2011 ecoboost noise on start up
#1351
eg:, in about 3 seconds of googling I found this on TundraTalk...
Is the Tundra just a piece of Junk?
Starting to think my tundra is just a giant pile of crap. These are some serious problems though mine only has 7500 miles on it and has not exhibited all of them yet though I am worried.
- Gas pedal
- VVTI spring
- Cracking tailgate
- frame rust
- bumper rust (got this)
- bed bounce (got this)
- sinking dash (got this)
- Crappy heater blower system (got this)
- crappy battery corrosion problem
- drive shaft thump (got this)
- crappy paint (got this)
- cracking camshaft
- supercharger computer problems
- high rev on start (got this)
Starting to think my tundra is just a giant pile of crap. These are some serious problems though mine only has 7500 miles on it and has not exhibited all of them yet though I am worried.
- Gas pedal
- VVTI spring
- Cracking tailgate
- frame rust
- bumper rust (got this)
- bed bounce (got this)
- sinking dash (got this)
- Crappy heater blower system (got this)
- crappy battery corrosion problem
- drive shaft thump (got this)
- crappy paint (got this)
- cracking camshaft
- supercharger computer problems
- high rev on start (got this)
#1352
Senior Member
Mine started rattling every morning the last week or so as I approached and surpassed 3,000 miles on this oil change. Changed it again today.
The other thing I noticed is it seemed right after adding the Lucas product my truck was running properly and had more power than normal. As it started rattling on start up, it seemed performance started falling off, lot of weird boost blow off issues etc. If the engine has low oil pressure with worn oil, is it possible its affecting timing possibly causing these issues? I know the camshaft solenoids are driven off oil. If oil pressure is low could it throw timing off causing these performance issues? Almost as soon as I drove out of the lube place truck drove a lot better. We'll see if it feels better after a couple hundred miles. But it even idles better with the fresh oil/Lucas.
At first I thought it was gas level in the tank affecting performance, then I thought maybe it was just the gas. Then it hit me that as it started to rattle it seemed performance went downhill. Should know in a couple days if it feels better
The other thing I noticed is it seemed right after adding the Lucas product my truck was running properly and had more power than normal. As it started rattling on start up, it seemed performance started falling off, lot of weird boost blow off issues etc. If the engine has low oil pressure with worn oil, is it possible its affecting timing possibly causing these issues? I know the camshaft solenoids are driven off oil. If oil pressure is low could it throw timing off causing these performance issues? Almost as soon as I drove out of the lube place truck drove a lot better. We'll see if it feels better after a couple hundred miles. But it even idles better with the fresh oil/Lucas.
At first I thought it was gas level in the tank affecting performance, then I thought maybe it was just the gas. Then it hit me that as it started to rattle it seemed performance went downhill. Should know in a couple days if it feels better
#1353
EB FX4 EcoRaptor
Cam phasers
Cord,
There are 4 cams phasers on the 3.5L EB. This is what they call "TI-VCT" for Twin-Independant Cam Variable Timing.
As you can see in this TBS (not sure if this is the last update?) for the timing chain replacement, there is the description of the two Intake & two exaust phasers.
There are 4 cams phasers on the 3.5L EB. This is what they call "TI-VCT" for Twin-Independant Cam Variable Timing.
As you can see in this TBS (not sure if this is the last update?) for the timing chain replacement, there is the description of the two Intake & two exaust phasers.
Last edited by Salinger; 07-06-2015 at 09:52 AM. Reason: updated
The following users liked this post:
Cord (07-07-2015)
#1354
EB FX4 EcoRaptor
I don't know if someone here experienced stuck cam phasers? If it could, I expect that this really could reduce the engine performance.
Taken from "UNDERHOOD" Website:
"The pistons of the ECOBoost GTDI 3.5L are different than standard engines. The 3.5L has a dome top piston with a recession in it to increase atomization. As the fuel sprays into the cylinder, it sprays into the recession helping the fuel to swirl and spread throughout the cylinder.
Oil injector nozzles of the GTDI 3.5L are aimed at the piston dome from the underside of the piston to help cool them. This is one good reason why it is critical to use the specific recommended oil. Using too thick of an oil could reduce flow volume and ¬velocity from the nozzles and cause piston damage.
The GTDI engine uses variable cam timing on the intake cams; again, another reason the proper oil type is used in these engines. Intake cam timing is advanced and retarded by pulsing a solenoid that fills and empties chambers inside the multi-piece intake cam sprockets. This causes the camshaft to change clocking position in relation to the sprocket teeth up to 29°. Desired position is calculated by the PCM based largely on load percentage.
Actual cam positions are monitored by cam position sensors. Too thick of an oil can fail to pass through the tiny solenoid and oil manifold passages to fill and empty the sprocket (referred to as a cam phaser), at the proper rate".
We are talking here of improper camphasers function if oil is too thick. On the other side, I would suggest that the phasers can also malfunction with oil been too light.
Taken from "UNDERHOOD" Website:
"The pistons of the ECOBoost GTDI 3.5L are different than standard engines. The 3.5L has a dome top piston with a recession in it to increase atomization. As the fuel sprays into the cylinder, it sprays into the recession helping the fuel to swirl and spread throughout the cylinder.
