UPR catch can review. What a mess... Literally!
#1
UPR catch can review. What a mess... Literally!
Good afternoon, fellers 'n fellerettes. I apologize if this gets lengthy, but if you're in the market for a catch can system, you'll want to read this in its entirety. This review isn't just about the product, but also the service.
Last fall I purchased two UPR single can kits (their number 5032) for my 2014 F150 Ecoboost. After getting the kits installed, the first thing I noticed was the vacuum leak on both sides. So, I bought some adjustable clamps in order to seal it up. After that, the vacuum leak was solved. *Note: The kit did NOT include clamps nor did it call for the use of them.*
After a few miles, I noticed the odor of oil in the cab. After inspecting the kits, I noticed there was an oily residue on the outside of one of the cans. It wasn't leaking enough to actually drip onto anything, but it was definitely leaking at the threaded joints. So, I went to get some Teflon tape to add to the threads. After a few tries, I was able to get just the right amount of tape on the threads to keep it from leaking. *Note: The kit did NOT include Teflon tape nor did it call for the use of same.*
All was well for a few miles. Then, I smelled the same odor of oil from before. Upon inspection, I noticed an oily film on the outside of the same can. Although the threaded joints were so bad that oil had completely soaked into the Teflon tape, that wasn't where the leak was coming from. This time, it was leaking at the joint where the top and bottom of the can screws together. So, I get my trusty roll of Teflon tape and have at it.
Although the engine bay of my truck looked like that of an '89 Chebbie, there were no leaks. Still, I wasn't satisfied. After all, there were no clamps nor Teflon tape in the kit, and there was no mention of needing them. Additionally, it just looked awful! I mean have you ever seen the engine bay of an '89 Chebbie? Lol.
At this point, I contacted UPR. They said it was odd that I had these issues and seemed as if it was the first they've heard of such. Also, they said I shouldn't have had a need for the Teflon tape and that I surely shouldn't have had to use clamps. About 2-3 weeks from my initial contact regarding the issues, they agreed to send a replacement. I received the replacement, installed it, and all was well.
Fast forward a couple of months. I started to have the exact same trouble from the other can! At the time, I was so busy with work that I didn't have a lot of time for the emailing back and forth that was sure to ensue. So, once again, I broke out the trusty Teflon tape and went to town.
About three weeks ago, I got tired of fighting it. I contacted UPR again. My contact this go around is different from the first time, so I gave a bit of background about my trouble with their kits to the new contact. After about two weeks, I received the verdict.
Basically, they're willing to swap what I have, even-steven, for an exact replacement. Fine, other than the fact that I've had nothing but trouble out of what I have. The other option was to upgrade to their new, "state-of-the-art" setup, plus an upgrade to the new CSCC - All said to retail for about $420. For the "nominal" fee of $299, I can upgrade.
Let's do math. I paid $260 for what I have. On one hand, what I have is worth $260 (the full purchase price) toward an exact replacement. Now, subtract the "special price" of $299 from the retail price of the upgraded kit of $420. The difference (in this case, discount or credit for what I have now) is $121. How can the defective kit I have be worth $260 toward a direct replacement, but it's only worth $121 toward an upgrade???
Besides, look at how much my total out-of-pocket would be in order to upgrade to the $420 kit. $260 plus $299 is $559. $559 spent to end up with a $420 kit??? As you can see, that's not a good deal for me at all. Just ridiculous! I wouldn't even consider proposing something like this to one of our customers.
If their "Lifetime Warranty" allows for full credit toward one kit, why wouldn't it be the same for another? Not to mention all the time, trouble, and headache I've had with this kit so far. I suppose that accounts for exactly bupkis. Amazing.
Apparently, this issue isn't as new to UPR as they initially lead me to believe, either. I saw a recent post where UPRJoe said they're in the process of procuring black Teflon tape to include with their new "state-of-the-art" kits. He even calls the Teflon tape the "cure-all". Do they also now come with hose clamps? Why is there even a need for either with their new, state-of-the-art kit?
All in all, I've been very disappointed with both the product I purchased and the level of service I've received to date. This isn't intended to bash a company, product, or person. It's simply an honest, no-nonsense review based upon my personal experience.
Buyer, be informed. If you get a UPR kit, stock up on Teflon tape and hose clamps.
