Fuse tap w/out a "tap-a-fuse"
 

Have a 12v to 5v converter with an in-line 3A fuse that I want to wire up to my dash cam for switched power. The kit I have did not include a tap-a-fuse. But with the in-line 3A fuse I do not see a reason to use a tap-a-fuse. I can simply put the positive wire into the hot side terminal of one of my fuses and then reinstall the fuse, correct? I could make things neater by tapping one of the 12V wires going into the fuse box, I suppose, but not sure how accessible those are and the small wires would be a pain to properly solder or crimp and heat shrink. Any issues with this? Since my kit has an inline 3A fuse (output is 1.5A) it seems overkill to use a tap-a-fuse which would essentially fuse that circuit twice. Also concerned with getting my fuse box cover back on if I use a tap-a-fuse.

With that said, what fuse would you guys recommend I tap into? Was thinking of using either fuse location #8 which is listed as heated mirrors, switch indicator and is fused at 10A or fuse location #31 which is listed as radio power and is fused at 20A. Although what they are currently fused at shouldn't matter since I'll be pulling from the hot side. Both should be switched power and are nothing essential just in case something went wonky. This is on a 2004 XLT SCrew, FWIW.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...8c2a948f21.jpg
the blu with red tracer go to each side of fuse all was fine abs light came on i replaced rear vss hoping for easy fix didnt work so i started looking and found no power to fuse 17 maked abs on panal cover

i have ordered a repair manual just hopping to fix before hand