01-22-2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Issue: Is your F-150’s engine idling loudly?
The eight cylinder engines are notorious for this due to the cam phasers. For the unaware, cam phasers are responsible for adjusting the camshaft position to improve fuel injection into the cylinders, which leads to better fuel efficiency when idling and the ability to draw power from the engine more quickly. However, after anywhere from 60,000-100,000 miles, they also cause rough, loud idling due to wear and tear.
While the cause can typically be linked to the cam phasers, solutions to the problem vary widely. Some of the top recommendations include:
Read the full thread to find out which of these solutions is best for your truck.
The eight cylinder engines are notorious for this due to the cam phasers. For the unaware, cam phasers are responsible for adjusting the camshaft position to improve fuel injection into the cylinders, which leads to better fuel efficiency when idling and the ability to draw power from the engine more quickly. However, after anywhere from 60,000-100,000 miles, they also cause rough, loud idling due to wear and tear.
While the cause can typically be linked to the cam phasers, solutions to the problem vary widely. Some of the top recommendations include:
- While the noise is annoying, the cam phaser itself isn’t actually breaking. If you can live with it, your F-150 will be fine.
- If the truck is under warranty, bring it to the dealership.
- It’s possible they may need to either replace the cam phasers, or even the cam phasers and camshaft as well.
- Install a coil spring behind each cam phaser to reduce the rattle as it moves.
- Swap the cam phasers from a larger engine so that it sits more tightly, reducing the rattle.
Read the full thread to find out which of these solutions is best for your truck.
5.4L cam phasers.. What goes bad?
04-13-2012, 09:29 PM
#102
You guys need to read that thread in the 04-08 section on the final guide to fix this issue. Parts are not 1000 dollars. You can buy a timing kit with chains, guides, tensioners, and gaskets for 180 bucks and you can buy 2 phasers for like 375. This is only a 500-600 dollar parts job and can be done in under 6 hours with a good mechanic. 1000-1200 dollar job tops if done by a shop and 500-600 if you do it yourself. My phasers arnt real bad yet but my timing kit is shot, tensioners and chains are fried and under low rpms my chains clank really bad. So when I finally get to fix that im doing phasers to. Last year I put a new starter and oil pump and pan on the truck as well as exhaust manifolds so after this years fixes I should have a new truck with 112000 miles
04-15-2012, 09:16 PM
#104
05-01-2012, 11:50 AM
#105
OK, my turn....
2008 5.4 expedition.
134k miles.
Bought it from a friend that had it as a company lease vehicle for him self. We got it for next to nothing and it had just started the dreaded knock a month before we purchased it.
Got it home and changed the oil to 5w30 and put a Ford filter on it.. Knock was gone. Also changed the plugs.
Drove it for roughly 4k miles and the knock started to come back. It was up for an oil chance so I went back to 5w30 but this time the shop put a Napa filter on it. Knock is still there.
In addition, the entire time I have had the truck [roughly 5 months and 4500. miles] it has always had a rough idle and a miss between 1500-2000rpm. Beyond 2000rpm is runs smoothly.
From the research I've done, I think the phasers were redesigned in 2006 and are less prone to breaking. That leads me to believe it the VCT's BUT if I unplug them the knock is still there.
I come from a drag racing background and refuse to throw parts at a motor until it's fixed. Something is causing this issue and I want to understand what and why before I spend $$ on parts.
As I said, the knock was completely GONE after the first oil change then slowly came back at the end of the oils life. This leads me to believe it's an oil pressure issue. Yet it was NOT fixed with the second oil change. I plan on adding a ford filter to the current "fresh" oil change and see it it changes anything.
Has anyone run higher viscosity oil in their personal vehicle for long periods of time? I've read in countless places that only 5w20 should be used but I can't believe that thicker oil could hurt these motors. I'm in South FL so cold temps are NOT an issue.
Has anyone actually fixed this issue in a 2006 or newer motor?
2008 5.4 expedition.
134k miles.
Bought it from a friend that had it as a company lease vehicle for him self. We got it for next to nothing and it had just started the dreaded knock a month before we purchased it.
Got it home and changed the oil to 5w30 and put a Ford filter on it.. Knock was gone. Also changed the plugs.
Drove it for roughly 4k miles and the knock started to come back. It was up for an oil chance so I went back to 5w30 but this time the shop put a Napa filter on it. Knock is still there.
In addition, the entire time I have had the truck [roughly 5 months and 4500. miles] it has always had a rough idle and a miss between 1500-2000rpm. Beyond 2000rpm is runs smoothly.
From the research I've done, I think the phasers were redesigned in 2006 and are less prone to breaking. That leads me to believe it the VCT's BUT if I unplug them the knock is still there.
I come from a drag racing background and refuse to throw parts at a motor until it's fixed. Something is causing this issue and I want to understand what and why before I spend $$ on parts.
As I said, the knock was completely GONE after the first oil change then slowly came back at the end of the oils life. This leads me to believe it's an oil pressure issue. Yet it was NOT fixed with the second oil change. I plan on adding a ford filter to the current "fresh" oil change and see it it changes anything.
Has anyone run higher viscosity oil in their personal vehicle for long periods of time? I've read in countless places that only 5w20 should be used but I can't believe that thicker oil could hurt these motors. I'm in South FL so cold temps are NOT an issue.
Has anyone actually fixed this issue in a 2006 or newer motor?
05-19-2012, 05:46 PM
#106
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Richfield, Nc
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Here is a little tip. Mine did the same thing. Mine was a culmination of 4 things. Spark plugs, coils, 2 vacuum lines had holes and all injectors had a bunch of debris inside them. Just take off the fuel rail, unplugg the injectors, pull them out, and using a paper towel, turn upside down and tap them on the paper towel and you will see all the defrost coming out. Then reinstall them, and watch how well it runs again.
05-23-2012, 11:42 PM
#107
06-03-2012, 11:16 PM
#110
Junior Member
The driver's side is left.
There is no such thing as the left and right of a vehicle. LOL I always say passenger side and driver's side but the engine is marked left for driver's side and right for passenger side. I hope this helps. I am a technician and I would never change just one camshaft phaser in any car or truck unless a new one had gone bad and was being warranteed. They were put in together and have the same amount of drivetime. If one is bad the other one will usally follow. If you are sure they are bad then change both. Unless you want to play vicegrip games you are better off buying the camshaft holding tools, (about $120). I don't use the crank tool. I just stop the cams from spinning with the tools and use a piece of wood with a coathanger drilled through it to hold the tensioners back. If you're on a budget you can just get a valve sping compressor and remove the rocker arms before you pull the chain and hold the tensioners back with the wood block. (about 85.00 for the valve spring compressor and absolutely NO chance of bending valves if you put it together right) Make sure to take the plugs out because the engine will not spin if there is no way for air to escape