Topic Sponsor
Aftermarket Products, Reviews & Installation Discuss modifications and enhancements to your Ford F150.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Bilstein 5100 install - tools?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 4, 2018 | 10:31 PM
  #1  
joemomma's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 306
Likes: 34
Default Bilstein 5100 install - tools?

I’ve decided to go with the 5100s for my level kit. Does anyone have a list of required tools or anything out of the ordinary that’s required? I’ve got a pretty decent set of tools, but not a complete shop by any means. I know I’ll need a 19mm wrench from the install videos I’ve watched.
I don’t want to get halfway into the install and find I’m missing something. I have a 1/2 electric impact and impact sockets and standard wrenches/ratchets. I just don’t have anything real big outside of what I would consider “standard” home average DIY stuff. I’m going to get a second pair of spring compressors - can’t be too safe with those.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2018 | 08:03 PM
  #2  
Theocoog's Avatar
Just Another Member
Veteran: Army
10 Year Member
Liked
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 7,111
Likes: 191
From: New England
Default

This video describes the tools and basic process, although they are installing a different brand of shock.


FWIW, after bending two sets of spring compressors, I took both struts to a local repair shop and they compressed the springs and let me swap the shocks, for free. I gave the technician $40 for doing the scary part of the job.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2018 | 08:41 PM
  #3  
Scott91370's Avatar
Trying to figure it out!
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,987
Likes: 916
From: Ft Worth, Texas
Default

You can do it with hand tools and the spring compressors. Having air tools does make it go quicker.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2018 | 09:26 PM
  #4  
midtenn's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 219
Likes: 17
Default

I’m in the middle of this now. Rent an axle socket set from advance. Then rent two sets of spring compressors. You will also need a breaker bar and torque wrench. It isn’t hard but I found using two sets of spring compressors makes it an easier task. The only local shop that would do the reassembly of the strut for me wanted $125.
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2018 | 10:28 AM
  #5  
joemomma's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 306
Likes: 34
Default

I’ve got the large sockets covered I think with my 1/2” drive set - they go up to 30-something mm. I do need a breaker bar. I was planning on two sets of compressors - good advice. Thanks guys.

edit - are guys disconnecting the battery? I’ve heard horror stories related to the EPAS.

MIDTENN - how’d you make out?

Last edited by joemomma; Jul 7, 2018 at 10:35 AM.
Reply
Old Jul 8, 2018 | 01:25 PM
  #6  
midtenn's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 219
Likes: 17
Default

Originally Posted by joemomma
I’ve got the large sockets covered I think with my 1/2” drive set - they go up to 30-something mm. I do need a breaker bar. I was planning on two sets of compressors - good advice. Thanks guys.

edit - are guys disconnecting the battery? I’ve heard horror stories related to the EPAS.

MIDTENN - how’d you make out?

Worked out really well. You may not make this mistake but I did so I figure I’d share. When compressing the OEM strut on the first side, I didn’t compress it enough and the top but just spun. It never did “catch” so I had to drill a bunch of small holes into the nut and bust it off with a chisel. It took hours. On the second side, I made extra sure to compress the springs until the top just pops. It won’t make a loud noise, but kinda pop off. At that point, then begin unscrewing the top nut. It came 80% off before free spinning. I then used a 7mm combination wrench to keep the shaft from spinning.

It’s not a terrible job, just tedious and you have to go slow to make sure you reassemble the strut correctly (as in the plastic thing, the little orange/yellow bump stop, etc.) The drivers side took about 7 hours and the passenger side about 2. If I needed to do it again, I could do a car in an afternoon.

I went to to get mine aligned after and discovered I have broken lower ball joints. While that does suck, taking it out won’t be nearly as daunting.

Good luck.

Last edited by midtenn; Jul 8, 2018 at 01:39 PM.
Reply
Old Jul 8, 2018 | 08:47 PM
  #7  
joemomma's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 306
Likes: 34
Default

Thanks for the tips. Hopefully it goes well. I’m planning to do the install next weekend.
Reply
Old Jul 10, 2018 | 01:13 PM
  #8  
midtenn's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 219
Likes: 17
Default

Good luck...there's a whole forum here.

Something I'd consider while I had the truck apart is replacing the upper ball joint. If you had, say 150K miles plus on it...I'd certainly lean that way because you'd already have everything you need taken apart already. While it would be premature....just something to consider since they aren't super expensive and it's only a couple bolts once you get the strut out.
Reply
Old Jul 10, 2018 | 03:36 PM
  #9  
joemomma's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 306
Likes: 34
Default

Thanks - truck only has 24K on it, so hopefully it isn't shot yet! I'll certainly check it for play while I'm in there.

Did you disconnect your battery while you were doing the install? I've seen some do it and some don't, I just don't want to mess up the EPAS.

What about the axle nut? I've seen a couple videos (I think it was Stage3's) where they take the axle nut off, but none of the CJ videos do it. There was another one I watched where they didn't remove it either. I'm guessing they are doing that for more droop?
Reply
Old Jul 10, 2018 | 04:48 PM
  #10  
redranger04g's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 332
Default

Originally Posted by joemomma
Thanks - truck only has 24K on it, so hopefully it isn't shot yet! I'll certainly check it for play while I'm in there.

Did you disconnect your battery while you were doing the install? I've seen some do it and some don't, I just don't want to mess up the EPAS.

What about the axle nut? I've seen a couple videos (I think it was Stage3's) where they take the axle nut off, but none of the CJ videos do it. There was another one I watched where they didn't remove it either. I'm guessing they are doing that for more droop?
I did not disconnect the battery and did not take the axle nut off. Just support the spindle with a rope so it doesn't fall to out of position
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:08 PM.