Last fall I purchased two UPR single can kits (their number 5032) for my 2014 F150 Ecoboost. After getting the kits installed, the first thing I noticed was the vacuum leak on both sides. So, I bought some adjustable clamps in order to seal it up. After that, the vacuum leak was solved. *Note: The kit did NOT include clamps nor did it call for the use of them.*
After a few miles, I noticed the odor of oil in the cab. After inspecting the kits, I noticed there was an oily residue on the outside of one of the cans. It wasn't leaking enough to actually drip onto anything, but it was definitely leaking at the threaded joints. So, I went to get some Teflon tape to add to the threads. After a few tries, I was able to get just the right amount of tape on the threads to keep it from leaking. *Note: The kit did NOT include Teflon tape nor did it call for the use of same.*
All was well for a few miles. Then, I smelled the same odor of oil from before. Upon inspection, I noticed an oily film on the outside of the same can. Although the threaded joints were so bad that oil had completely soaked into the Teflon tape, that wasn't where the leak was coming from. This time, it was leaking at the joint where the top and bottom of the can screws together. So, I get my trusty roll of Teflon tape and have at it.
Although the engine bay of my truck looked like that of an '89 Chebbie, there were no leaks. Still, I wasn't satisfied. After all, there were no clamps nor Teflon tape in the kit, and there was no mention of needing them. Additionally, it just looked awful! I mean have you ever seen the engine bay of an '89 Chebbie? Lol.
At this point, I contacted UPR. They said it was odd that I had these issues and seemed as if it was the first they've heard of such. Also, they said I shouldn't have had a need for the Teflon tape and that I surely shouldn't have had to use clamps. About 2-3 weeks from my initial contact regarding the issues, they agreed to send a replacement. I received the replacement, installed it, and all was well.
Fast forward a couple of months. I started to have the exact same trouble from the other can! At the time, I was so busy with work that I didn't have a lot of time for the emailing back and forth that was sure to ensue. So, once again, I broke out the trusty Teflon tape and went to town.
About three weeks ago, I got tired of fighting it. I contacted UPR again. My contact this go around is different from the first time, so I gave a bit of background about my trouble with their kits to the new contact. After about two weeks, I received the verdict.
Basically, they're willing to swap what I have, even-steven, for an exact replacement. Fine, other than the fact that I've had nothing but trouble out of what I have. The other option was to upgrade to their new, "state-of-the-art" setup, plus an upgrade to the new CSCC - All said to retail for about $420. For the "nominal" fee of $299, I can upgrade.
Let's do math. I paid $260 for what I have. On one hand, what I have is worth $260 (the full purchase price) toward an exact replacement. Now, subtract the "special price" of $299 from the retail price of the upgraded kit of $420. The difference (in this case, discount or credit for what I have now) is $121. How can the defective kit I have be worth $260 toward a direct replacement, but it's only worth $121 toward an upgrade???
Besides, look at how much my total out-of-pocket would be in order to upgrade to the $420 kit. $260 plus $299 is $559. $559 spent to end up with a $420 kit??? As you can see, that's not a good deal for me at all. Just ridiculous! I wouldn't even consider proposing something like this to one of our customers.
If their "Lifetime Warranty" allows for full credit toward one kit, why wouldn't it be the same for another? Not to mention all the time, trouble, and headache I've had with this kit so far. I suppose that accounts for exactly bupkis. Amazing.
Apparently, this issue isn't as new to UPR as they initially lead me to believe, either. I saw a recent post where UPRJoe said they're in the process of procuring black Teflon tape to include with their new "state-of-the-art" kits. He even calls the Teflon tape the "cure-all". Do they also now come with hose clamps? Why is there even a need for either with their new, state-of-the-art kit?
All in all, I've been very disappointed with both the product I purchased and the level of service I've received to date. This isn't intended to bash a company, product, or person. It's simply an honest, no-nonsense review based upon my personal experience.
Buyer, be informed. If you get a UPR kit, stock up on Teflon tape and hose clamps.
Last edited by dewserb; 06-28-2015 at 09:53 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by dewserb:
#2
BoostKing Tuning
Thank you for the heads up. I know which kit I'm going to avoid now.
__________________
www.BoostKingTuning.com
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Wow, sorry to hear that. I've had zero issues with my UPR kit and it works perfectly. But I own the fully upgraded kit that was on the market back in early 2014 before they made all of these "new-generation" revisions with the valves and everything else. I have no clue what I could possibly need Teflon tape for on my kit. Lol. I guess they changed things drastically.
Mine doesn't even need clamps, my lines at the can are snug fit and everything works perfectly with no issues, leaks, or seeps. Glad I got in before the QC issues arose.
