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North Central: 1999 Ford F250 LD Lariat Ext Cab, 4WD, 5.4L, 4R100 - $6,000

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Old Dec 8, 2024 | 05:32 PM
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Default 1999 Ford F250 LD Lariat Ext Cab, 4WD, 5.4L, 4R100 - $5,000

1999 FORD F250, VIN: 1FTPX28LXXNA44895, 4 DOOR EXTENDED CAB PICKUP, 5.4L V8 PFI SOHC 16V, GASOLINE, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Please read the add completely before sending a question. E-mail questions to: snafu9t9@outlook.com

Full ad on Craigslist and Facebook. Craigslist here: https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...804034707.html

LIGHT DUTY F250, not the HEAVY DUTY.

Originally had air suspension, that has been replaced with a conventional suspension with leaf springs on the back (2200lb rated).
The truck has shorty headers and an aftermarket single pipe exhaust that is healthy sounding.
The 4R100 transmission has a Factory Tech Accumulator valve body installed.
VA inspection is good through January.

Bought truck 8 years ago as an extra vehicle and project. It had 132,470 miles on it. Put about 1000 miles on it a year. I will miss it. I did not get it to the point where I envisioned it, but it is close. For someone with time it would not take long to finish. In the Craigslist ad there is a list of all the work I know was done before I owned it (based on the CarFax report I purchased when I bought it, I can provide that), and then everything I did or had someone do to the truck. A lot has been done. When I undertook something (for example, the power steering, or transmission fluid lines) I bought all new parts and replace everything at once. I have receipts for everything, the file is 4 inches thick.

Things that need doing: I know more than the average person about cars. I have been chasing a slight hesitation on throttle tip-in for the last 2-3 years. Once the truck is warm it disappears and the truck runs beautifully. Last winter, it threw a code that a cylinder was lean, suggesting to me that replacing the intake manifold gasket should resolve the issue. That code disappeared with warmer weather. I planned to do the intake, plugs, coils, injector seals, valve cover gaskets, and flush the coolant. I have the materials for this job. There are at least two great YouTube videos on the job. Anyone could do the job following the steps in those videos. Additionally, I had planned to replace the upper and lower ball joints. I don't notice them at all, but the boots are torn off of some of them, so I figure they do need replacing.

The upper control arms have already been replaced before, so you can swap out the ball joints--you don't have to replace the entire arm. When I did the rest of the front end (see below), I bought a kit that had all four of the ball joints, so you don't need the parts. Also from that kit I have a left-over set of end links that I did not change because I have already changed them once. The automatic down part of the drivers-side window switch doesn't work. I have tried the switch and other parts in the system, but have not been able to get it to work. One wheel (on the passenger front I believe) has one broken wheel stud. I have lots of spare studs and lugs, and they are pretty easy to install. One of the front brake dust shields is missing one of the three bolts. Most people just rip these off when they rust off, but that makes the brakes squeal like crazy. Each dust shield has three bolts. The one that is missing one bolt has to have the hole drilled out and re-taped for a threaded bolt. I have the bolts, I just haven't had time to drill and tap the hole--but it would probably be fine to be left with just two.

Things that I planned to do: When I replaced the driver seat cover (with a new vinyl cover, looks like leather, but tougher) I put in the pads for heated seats. The pads for the passenger seat still need to be installed, but I have them. Also, I have a remote starter that will work with the original key fob. Again, not installed. I have two keys for the vehicle.

When I replaced the carpet (because at some point when I assume the rear window was broken (the rear window is in very good shape and is likely not original) it also pressed in a little and broke a seam seal such that a leak was created that ruined the carpet and caused me to replace it) I put in wires for heated seats on both sides, they just need to be wired into the fuse panel. As I said above, the passenger seat needs the heating pads put in, but I have them. Also, I added a transmission temperature gauge to the A-pillar on the drivers side, but I never got around to wiring it. I thought maybe someday I would have to tow and would need it, but I have never towed anything and I haven't gotten around to wiring in the sender. I have the sender, as shown by the pictures, it just needs to be installed. The truck is not bad, but it does have some rust in the standard places for these trucks, the lower parts of the doors, and behind the rear wheels. I had it cleaned up a few years ago by an amateur body person to try to keep it from getting worse. I bought three cans of RP-342 to coat the lower insides of the doors but I have not gotten around to spraying it in. The three cans will go with the truck.

It has a more recent stereo with bluetooth and a backup camera, but it does not have Apple CarPlay or Android Auto. But given it has already been changed that would be a simple upgrade. The stereo also has aftermarket speakers and fitted subwoofer enclosure that goes under the rear seat. All of this was pretty shoddily installed, so I went through and straightened out all the wires and cleaned up all the grounds, and cleaned up the wires under the hood and fastened down all the speakers securely.

This truck has the 7-lug 16-inch steel wheels, which are hard to find. I took all of mine off to grind them down and coat with POR-15. I replaced 3 (or 4) of the 5 (counting the spare)--the file would show exactly how many. The wheels are not a great design because the hubcaps trap water behind them. But given it took over 20 years for the first set to rust, the ones on it now should last the life of the truck. The tires are in very good shape. The spare does not match the brand of the rest of the tires, but it is full-size and it is new. A receipt for it is in the file. I also have a set of 17 inch aluminum wheels (I do not have the matching spare). Note that to use these you would have to buy spacers--I believe there is a place on e-bay. I wasn't in any rush to do it given the life left in the tires (and the time and energy I put into the 16-inch wheels).

I have a lot of spare parts that will go with the truck. For example, an extra gauge cluster, some interior dash pieces, a spare non-slide rear window, EGR parts, extra air filters, wipers, oil filters, everything needed to change both the front and rear gear oil on the differentials, etc.

Selling because my spouse got a new car and her old one is more suitable as a spare. Fair offers will be considered, others will be ignored. I do not have time for anyone who isn't serious, I have two children and a more-than-full-time job.

Full Service history starting in 2003 is on the Craigslist or Facebook ads.

























Last edited by snafu9t9; Jan 4, 2025 at 05:36 PM. Reason: Add e-mail address.
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Old Jan 12, 2025 | 05:28 PM
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Default Truck is sold.

Truck is sold.
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