile with the increased length of each segment. Then you throw on a new chain, with the worn in tooth profile, and potentially cause issue right away. I've seen some references to this elsewhere, but nothing concrete.

papa tiger

Wear on the teeth tend to cup them inward along the line from the inner/lowest part upward toward the top of the tooth on the drive side of the sprocket. Seeing as the chain makes 6 bends around the drive gears there is always all that extra movement to contend with but oil will play a major part here also but I believe most all chains now have been polished chains pitch designs now mostly to keep debris out of them. Gasoline would tend to compromise these effectiveness to the nth degree and also require a different lubricant for automotive usage now a days which Ford also incorporates. Under sized chains would be ruled out by all the testing that the motor has gone thru under far less than ideal conditions but the motor oil would have been serviced in specs.
For me I know all HPFP shafts leak sooner or later. This includes Diesel where I draw most of my experience from Having replaced many of those shaft seals and then the motor piston sleeve assemblies. I would be much happier to see a pump have a return line allowing the seepage to return to the EVAP separate from the motor assembly on the gas engines. Since the cam timing assemblies usually suffer wear though out its parts they all need replacing if one is noticed to be abnormally worn.