Oil injector nozzles of the GTDI 3.5L are aimed at the piston dome from the underside of the piston to help cool them. This is one good reason why it is critical to use the specific recommended oil. Using too thick of an oil could reduce flow volume and ¬velocity from the nozzles and cause piston damage.
The GTDI engine uses variable cam timing on the intake cams; again, another reason the proper oil type is used in these engines. Intake cam timing is advanced and retarded by pulsing a solenoid that fills and empties chambers inside the multi-piece intake cam sprockets. This causes the camshaft to change clocking position in relation to the sprocket teeth up to 29°. Desired position is calculated by the PCM based largely on load percentage.
Actual cam positions are monitored by cam position sensors. Too thick of an oil can fail to pass through the tiny solenoid and oil manifold passages to fill and empty the sprocket (referred to as a cam phaser), at the proper rate".
We are talking here of improper camphasers function if oil is too thick. On the other side, I would suggest that the phasers can also malfunction with oil been too light.
Last edited by Salinger; 07-06-2015 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Updated
#1355
Senior Member
My truck ran great for 2800 miles after I thickened the oil...then started rattling again and had way less power, off shifting. Changed the oil Friday, truck is back to running great and no rattle again. I am thinking of replacing the solenoids. 5.4 had same rattle and issues with solenoids as well. Worth a shot at this point. But, driving to Chicago in a couple hours so it will be a couple weeks before I get to it
#1356
Senior Member
Cord,
There are 4 cams phasers on the 3.5L EB. This is what they call "TI-VCT" for Twin-Independant Cam Variable Timing.
As you can see in this TBS (not sure if this is the last update?) for the timing chain replacement, there is the description of the two Intake & two exaust phasers.
There are 4 cams phasers on the 3.5L EB. This is what they call "TI-VCT" for Twin-Independant Cam Variable Timing.
As you can see in this TBS (not sure if this is the last update?) for the timing chain replacement, there is the description of the two Intake & two exaust phasers.
For the record, I have 121,000 on the engine so there is roughly 45,000 miles on the replacement chain. It'll be interesting to see how much wear has occurred in that time. I know that I'm only seeing 2-3 degrees of timing error so this chain seems to be holding up better than the original one which failed at 75,000 miles.
For some reason, I'm feeling like this could be the permanent fix we've been wanting.
#1357
Senior Member
Rooting for ya
#1358
Need help
Mine started rattling every morning the last week or so as I approached and surpassed 3,000 miles on this oil change. Changed it again today.
The other thing I noticed is it seemed right after adding the Lucas product my truck was running properly and had more power than normal. As it started rattling on start up, it seemed performance started falling off, lot of weird boost blow off issues etc. If the engine has low oil pressure with worn oil, is it possible its affecting timing possibly causing these issues? I know the camshaft solenoids are driven off oil. If oil pressure is low could it throw timing off causing these performance issues? Almost as soon as I drove out of the lube place truck drove a lot better. We'll see if it feels better after a couple hundred miles. But it even idles better with the fresh oil/Lucas.
At first I thought it was gas level in the tank affecting performance, then I thought maybe it was just the gas. Then it hit me that as it started to rattle it seemed performance went downhill. Should know in a couple days if it feels better
The other thing I noticed is it seemed right after adding the Lucas product my truck was running properly and had more power than normal. As it started rattling on start up, it seemed performance started falling off, lot of weird boost blow off issues etc. If the engine has low oil pressure with worn oil, is it possible its affecting timing possibly causing these issues? I know the camshaft solenoids are driven off oil. If oil pressure is low could it throw timing off causing these performance issues? Almost as soon as I drove out of the lube place truck drove a lot better. We'll see if it feels better after a couple hundred miles. But it even idles better with the fresh oil/Lucas.
At first I thought it was gas level in the tank affecting performance, then I thought maybe it was just the gas. Then it hit me that as it started to rattle it seemed performance went downhill. Should know in a couple days if it feels better
What is the final thoughts and fix on the ecoboost rattle? Mine rattles every morning?
#1360
Senior Member
Well truck is going under the knife this morning. This will be the third time the engine has been torn apart. The dealer is paying to have the drivers side intake phaser replaced, I'm going to pony up and pay for the updated timing chain and the passenger side phaser. They'll inspect the guides and replace them if there is any noticeable wear. We are not planning on replacing the exhaust phasers as I feel the slave chain may have protected them from the damaging harmonics. I did ask the dealer to compare the chains and I sure hope they do. They set me up with a rental so I plan on stopping over several times and try to catch the engine apart so I can inspect it. I'll post pics and/or a youtube vid if I can.
For the record, I have 121,000 on the engine so there is roughly 45,000 miles on the replacement chain. It'll be interesting to see how much wear has occurred in that time. I know that I'm only seeing 2-3 degrees of timing error so this chain seems to be holding up better than the original one which failed at 75,000 miles.
For some reason, I'm feeling like this could be the permanent fix we've been wanting.
For the record, I have 121,000 on the engine so there is roughly 45,000 miles on the replacement chain. It'll be interesting to see how much wear has occurred in that time. I know that I'm only seeing 2-3 degrees of timing error so this chain seems to be holding up better than the original one which failed at 75,000 miles.
For some reason, I'm feeling like this could be the permanent fix we've been wanting.