Mine doesn't even need clamps, my lines at the can are snug fit and everything works perfectly with no issues, leaks, or seeps. Glad I got in before the QC issues arose.
Last edited by johndog82; 07-13-2015 at 05:21 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Alright fellas, help me see if my understanding of the dual valve catch can system is correct.
My concern is at WOT. There are 2 check valves (drawn in picture), one going to the intake manifold, the other to pre-compressor.
At WOT there will be no flow going to the intake manifold from the catch can because it is under boost. So flow from the catch can will be going to pre-compressor.
BUT, at WOT it will pulling vacuum on the clean side separator AND passenger side valve cover both. And because of the check valve going to the intake manifold which does not allow air to flow to the catch can then the whole crankcase will be under vacuum.
On the stock setup there are no check valves so at WOT air flows; Intake Manifold -> Passenger side valve cover -> crankcase -> Driver side valve cover -> pre-compressor
My concern is that with the new setup the crankcase will be under vacuum at WOT due to the Intake Manifold to Catch Can check valve whereas the stock setup would potentially have pressure in the crankcase at WOT due to pressure in the Intake Manifold.
My concern is at WOT. There are 2 check valves (drawn in picture), one going to the intake manifold, the other to pre-compressor.
At WOT there will be no flow going to the intake manifold from the catch can because it is under boost. So flow from the catch can will be going to pre-compressor.
BUT, at WOT it will pulling vacuum on the clean side separator AND passenger side valve cover both. And because of the check valve going to the intake manifold which does not allow air to flow to the catch can then the whole crankcase will be under vacuum.
On the stock setup there are no check valves so at WOT air flows; Intake Manifold -> Passenger side valve cover -> crankcase -> Driver side valve cover -> pre-compressor
My concern is that with the new setup the crankcase will be under vacuum at WOT due to the Intake Manifold to Catch Can check valve whereas the stock setup would potentially have pressure in the crankcase at WOT due to pressure in the Intake Manifold.
#7
Senior Member
Good afternoon, fellers 'n fellerettes. I apologize if this gets lengthy, but if you're in the market for a catch can system, you'll want to read this in its entirety. This review isn't just about the product, but also the service.
Last fall I purchased two UPR single can kits (their number 5032) for my 2014 F150 Ecoboost. After getting the kits installed, the first thing I noticed was the vacuum leak on both sides. So, I bought some adjustable clamps in order to seal it up. After that, the vacuum leak was solved. *Note: The kit did NOT include clamps nor did it call for the use of them.*
After a few miles, I noticed the odor of oil in the cab. After inspecting the kits, I noticed there was an oily residue on the outside of one of the cans. It wasn't leaking enough to actually drip onto anything, but it was definitely leaking at the threaded joints. So, I went to get some Teflon tape to add to the threads. After a few tries, I was able to get just the right amount of tape on the threads to keep it from leaking. *Note: The kit did NOT include Teflon tape nor did it call for the use of same.*
All was well for a few miles. Then, I smelled the same odor of oil from before. Upon inspection, I noticed an oily film on the outside of the same can. Although the threaded joints were so bad that oil had completely soaked into the Teflon tape, that wasn't where the leak was coming from. This time, it was leaking at the joint where the top and bottom of the can screws together. So, I get my trusty roll of Teflon tape and have at it.
Although the engine bay of my truck looked like that of an '89 Chebbie, there were no leaks. Still, I wasn't satisfied. After all, there were no clamps nor Teflon tape in the kit, and there was no mention of needing them. Additionally, it just looked awful! I mean have you ever seen the engine bay of an '89 Chebbie? Lol.
At this point, I contacted UPR. They said it was odd that I had these issues and seemed as if it was the first they've heard of such. Also, they said I shouldn't have had a need for the Teflon tape and that I surely shouldn't have had to use clamps. About 2-3 weeks from my initial contact regarding the issues, they agreed to send a replacement. I received the replacement, installed it, and all was well.
Fast forward a couple of months. I started to have the exact same trouble from the other can! At the time, I was so busy with work that I didn't have a lot of time for the emailing back and forth that was sure to ensue. So, once again, I broke out the trusty Teflon tape and went to town.
About three weeks ago, I got tired of fighting it. I contacted UPR again. My contact this go around is different from the first time, so I gave a bit of background about my trouble with their kits to the new contact. After about two weeks, I received the verdict.
Basically, they're willing to swap what I have, even-steven, for an exact replacement. Fine, other than the fact that I've had nothing but trouble out of what I have. The other option was to upgrade to their new, "state-of-the-art" setup, plus an upgrade to the new CSCC - All said to retail for about $420. For the "nominal" fee of $299, I can upgrade.
