jnc852

For the crank pulley bolt, you tighten it really good in the first step to help suck the pulley shaft into the front seal (its a very tight fit). In the second step you loosen the bolt (doesnt need to be one turn, but it needs to be loose), to ensure any extra tension you put on the bolt /pulley is removed after sucking the pulley shaft into the seal. Then you torque to a spec and add another 90degrees. I'm used to bolts that you add XX degrees being torque-to-yield bolts that are only supposed to be used once due to stretching, but I dont think thats the case with this bolt. There might be more to it than that, but I'm not a mechanic either - just an electrical engineer. Maybe someone else on the forums knows the reasoning behind a degree spec vs a torque spec.

For the oil pan, you preload each bolt to the torque spec starting in the middle and working in a spiral pattern towards the ends. Once they're all torqued, repeat the pattern by adding another 60degrees. I found I couldnt tighten them the full 60 degrees with hand tools and so ended up tightening them as much as I could with a flat wrench/socket. If I ended up with leaks, I figured I'd just tighten them some more. In my experience, its better to under-torque and tighten later than over-torque and flatten/ruin the gasket.

Oh, one more thing I should warn/remind you about - if you put new tensioners on, make sure you remove the tensioner shipping clips that hold the pistons in after you set the chains. Honestly, I woke up in a panic at 3AM, because I could only remember removing one of them before buttoning the front up. I had to empty out the garbage can in the shop to find both clips and reassure myself i did it right - I never took a picture before setting the front cover on. Also, lucky for me I kept the clips after that, because when I had to retime the engine after the chains slipped the first time, I needed them to hold the tensioners in.

Did you end up with any guide pieces in your oil pan/strainer? I'm also curious if you bothered removing the cam followers....

papa tiger

It's tighten back up 60 degrees on the pully retension capscrew, and the reason you tighten the pan in degrees is to let the gasket sealer seal the gasket in place, otherwise it will squirm out and leak. Wait several hours before the final round of tightening the screws. Don't hurry the instal of the pan. The sealer does most of the sealing and it sets slowly. Don't overtighten the capscrews, do it properly with good sockets.

lentz

update. i didnt bother messing with the guide followers. would there be any reason i should? also, yes my oil pickup looked like some plastic had gone through a blender and got stuck up in there. it wasnt completely plugged, i looked in and saw nothing in there, but when i cleaned it out it all came crumbling out. so ive got one more question for papabear, it sounds like i should snug the bolts on the oil pan, wait awhile, then torque down. true? guys, thanks a ton for the help. when i first jumped into this i got that warm feeling that ive come to know over the years when ive gotten too deep into something and was extremely worried if id really mess things up. the help ive gotten from you guys has at least eased my nerves!

jnc852

If you don't remove the cam followers, the cam can have torque applied to it by the valve springs. When you remove the chains with torque on the cam, the cam can turn. If you leave the cam in the wrong spot, holding down a valve or two, then turn the engine crank for whatever reason, you can push a piston into one of your valves. Just make sure your cam isn't holding down any valves or don't turn the crank without the chains on and you'll be fine.

The oil pan gasket I got had a rubber seal as part of a plastic frame, so I didn't have to let mine sit. I Just snugged it the first round, then tightened it up as much as I could on the second round - not quite getting the full additional 60deg.

I'm glad to hear everything is going well so far.

J

lentz

what do you guys sapose the cause of this problem is? pretty sure its not the tensioner because the tensioner only puts tension on the tension guide arm. the chain guide was the one that broke. stretched chain? do the cam phasers wear out to the point that they dont keep the chain tight. i ask cause i saw how much phasers were and thought id save $500-$600 by not buying phasers and just go the tensioner and guides route. figured if a phaser went out it wouldnt be terrible to change, just pull the valve cover. now that ive got the new guides and tensioners on ive noticed and unreasonable amount of play in the chains. so much that they touch each other every half turn. so instead of just putting a bandaid on it ive decided to do the right thing (pretty much what i should have planned in the first place) and go full surgical repair and chainge chains sprockets and phasers. hopeing that doing all that solves this "timing chain slack" problem. dont burn me for trying to go the cheap route! april, im getting surgery and wont be working for 3-5 months so im trying to save money. so much for that!

lentz

well guys, final update. got the parts sat, phasers, crank sprocket, and chains. started yesterday, finished today. job complete with no issues!!! great success! only short fall was i forgot to plug in a connection that went from the wiring harness on the drivers side to the air intake. started up and was idoling like shiot. shut'er down and saw i forgot to make that connection. started up and ran great afterwards! boy was i sweatin. i wanna thank you guys again, and tiger you were right. once its finished and done right its extremely rewarding! cheers guys

justin lentz

papa tiger

Excellent, and chain slap due to bad phaser probably broke the stuff. You just don't always know until you take it apart.

jnc852

Glad to hear everything went well! Thanks for the update.

J