Turbo Coolant Fitting Leak w/o Removing Turbo
01-31-2024, 02:07 AM
#1
Turbo Coolant Fitting Leak w/o Removing Turbo
Got the dreaded coolant leak on the driver's side of my 2013.
I believe it's both the send & return (the one closest to wheel fender, and the one facing the motor).
Weird enough, this was replaced 76,000 miles ago (176k on clock) by the dealer.
Passenger side appears to be okay for time-being. Block and manifold sides also appear to be dry.
I know best practice is to replace all fittings and lines, but... I want to roll the dice and replace just fittings.
Possible without removing turbo AND leaving the lines in place?
I believe it's both the send & return (the one closest to wheel fender, and the one facing the motor).
Weird enough, this was replaced 76,000 miles ago (176k on clock) by the dealer.
Passenger side appears to be okay for time-being. Block and manifold sides also appear to be dry.
I know best practice is to replace all fittings and lines, but... I want to roll the dice and replace just fittings.
Possible without removing turbo AND leaving the lines in place?
01-31-2024, 11:37 AM
#2
Senior Member
Turbo coolant lines running forward to the block are going to be a fight. Probably less frustrating, (and easier), to r&r the turbo. You could try leaving the turbo in place, with removal as a back up plan.
Not sure about the 13, but my 2011 OEM line running forward to the block has a flexible mid section, unlike the solid replacement line that bolts in place. If you have/can find one it might go easier.
Please let us know if leaving the turbo in place works out or not.
2011 XLT Screw 4x4 3.5l 3:55LS
Last edited by Barry_Vee; 01-31-2024 at 12:09 PM.
01-31-2024, 12:08 PM
#3
Odd, I don't have that, nor have I ever seen that in the videos/research I've been doing. Why they didn't put a flex section for all the line fittings is beyond me. I've seen folks replacing with AN lines, but want to give this straight swap a try first.
That was the idea, replace oil fittings, if I can't get them then I'll order the other parts to remove the turbo and redo the other fitting and lines while I have them out and access.
I am concerned about inducing another leak from the other end of the line, so will my best to minimize movement on that line.
Might have to pressurize with distilled water first to make sure I didn't induce any other leaks. With the access to the wheel-well-most turbo fitting being so open, it surprises me nobody has tried to remove that fitting without R&R turbo.
That was the idea, replace oil fittings, if I can't get them then I'll order the other parts to remove the turbo and redo the other fitting and lines while I have them out and access.
I am concerned about inducing another leak from the other end of the line, so will my best to minimize movement on that line.
Might have to pressurize with distilled water first to make sure I didn't induce any other leaks. With the access to the wheel-well-most turbo fitting being so open, it surprises me nobody has tried to remove that fitting without R&R turbo.
01-31-2024, 12:15 PM
#4
Senior Member
Odd, I don't have that, nor have I ever seen that in the videos/research I've been doing. Why they didn't put a flex section for all the line fittings is beyond me. I've seen folks replacing with AN lines, but want to give this straight swap a try first.
That was the idea, replace oil fittings, if I can't get them then I'll order the other parts to remove the turbo and redo the other fitting and lines while I have them out and access.
I am concerned about inducing another leak from the other end of the line, so will my best to minimize movement on that line.
Might have to pressurize with distilled water first to make sure I didn't induce any other leaks. With the access to the wheel-well-most turbo fitting being so open, it surprises me nobody has tried to remove that fitting without R&R turbo.
That was the idea, replace oil fittings, if I can't get them then I'll order the other parts to remove the turbo and redo the other fitting and lines while I have them out and access.
I am concerned about inducing another leak from the other end of the line, so will my best to minimize movement on that line.
Might have to pressurize with distilled water first to make sure I didn't induce any other leaks. With the access to the wheel-well-most turbo fitting being so open, it surprises me nobody has tried to remove that fitting without R&R turbo.
02-07-2024, 02:28 AM
#5
I was able to unclip with a hook, popped the line. It was instantly loose and easy to move vertically, 19mm socket and an extension got the old fitting out, new fitting in.
Torqued to 159 in-lbs, degreaser & cleaned the line, wheel bearing grease for the o-ring and pushed hard to get the line to clip. Shockingly easy and simple with just the wheel fender out & tire off.
I figured, this is worth a shot. I only lose ~$25 in concentrated coolant & distilled water if it fails and I need to pull the turbo off.
The manifold fitting was dry as a bone, the rear cylinder head was also very dry. The fitting facing the motor shows signs of seepage, but since been dried (and never seen dripping). This fitting facing the wheel well was leaking the minute the motor shut off, even leaking and smoking while truck was on. So definitely the culprit.
Driver side fittings, manifold, gaskets & all were replaced August 2020 at ~100k mi by Ford, covered by Ford ESP. It's now February 2024 at 176k. The fitting had significant debris and corrosion.
While I was at it, I also had a (major) leak from the heater hose between firewall -> thermostat -> coolant reservoir. I also had significant grime build up on the front main, which I think was likely caused by a weeping water pump, maybe driver valve cover (passenger has been replaced with vacuum pump ~50k mi ago). So I did a water pump, pulley, heater hose and serpentine belt. I skipped the AC belt. Gunk degreaser, pressure water made quick work of the grime build up. New seals and we're back in one piece.
I'll continue to monitor the common leak points and chime back in if it failed. I do a substantial amount of off-roading, so I'm waiting for the vibrations to pop another one loose.
Torqued to 159 in-lbs, degreaser & cleaned the line, wheel bearing grease for the o-ring and pushed hard to get the line to clip. Shockingly easy and simple with just the wheel fender out & tire off.
I figured, this is worth a shot. I only lose ~$25 in concentrated coolant & distilled water if it fails and I need to pull the turbo off.
The manifold fitting was dry as a bone, the rear cylinder head was also very dry. The fitting facing the motor shows signs of seepage, but since been dried (and never seen dripping). This fitting facing the wheel well was leaking the minute the motor shut off, even leaking and smoking while truck was on. So definitely the culprit.
Driver side fittings, manifold, gaskets & all were replaced August 2020 at ~100k mi by Ford, covered by Ford ESP. It's now February 2024 at 176k. The fitting had significant debris and corrosion.
While I was at it, I also had a (major) leak from the heater hose between firewall -> thermostat -> coolant reservoir. I also had significant grime build up on the front main, which I think was likely caused by a weeping water pump, maybe driver valve cover (passenger has been replaced with vacuum pump ~50k mi ago). So I did a water pump, pulley, heater hose and serpentine belt. I skipped the AC belt. Gunk degreaser, pressure water made quick work of the grime build up. New seals and we're back in one piece.
I'll continue to monitor the common leak points and chime back in if it failed. I do a substantial amount of off-roading, so I'm waiting for the vibrations to pop another one loose.
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Barry_Vee (02-07-2024)
02-07-2024, 12:47 PM
#6
Senior Member
Nice write up & pictures.