Let's do math. I paid $260 for what I have. On one hand, what I have is worth $260 (the full purchase price) toward an exact replacement. Now, subtract the "special price" of $299 from the retail price of the upgraded kit of $420. The difference (in this case, discount or credit for what I have now) is $121. How can the defective kit I have be worth $260 toward a direct replacement, but it's only worth $121 toward an upgrade???
Besides, look at how much my total out-of-pocket would be in order to upgrade to the $420 kit. $260 plus $299 is $559. $559 spent to end up with a $420 kit??? As you can see, that's not a good deal for me at all. Just ridiculous! I wouldn't even consider proposing something like this to one of our customers.
If their "Lifetime Warranty" allows for full credit toward one kit, why wouldn't it be the same for another? Not to mention all the time, trouble, and headache I've had with this kit so far. I suppose that accounts for exactly bupkis. Amazing.
Apparently, this issue isn't as new to UPR as they initially lead me to believe, either. I saw a recent post where UPRJoe said they're in the process of procuring black Teflon tape to include with their new "state-of-the-art" kits. He even calls the Teflon tape the "cure-all". Do they also now come with hose clamps? Why is there even a need for either with their new, state-of-the-art kit?
All in all, I've been very disappointed with both the product I purchased and the level of service I've received to date. This isn't intended to bash a company, product, or person. It's simply an honest, no-nonsense review based upon my personal experience.
Buyer, be informed. If you get a UPR kit, stock up on Teflon tape and hose clamps.
Last fall I purchased two UPR single can kits (their number 5032) for my 2014 F150 Ecoboost. After getting the kits installed, the first thing I noticed was the vacuum leak on both sides. So, I bought some adjustable clamps in order to seal it up. After that, the vacuum leak was solved. *Note: The kit did NOT include clamps nor did it call for the use of them.*
After a few miles, I noticed the odor of oil in the cab. After inspecting the kits, I noticed there was an oily residue on the outside of one of the cans. It wasn't leaking enough to actually drip onto anything, but it was definitely leaking at the threaded joints. So, I went to get some Teflon tape to add to the threads. After a few tries, I was able to get just the right amount of tape on the threads to keep it from leaking. *Note: The kit did NOT include Teflon tape nor did it call for the use of same.*
All was well for a few miles. Then, I smelled the same odor of oil from before. Upon inspection, I noticed an oily film on the outside of the same can. Although the threaded joints were so bad that oil had completely soaked into the Teflon tape, that wasn't where the leak was coming from. This time, it was leaking at the joint where the top and bottom of the can screws together. So, I get my trusty roll of Teflon tape and have at it.
Although the engine bay of my truck looked like that of an '89 Chebbie, there were no leaks. Still, I wasn't satisfied. After all, there were no clamps nor Teflon tape in the kit, and there was no mention of needing them. Additionally, it just looked awful! I mean have you ever seen the engine bay of an '89 Chebbie? Lol.
At this point, I contacted UPR. They said it was odd that I had these issues and seemed as if it was the first they've heard of such. Also, they said I shouldn't have had a need for the Teflon tape and that I surely shouldn't have had to use clamps. About 2-3 weeks from my initial contact regarding the issues, they agreed to send a replacement. I received the replacement, installed it, and all was well.
Fast forward a couple of months. I started to have the exact same trouble from the other can! At the time, I was so busy with work that I didn't have a lot of time for the emailing back and forth that was sure to ensue. So, once again, I broke out the trusty Teflon tape and went to town.
About three weeks ago, I got tired of fighting it. I contacted UPR again. My contact this go around is different from the first time, so I gave a bit of background about my trouble with their kits to the new contact. After about two weeks, I received the verdict.
Basically, they're willing to swap what I have, even-steven, for an exact replacement. Fine, other than the fact that I've had nothing but trouble out of what I have. The other option was to upgrade to their new, "state-of-the-art" setup, plus an upgrade to the new CSCC - All said to retail for about $420. For the "nominal" fee of $299, I can upgrade.
Let's do math. I paid $260 for what I have. On one hand, what I have is worth $260 (the full purchase price) toward an exact replacement. Now, subtract the "special price" of $299 from the retail price of the upgraded kit of $420. The difference (in this case, discount or credit for what I have now) is $121. How can the defective kit I have be worth $260 toward a direct replacement, but it's only worth $121 toward an upgrade???
Besides, look at how much my total out-of-pocket would be in order to upgrade to the $420 kit. $260 plus $299 is $559. $559 spent to end up with a $420 kit??? As you can see, that's not a good deal for me at all. Just ridiculous! I wouldn't even consider proposing something like this to one of our customers.
If their "Lifetime Warranty" allows for full credit toward one kit, why wouldn't it be the same for another? Not to mention all the time, trouble, and headache I've had with this kit so far. I suppose that accounts for exactly bupkis. Amazing.
Apparently, this issue isn't as new to UPR as they initially lead me to believe, either. I saw a recent post where UPRJoe said they're in the process of procuring black Teflon tape to include with their new "state-of-the-art" kits. He even calls the Teflon tape the "cure-all". Do they also now come with hose clamps? Why is there even a need for either with their new, state-of-the-art kit?
All in all, I've been very disappointed with both the product I purchased and the level of service I've received to date. This isn't intended to bash a company, product, or person. It's simply an honest, no-nonsense review based upon my personal experience.
Buyer, be informed. If you get a UPR kit, stock up on Teflon tape and hose clamps.
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#8
Bought one of those to install on my 2016 5.0. Before I installed it I read a number of threads here about the pros and cons of the catch can.
Catch can is still sitting in a box as I never installed it.
Anybody want it? Pay for postage or come over to my house in Charlotte NC and you can have it.
Catch can is still sitting in a box as I never installed it.
Anybody want it? Pay for postage or come over to my house in Charlotte NC and you can have it.
#9
UPR Mega Catch Issues
Installed a UPR mega catch can on my 2012 F-150. I drove 2600 miles to Albuquerque and back and emptied the can. I did get nearly a full water bottle of fuel smelling liquid and goo, but I was also getting an oily smell in the cab. No leaks from the can or hoses. I noticed my gas mileage was lower than expected for a cross country trip. The other thing I noticed was higher than normal oil level on the dip stick and a strong fuel smell from the oil cap. Don't remember that happening before and thought it might be coincidence with a boosted gas direct injection engine (I've also read about this issue with ecoboost and ford's TSB). Anyway I changed oil and removed the can as a precaution, checked the check valves, noticed they were not sealing like I thought they should and contacted UPR. instead of the customer service I expected for paying $500 for the thing so far I've gotten a recommendation to put teflon tape for the smell and not a lot of concern on their part for check valves that don't check. They asked that I take pictures of the install, but I'm not sure how that would help with a check valve issue. Now they want me to send it back so they can "evaluate" the system.
Not sure I want to send it back unless they pay for shipping and/or refund me until I get the darn thing back. I'm a little ticked that they don't believe me when I tell them the check valves don't seal. seems simple blow the way they're supposed to seal and little or no air should get through.........
The oil smell in the cab has gone away, but the fuel smell in the oil has not.
I'm also a little challenged when it comes to circulation. vacuum from throttle intake at idle and thru the can with PCV valve on the passenger side supplying air, but on boost won't the vacuum from the driver side turbine inlet pull air from both the driver side clean air separator and the PCV? the can will separate out the vapors from the PCV side, but what happens to residue laden vapor from the clean side separator? Seems like it goes through the driver side turbo CAC and right into the intake body....?
Anyway I'm hoping for positive service from UPR and resolution one way or the other. It did remove and keep 16 ounces of stuff from going into the intake that probably shouldn't but if it may be doing as much harm as good? It does seem well built and looks good and it went on like they advertise with factory fittings (even though their directions stink it is simple to install and I think a 6 year old could do it).
Not sure I want to send it back unless they pay for shipping and/or refund me until I get the darn thing back. I'm a little ticked that they don't believe me when I tell them the check valves don't seal. seems simple blow the way they're supposed to seal and little or no air should get through.........
The oil smell in the cab has gone away, but the fuel smell in the oil has not.
I'm also a little challenged when it comes to circulation. vacuum from throttle intake at idle and thru the can with PCV valve on the passenger side supplying air, but on boost won't the vacuum from the driver side turbine inlet pull air from both the driver side clean air separator and the PCV? the can will separate out the vapors from the PCV side, but what happens to residue laden vapor from the clean side separator? Seems like it goes through the driver side turbo CAC and right into the intake body....?
Anyway I'm hoping for positive service from UPR and resolution one way or the other. It did remove and keep 16 ounces of stuff from going into the intake that probably shouldn't but if it may be doing as much harm as good? It does seem well built and looks good and it went on like they advertise with factory fittings (even though their directions stink it is simple to install and I think a 6 year old could do it).