411 on additives
09-09-2010, 09:24 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
411 on additives
Lost of posts here about additives. Lots of people rushing out to use additives based on what others have posted.
I did extensive research and would like to pass on the following.
First, modern oil especially synthetic oil does not require any additives. The oil producers working with manufacturers have put all needed additives in motor oil. In fact some fuel/oil additives actually destroy the manufacturer additives in the oil making the oil perform poorly. To the best of my research ALL VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS SAY NO OIL ADDITIVES.
A chemical analysis of additives showed almost all fuel cleaner/engine cleaner/ oil cleaner products had the same common ingredients:
1. Naptha - a solvent used to remove rubber and glue products (Jet fuel is a naptha based fuel)
2. Pale oil - a type of refined oil either yellow or clear
3. ISP alcohol (rubbing alcohol).
The solvent eats away varnish and gum, but unfortunately if too much is used or is used too often it can also eat away rubber and some plastics and strip teflon coatings from critical fuel injection components. Naptha can also eat up gaskets and gasket cements or coatings.
The Pale oil is for lubrication to the upper engine. Many parts of the upper engine are not lubricated by the motor oil so they require lubrication from gasoline. The ISP (IsoPropyl) will mix with water in the gas tank and help remove that water by burning it in the engine with the gasoline.
Of the three ingredients, only Pale oil is typically harmless to the engine.
Ford and most other engine manufacturers say NO ADDITIVES to the oil.
Gasket manufacturers say NO ADDITIVES TO THE OIL OR FUEL. There are many tiny ports in the engine that can become clogged with dislodged carbon or gum and oil that is too thick cannot properly lubricate the tiny openings and maintain proper flow and wear or failure can result. Too much naptha in the fuel system can degrade rubber components and O rings as well as system hoses and gaskets. There is no conspiracy by the manufacturers of vehicles and components to help people get less life from their engines or parts by telling them not to use any additives.
Tests showed much of the "improved performance" is actually in the mind of the person using the product and there was no real improvement. The so called " huge white smoke " when an excessive amount of a fuel/oil additive product is forced into the engine is not "the engine blowing out gunk and being cleaned" as many think and claim, it is the excessive additive being burned by the engine. Carbon and gunk smoke would be black, not white. Pale oil and naptha burn white.
In fact, most fuel additives have the same contents but some are in a spray can and some are liquid.
I used fuel cleaner additives all the time in my cars in the gas until I researched and realized they can harm the engine and components if used too much. To this day I swear a fuel/oil additive destoryed the 55,000 mile 5 year old engine in my car. It was fine until I used the addtive PER DIRECTIONS then the engine was crap and required $2,000 in repairs so I junked the car. Blown gaskets, valve seals, Head Gasket.
Current fuel is 10% ethanol. Ethanol is a SOLVENT so the gasoline is already 10% solvent. In addition Ethanol has NO lubrication properties so current E10 gasoline has only 90% the lubrication properties for the upper engine that pure gasoline has.
I have switched to one product. I now use Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant which according to the look, feel, and smeel appears to be mostly pure Pale oil and does not have all those corrosive solvents. Aside from being the cheapest ( $ 10.00 will treat 6 tanks of gas) it replaces the lubrication lost from the ethanol and helps provide needed additional lubrication to all the upper engine components without the risk of solvent based cleaners.
I won't name the product that is a huge fad on this site but I have used it, it worked OK in an old tractor, but I would never use it in my great running truck because it is risky. I would certainly never pour it into the Vaccum lines because it could cause Hydraulic lock and blow the engine.
I challenge anyone to tell me introducing a product into vaccuum system of a running engine can not cause Hydraulic lock.
I don't care one way or the other since I don't make any money off the products, I am not out to get any company, and I don't want to tell anyone what they should or should not do.
If you want a great running engine, use synthetic oil, a Motorcraft filter, and change the oil as recommended without fail.
I just wanted to pass on some information for those who are interested.
Now does the video below really look like it is helping the engine?
Be honest.
