01-22-2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Issue: Is your F-150’s engine idling loudly?
The eight cylinder engines are notorious for this due to the cam phasers. For the unaware, cam phasers are responsible for adjusting the camshaft position to improve fuel injection into the cylinders, which leads to better fuel efficiency when idling and the ability to draw power from the engine more quickly. However, after anywhere from 60,000-100,000 miles, they also cause rough, loud idling due to wear and tear.
While the cause can typically be linked to the cam phasers, solutions to the problem vary widely. Some of the top recommendations include:
Read the full thread to find out which of these solutions is best for your truck.
The eight cylinder engines are notorious for this due to the cam phasers. For the unaware, cam phasers are responsible for adjusting the camshaft position to improve fuel injection into the cylinders, which leads to better fuel efficiency when idling and the ability to draw power from the engine more quickly. However, after anywhere from 60,000-100,000 miles, they also cause rough, loud idling due to wear and tear.
While the cause can typically be linked to the cam phasers, solutions to the problem vary widely. Some of the top recommendations include:
- While the noise is annoying, the cam phaser itself isn’t actually breaking. If you can live with it, your F-150 will be fine.
- If the truck is under warranty, bring it to the dealership.
- It’s possible they may need to either replace the cam phasers, or even the cam phasers and camshaft as well.
- Install a coil spring behind each cam phaser to reduce the rattle as it moves.
- Swap the cam phasers from a larger engine so that it sits more tightly, reducing the rattle.
Read the full thread to find out which of these solutions is best for your truck.
5.4L cam phasers.. What goes bad?
03-06-2012, 09:03 PM
#82
I had a question. I have a 2004 4.6 and I wanted to know does the 4.6 have phasers as well? Cause I have a ticking noise coming from the driver side and I can't figure out what it is.
03-06-2012, 09:58 PM
#84
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hinesville/ FT. Stewart Georgia
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My codes were almost identicle as well. Misfire cylinder #2 and lean condition bank #1.
Hate to ask, but you said you did sparkplugs, did you do them all or just the offending spark plug? Also did you replace the coils?
Hate to ask, but you said you did sparkplugs, did you do them all or just the offending spark plug? Also did you replace the coils?
Last edited by zombiesoldier; 03-06-2012 at 10:02 PM.
03-07-2012, 07:26 AM
#85
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Richfield, Nc
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=zombiesoldier;1507475] My codes were almost identicle as well. Misfire cylinder #2 and lean condition bank #1.
Hate to ask, but you said you did sparkplugs, did you do them all or just the offending spark plug? Also did you replace the coils?
Yes I did replace all the plugs, because to me it would not make much sense to do just the ones I was getting codes on since it was about at the 100000 mile mark to change them. Also if you are going to change them yourself and they are the original plugs in my experience with this truck is that it will cost $100.00 just for plugs and you will need the spark plug tip removal tool. If some one you know doesnt have one they are on the internet and at a lower price than what I had paid $120.00 at Napa Auto, but i did not want to wait for mine to be shipped and I thought it would fix my truck right away, but it did not so here I am. As far as the coils I only replaced the one that was throwing the code but the coil was ok, I switched the coil to the #2 cylinder to see if it threw a code and did not so I am confident that the coil is ok. Also before changing the plugs on the 5.4 if your PCM is on the firewall on the passenger side [3 large plugs in it] I found it a lot easier to remove the PCM and the bracket so that you can get to #4 cylinder a lot more comfortable.
Hate to ask, but you said you did sparkplugs, did you do them all or just the offending spark plug? Also did you replace the coils?
Yes I did replace all the plugs, because to me it would not make much sense to do just the ones I was getting codes on since it was about at the 100000 mile mark to change them. Also if you are going to change them yourself and they are the original plugs in my experience with this truck is that it will cost $100.00 just for plugs and you will need the spark plug tip removal tool. If some one you know doesnt have one they are on the internet and at a lower price than what I had paid $120.00 at Napa Auto, but i did not want to wait for mine to be shipped and I thought it would fix my truck right away, but it did not so here I am. As far as the coils I only replaced the one that was throwing the code but the coil was ok, I switched the coil to the #2 cylinder to see if it threw a code and did not so I am confident that the coil is ok. Also before changing the plugs on the 5.4 if your PCM is on the firewall on the passenger side [3 large plugs in it] I found it a lot easier to remove the PCM and the bracket so that you can get to #4 cylinder a lot more comfortable.
Last edited by twthomas1; 03-07-2012 at 07:30 AM.
03-07-2012, 07:36 AM
#86
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Richfield, Nc
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As far as I have been seeing yes they do. But just because you are hearing the ticking doesnt mean that it is the phaser. I am by know means a pro at this because if I where I would not be here looking for help in assuring that is exactly what is wrong with mine. I am almost to the point it is my phasers because as my vehicle warms up and everything starts to cycle the truck gets worse and if it stalls it does act like the timing is off.
03-08-2012, 01:07 PM
#89
Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Buy a vac gauge and check your vacuum at idle. I havent tested mine, but I hear it should be ~17-20.
If you don't have proper vacuum, It could be a vac line leak, air manifold leak or your cats might be clogged (exhaust back pressure).
You might be able to test for clogged cats by pulling out the o2 sensors to allow exhaust gases a path out.
To test vac or manifold leaks I hear spraying ether or some other highly combustible material around the manifold or lines will cause a surge in the idle. I've never tried it, but the reasoning sounds right.
Another thing to try is to pull the vct solenoid wires to see if it helps by removing the phaser advance/retard from the equation.
Good luck
J
If you don't have proper vacuum, It could be a vac line leak, air manifold leak or your cats might be clogged (exhaust back pressure).
You might be able to test for clogged cats by pulling out the o2 sensors to allow exhaust gases a path out.
To test vac or manifold leaks I hear spraying ether or some other highly combustible material around the manifold or lines will cause a surge in the idle. I've never tried it, but the reasoning sounds right.
Another thing to try is to pull the vct solenoid wires to see if it helps by removing the phaser advance/retard from the equation.
Good luck
J
03-09-2012, 08:31 AM
#90
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Richfield, Nc
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would like to thank all those with there suggestions, for 1 it has been a while working on some of the engines and with age you all know how that is with your memory lol. It is good to find a forum where people are helping one another as we all can not afford to go to the dealer and have them fix the problems we find unless it is a must. I should have a vaccum guage from when I used to race and thank god this truck does not have many vaccum lines. I did try pulling the VCT plug off the other day and there was no change but I am going to try the 0 2 sensor @ the the cat today hopefully I can get it out with no problem, and I am going to check the vaccum as well. TY