IWE a eliminators
I have a 2014 F150 XLT 5.0 with a 2 inch levelling kit .Just like almost everyone I hear complaining about the IWE hubs I hate this system Ford has come up with it breaks easily sticks in cold weather and is just terrible. I have seen IWE eliminators on Stage 3 has anyone used these ?? They say it basically will be like the jeep system and many other 4 wheel drive systems your cv will spin always without power from transfer case until you swith into 4 wheel drive and engage transfer case . Just wanted to see if anyone has used or has experience with these
I havn't used them... but if you don't have any issues yet, you can just unplug the vacuum going to the IWE and cap it off. If you have issues such as grinding already, then I'd buy the eliminators and install them.
You will get a small hit on MPG, and you will probably have a tid bit more NVH. I'd change your front diff fluid too if it's never been changed and you're going to start spinning it 24/7.
This right here. If your IWE's are in good shape, just unplug the vac. line and cap it off at the engine. The IWE eliminators are for when your IWE's are shot and you want to ditch the system all together.
You will get a small hit on MPG, and you will probably have a tid bit more NVH. I'd change your front diff fluid too if it's never been changed and you're going to start spinning it 24/7.
You will get a small hit on MPG, and you will probably have a tid bit more NVH. I'd change your front diff fluid too if it's never been changed and you're going to start spinning it 24/7.
No need to tear about your front end. Just unplug the electrical connector from the solenoid or plug the vacuum line. Each of those things are the same as locking a hub with the eliminator. Only added benefit of the IWE eleminitor is it has sharp teeth to engage the hub. Yours already has good teeth as long as it's not a failing system that would have damaged the IWE. If so, the hub teeth will be in jeopardy too.
Just unplug the solenoid or cap the vacuum line. Tie up the electrical or vacuum hose and move on!
The IWE should not 'stick'. If it does, it means the grease is too heavy or there is not enough vacuum to move the IWE. If you have that problem, and the IWE is only partially engaged, then the teeth on the IWE and/or hub are probably worn. If the teeth are worn, the wheel cannot be locked....as in the wheel will not provide traction on a slippery surface as it is effectively disconnected.
I think the fixes/solutions have been described the same in your other 2 threads.
If you want to put in an IWE Eliminator for any need, go for it. Otherwise do as previously mentioned. Also, before spending money on the parts, FIRST do as described to confirm it solves the problem. If it does stay quiet and you feel better with the Eliminator THEN you can order it and have it installed.
I do not recall if your truck has been leveled? Has it, and by how much?
Just unplug the solenoid or cap the vacuum line. Tie up the electrical or vacuum hose and move on!
The IWE should not 'stick'. If it does, it means the grease is too heavy or there is not enough vacuum to move the IWE. If you have that problem, and the IWE is only partially engaged, then the teeth on the IWE and/or hub are probably worn. If the teeth are worn, the wheel cannot be locked....as in the wheel will not provide traction on a slippery surface as it is effectively disconnected.
I think the fixes/solutions have been described the same in your other 2 threads.
If you want to put in an IWE Eliminator for any need, go for it. Otherwise do as previously mentioned. Also, before spending money on the parts, FIRST do as described to confirm it solves the problem. If it does stay quiet and you feel better with the Eliminator THEN you can order it and have it installed.
I do not recall if your truck has been leveled? Has it, and by how much?
No need to tear about your front end. Just unplug the electrical connector from the solenoid or plug the vacuum line. Each of those things are the same as locking a hub with the eliminator. Only added benefit of the IWE eleminitor is it has sharp teeth to engage the hub. Yours already has good teeth as long as it's not a failing system that would have damaged the IWE. If so, the hub teeth will be in jeopardy too.
Just unplug the solenoid or cap the vacuum line. Tie up the electrical or vacuum hose and move on!
The IWE should not 'stick'. If it does, it means the grease is too heavy or there is not enough vacuum to move the IWE. If you have that problem, and the IWE is only partially engaged, then the teeth on the IWE and/or hub are probably worn. If the teeth are worn, the wheel cannot be locked....as in the wheel will not provide traction on a slippery surface as it is effectively disconnected.
I think the fixes/solutions have been described the same in your other 2 threads.
If you want to put in an IWE Eliminator for any need, go for it. Otherwise do as previously mentioned. Also, before spending money on the parts, FIRST do as described to confirm it solves the problem. If it does stay quiet and you feel better with the Eliminator THEN you can order it and have it installed.
I do not recall if your truck has been leveled? Has it, and by how much?
Just unplug the solenoid or cap the vacuum line. Tie up the electrical or vacuum hose and move on!
The IWE should not 'stick'. If it does, it means the grease is too heavy or there is not enough vacuum to move the IWE. If you have that problem, and the IWE is only partially engaged, then the teeth on the IWE and/or hub are probably worn. If the teeth are worn, the wheel cannot be locked....as in the wheel will not provide traction on a slippery surface as it is effectively disconnected.
I think the fixes/solutions have been described the same in your other 2 threads.
If you want to put in an IWE Eliminator for any need, go for it. Otherwise do as previously mentioned. Also, before spending money on the parts, FIRST do as described to confirm it solves the problem. If it does stay quiet and you feel better with the Eliminator THEN you can order it and have it installed.
I do not recall if your truck has been leveled? Has it, and by how much?
So with a 2" level, it's not TOO bad. Depending on the angle of your CV shaft, you'll notice the boot around the CV joint may be more folded at the 'pinch point' so to speak. If the axle (CV shaft) is horizontal, the accordion boot pleats don't really touch. Once the joint has the bend and the boot touches, the boot can wear as a result of the axle remaining locked. Meaning with any method used to lock the hub, the axle turns (which who cares), and the boot will rub on itself and can wear more quickly. It's not going to tear in a month or 2, but you may have to change the boot once (maybe more??) in the time you own the vehicle.
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So with a 2" level, it's not TOO bad. Depending on the angle of your CV shaft, you'll notice the boot around the CV joint may be more folded at the 'pinch point' so to speak. If the axle (CV shaft) is horizontal, the accordion boot pleats don't really touch. Once the joint has the bend and the boot touches, the boot can wear as a result of the axle remaining locked. Meaning with any method used to lock the hub, the axle turns (which who cares), and the boot will rub on itself and can wear more quickly. It's not going to tear in a month or 2, but you may have to change the boot once (maybe more??) in the time you own the vehicle.