I did extensive research and would like to pass on the following.
First, modern oil especially synthetic oil does not require any additives. The oil producers working with manufacturers have put all needed additives in motor oil. In fact some fuel/oil additives actually destroy the manufacturer additives in the oil making the oil perform poorly. To the best of my research ALL VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS SAY NO OIL ADDITIVES.
A chemical analysis of additives showed almost all fuel cleaner/engine cleaner/ oil cleaner products had the same common ingredients:
1. Naptha - a solvent used to remove rubber and glue products (Jet fuel is a naptha based fuel)
2. Pale oil - a type of refined oil either yellow or clear
3. ISP alcohol (rubbing alcohol).
The solvent eats away varnish and gum, but unfortunately if too much is used or is used too often it can also eat away rubber and some plastics and strip teflon coatings from critical fuel injection components. Naptha can also eat up gaskets and gasket cements or coatings.
The Pale oil is for lubrication to the upper engine. Many parts of the upper engine are not lubricated by the motor oil so they require lubrication from gasoline. The ISP (IsoPropyl) will mix with water in the gas tank and help remove that water by burning it in the engine with the gasoline.
Of the three ingredients, only Pale oil is typically harmless to the engine.
Ford and most other engine manufacturers say NO ADDITIVES to the oil.
Gasket manufacturers say NO ADDITIVES TO THE OIL OR FUEL. There are many tiny ports in the engine that can become clogged with dislodged carbon or gum and oil that is too thick cannot properly lubricate the tiny openings and maintain proper flow and wear or failure can result. Too much naptha in the fuel system can degrade rubber components and O rings as well as system hoses and gaskets. There is no conspiracy by the manufacturers of vehicles and components to help people get less life from their engines or parts by telling them not to use any additives.
Tests showed much of the "improved performance" is actually in the mind of the person using the product and there was no real improvement. The so called " huge white smoke " when an excessive amount of a fuel/oil additive product is forced into the engine is not "the engine blowing out gunk and being cleaned" as many think and claim, it is the excessive additive being burned by the engine. Carbon and gunk smoke would be black, not white. Pale oil and naptha burn white.
In fact, most fuel additives have the same contents but some are in a spray can and some are liquid.
I used fuel cleaner additives all the time in my cars in the gas until I researched and realized they can harm the engine and components if used too much. To this day I swear a fuel/oil additive destoryed the 55,000 mile 5 year old engine in my car. It was fine until I used the addtive PER DIRECTIONS then the engine was crap and required $2,000 in repairs so I junked the car. Blown gaskets, valve seals, Head Gasket.
Current fuel is 10% ethanol. Ethanol is a SOLVENT so the gasoline is already 10% solvent. In addition Ethanol has NO lubrication properties so current E10 gasoline has only 90% the lubrication properties for the upper engine that pure gasoline has.
I have switched to one product. I now use Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant which according to the look, feel, and smeel appears to be mostly pure Pale oil and does not have all those corrosive solvents. Aside from being the cheapest ( $ 10.00 will treat 6 tanks of gas) it replaces the lubrication lost from the ethanol and helps provide needed additional lubrication to all the upper engine components without the risk of solvent based cleaners.
I won't name the product that is a huge fad on this site but I have used it, it worked OK in an old tractor, but I would never use it in my great running truck because it is risky. I would certainly never pour it into the Vaccum lines because it could cause Hydraulic lock and blow the engine.
I challenge anyone to tell me introducing a product into vaccuum system of a running engine can not cause Hydraulic lock.
I don't care one way or the other since I don't make any money off the products, I am not out to get any company, and I don't want to tell anyone what they should or should not do.
If you want a great running engine, use synthetic oil, a Motorcraft filter, and change the oil as recommended without fail.
I just wanted to pass on some information for those who are interested.
Now does the video below really look like it is helping the engine?
Be honest.
