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Carrier bearing lowered truck

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Old 01-03-2018, 03:41 PM
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Got the carrier bearing done Thanks for the video JStevens311. The tie rods have about a 4 inches of gap before they hit the control arms. My steering rack looks different than yours. Without the alignment the truck rides smooth for an xlt pick up.
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Old 01-03-2018, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jersey250
Got the carrier bearing done Thanks for the video JStevens311. The tie rods have about a 4 inches of gap before they hit the control arms. My steering rack looks different than yours. Without the alignment the truck rides smooth for an xlt pick up.

that's a win for sure. glad to hear it has worked out so well.
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:02 AM
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Jersey250 glad to hear that worked for you man.
Old 02-06-2018, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JStevens311
can you message me on FB please
Bronson Sherrill I have some questions
Old 02-06-2018, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rojizostang
I have slam air bags on the back of mine also.

be aware, with the djm 3" arms and then dropping it more beyond that with whatever method, you will encounter interference with your steering linkage and the control arms. the dust covers on the steering rack on my truck are torn where they contact the arms when the suspension is compressed downward. I was unaware this could be a problem. the last time i took everything apart (to replace control arms bushings..another long story) i took a die grinder and smoothed the edge of the arms where the boots make contact to keep any more damage from occurring, but too little too late. the positive side though is that they're just dust covers, it's on the bottom of them, and no contact has been made with the steering control rods themselves.

i tried sealing the tears with self adhesive waterproof tape but it didn't hold up. also i'm not sure how long you've had the djm arms on your truck, but pay attention to the bushings. mine were over tightened and starting oozing so to speak so i replaced them.

also, if you're going lower than 3" you're probably going to need to slot the holes for the control arms perches to be able to restore enough camber, which also creates problems with keeping the front end in alignment, from a standpoint of keeping the bolts tight enough without damaging the poly bushings. slotting the holes will probably remove the little detent for the camber washers to rest in that helps keep the bolts where you want them, which is what lead me to having mine tack welded in place after alignment. this was done actually on the advice of the djm tech i spoke to about keeping the front end in alignment. I personally skipped the camber bolt kit and went for the tack weld option.

here's a random thought...i had the belltech lowering springs and struts in the front, and it was a pretty harsh ride. in addition, the struts would sometimes bottom out which is what probably led to two of them failing.....another long story...

all in all, i love the way the truck looks, drives and handles, however it has been a lot of work keeping it this low and maintaining everything sufficiently. If i were to do it again, i would probably stop at a 3" drop in the front and try to be happy with it. the next truck i buy...i'm leaving it alone...maybe......

now, out to the garage to figure out what's rattling in the front end when i turn to the right
Ive got a 2013 Screw Im gunna be installing the Belltech 979SP kit on This weekend. I am using the lowest setting on the adjustable strut. so that means 3 in front and 5 in rear with flip kit and slammed bags. Will I have any problems with the front riding like ****?? I bought my kit through Summit. so they usually warranty anything without quiestions asked. Please help. Thanks!
Old 02-06-2018, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rojizostang
you know i believe you're right, at least as far as the lower control arms are concerned. i slotted the holes when i was running the stock control arms and assumed it was still needed with the djm arms also. i didn't think that though.

if you're going a full six inches though, using drop springs and struts, you could possibly need to slot the holes, i'm not sure.

i'm going to post a couple of pics showing my ride height, plus the clearance issue with the steering control rods and boots. any method, i think, that moves the rest of the suspension lower, besides the lower arms, will cause a reduction in clearance with you steering components....this much i'm sure about. pics in a few minutes.

i forgot to mention i don't run any spring isolators also
yes the holes will need to be slotted with the factory arms and belltech struts and lowering spring.
Old 02-06-2018, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bronson Sherrill
Ive got a 2013 Screw Im gunna be installing the Belltech 979SP kit on This weekend. I am using the lowest setting on the adjustable strut. so that means 3 in front and 5 in rear with flip kit and slammed bags. Will I have any problems with the front riding like ****?? I bought my kit through Summit. so they usually warranty anything without quiestions asked. Please help. Thanks!

i'm not really sure. i never ran the belltech struts with stock springs....or i mean with stock springs that weren't shortened. most of the time i ran them with belltech lowering springs. it didn't ride bad, the shocks just bottomed out too often. probably what caused them to leak.
Old 02-06-2018, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rojizostang
i'm not really sure. i never ran the belltech struts with stock springs....or i mean with stock springs that weren't shortened. most of the time i ran them with belltech lowering springs. it didn't ride bad, the shocks just bottomed out too often. probably what caused them to leak.
so the belltech lowering spring that comes with the 979SP kit and adjustable sturt will bottom out in the front and cause it to leak?
Old 02-06-2018, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bronson Sherrill
so the belltech lowering spring that comes with the 979SP kit and adjustable sturt will bottom out in the front and cause it to leak?
i haven't looked at the kit you're talking about. I did mine in bits and pieces and wound up at one point with the 3" drop springs and belltech struts. in fact i think i even shortened the drop springs by about 1/4 coil or so. if the springs and struts you are considering are part of a kit, then i doubt you would have a bottoming problem. belltech couldn't sell them like that.

it's hard to give you a firm answer as I've had many different set ups on my truck and it's hard to remember exactly what i had and when.

if you haven't lowered your truck yet i would consider the maxtrac kit with drop spindles and lowering springs. that's what i would do if i were going to do it all over again....but that kit isn't cheap.
Old 02-06-2018, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rojizostang
i haven't looked at the kit you're talking about. I did mine in bits and pieces and wound up at one point with the 3" drop springs and belltech struts. in fact i think i even shortened the drop springs by about 1/4 coil or so. if the springs and struts you are considering are part of a kit, then i doubt you would have a bottoming problem. belltech couldn't sell them like that.

it's hard to give you a firm answer as I've had many different set ups on my truck and it's hard to remember exactly what i had and when.

if you haven't lowered your truck yet i would consider the maxtrac kit with drop spindles and lowering springs. that's what i would do if i were going to do it all over again....but that kit isn't cheap.
Ehhhh the box is 92lbs and id have to pay shipping back on that!! lol Ive looked at some pictures of truck with the same drop im doing. They look perfect. I'm not messing with control arms other then slotting the lower control arm mounting brackets. once it gets aligned I might tack weld the bolts so they don't move. other then that at the carrier bearing bracket removal and 2 holes drilled it sounds straight foward. just hope I dont run into any problems. I just hope the strut will work out. because I dont hve anyone that does lowering stuff anywhere around here. EVERYONE LIFTS trucks not lowers them. Im having to pay Ford $130 just to change out my spring and strut. Also I couldnt find anyone to install this kit that I would trust to cut my bracket, drill 2 new holes and slot the other holes and know its done right. so my buddy and I are doing it this weekend. I dont wanna go crazy low I just want my wheel setup to fill the wheel well with a tad gap. that looks the best.


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