02-03-2011, 09:11 PM
#4
Senior Member
people like you are the ones that deserve more recognition. i was thinking about using seafoam in my 99 150 (having just discovered all of the people that swear by it on here) but after researching it more, i found this. and needless to say, i sure am glad i did.. and if anyone still isnt convinced, here is the more scientific explanation from otto457-
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/seafoam...-79106/index2/
again man thanks. this is why im a member of f150forum
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/seafoam...-79106/index2/
again man thanks. this is why im a member of f150forum
02-10-2011, 08:04 AM
#5
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I have also read the pros and cons on seafoam,And I never heard any one had there motor lock up either,untill than it is also just speculation.I would think a company that tells you to put this in your brake intake line RIGHT ON BACK OF CAN if anyone wants to read it? most dont! That they would have been sued by now and yanked this stuff off the auto store shelf. IF anyone on this forum has had there motor lock up PLEASE tell us.There is to much speculation about this seafoam and NO proof for either side.Except for thousands of satisfied customers on one side, and worry warts on the other.
02-10-2011, 11:38 AM
#7
Ok I'll chime in here. I'm pretty careful about what I add to a motor.Pretty much the only thing I'd ever add to gas is mystery oil once in a while to help clean and lubricate some things.
I've read quite a bit about Sea Foam, and I have a 89 Toro snowblower that was surging up and down due to the ethanol in the gas gumming up the carb. I added about 3oz of Sea Foam to about 2 gallons of gas fired up the snowblower and it blew out black smoke for about 30 seconds then purred like a kitten.
I was able to snowblow my entire driveway with the carb. wide open. It ran awesome.
I probably wouldn't add it to my car or truck, because I grew up working in my dads auto body shop and I've see things clog up oil screens when you try to clean out a high mileage motor, but the stuff worked unreal on my tiny 8 horse snowblower motor.
Just my experiance with it.
I've read quite a bit about Sea Foam, and I have a 89 Toro snowblower that was surging up and down due to the ethanol in the gas gumming up the carb. I added about 3oz of Sea Foam to about 2 gallons of gas fired up the snowblower and it blew out black smoke for about 30 seconds then purred like a kitten.
I was able to snowblow my entire driveway with the carb. wide open. It ran awesome.
I probably wouldn't add it to my car or truck, because I grew up working in my dads auto body shop and I've see things clog up oil screens when you try to clean out a high mileage motor, but the stuff worked unreal on my tiny 8 horse snowblower motor.
Just my experiance with it.
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02-10-2011, 11:51 AM
#8
Been using Sea foam for years in pretty much everything i own that has an engine.
Snow blower, mower, outboard, Inboard, cars, motorcycle....etc...etc...etc...
My snow blower is 15 years old and runs like new, my mower is 20 years old and runs like new. My outboard is 34 years old, and runs like new, starts every time, took the carbs off the motor for the first time in 12 years last year, clean as a whistle. my inboard(before i sold it) was 36 years old, original, ran like new and started every time. Same with all my cars and motorcycles.
Talk all you want...the performance i can see speaks for itself.
Snow blower, mower, outboard, Inboard, cars, motorcycle....etc...etc...etc...
My snow blower is 15 years old and runs like new, my mower is 20 years old and runs like new. My outboard is 34 years old, and runs like new, starts every time, took the carbs off the motor for the first time in 12 years last year, clean as a whistle. my inboard(before i sold it) was 36 years old, original, ran like new and started every time. Same with all my cars and motorcycles.
Talk all you want...the performance i can see speaks for itself.
02-10-2011, 11:53 AM
#9
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As far as stuff clogging up oil screens, I've always changed my oil right after using seafoam, pretty much takes care of any worries when it comes to carbon and stuff floating in your oil pan.
06-29-2015, 09:59 PM
#10
I used Seafoam on my 1997 Honda Accord when it had a rough idle; my idle was as smooth as a baby's butt afterwards, and it wasn't placebo; it was really smooth.. I know this, because it used to shake so hard that it would hurt my wrists, but it purred like a kitten afterwards. I don't know if it screwed anything up internally, but Seafoam definitely cleans off the internals as advertised --shown and proven here: