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What did you do to your 10th gen today?

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Old 01-17-2019, 03:03 PM
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Now I've got a knocking sound when I give it gas. I freakin Rock.

..edit, it might have went away, lol. It didn't sound like Rod knock. It's an Odd sound, something I haven't heard before, almost like an front accessory. If it comes back again I'll take a video.

I hate this truck. Or rather I hate that I can't just snap my fingers and make it a new Raptor, haha

Last edited by Wolvee; 01-17-2019 at 03:54 PM.
Old 01-17-2019, 05:55 PM
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All is good for now. Tomorrow I check for leaks. ..I could have made a thread, lol.

Last edited by Wolvee; 01-18-2019 at 12:42 AM.
Old 01-17-2019, 10:25 PM
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Truck has been sitting at the shop all week. Working on the winch bumper currently.
Old 01-18-2019, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Hi Wolvee. If it's a through hole, you can get that without removal. So the rail bolts must be self tappers...that's weak lol.
The Dorman intake I put on a 3V came with self tappers for the injector rails, PCV, and the IMCV's.

Made me so happy my own truck has a metal intake, LOL.
Old 01-18-2019, 04:08 PM
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A few days back I found a thread you guys were talking about the aluminum 99 intake and I really thought about sourcing one but I thought getting the truck back together was more important for now. After the winter I'm finally going to go through with a full forged longblock build unless the Lord drops a Raptor and a F1 Procharger in my garage, lol.

A few years back I started a 4v 5four build but called it a bust after my Machine shop managed to toast my heads. For the power and price point the 2v will probably workout better anyway unless some other patriot paves the golden road for me with a Coyote swap and the 4R70. :0)
Old 01-18-2019, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolvee
That hole is a defect of some sort where it's larger than the threads of the screw that's supposed to go there. The starter hole is supposed to be about half the size and goes all the way through. I could have drilled it out with my 90* adapter and probably had plenty of bite I'd rather not deal with it. Also, If they missed that, maybe they missed something else, it's already a down grade from the start.

The Ford manifold I took off was really messy and dirty, much nastier than the top side of the motor. After looking it over I didn't want to risk putting it all back together just to miss a hairline crack. I'll take pictures of it and the gaskets today and post them. There was no height left on the rubber part of the gasket and it looked like it was just plastic on plastic mating the heads & intake together. I'll throw the ford intake onto a shelf in the shop and look it over one day when I feel like making a pressure tester for it.

Which LT's did you end up installing?
So you swapped dormans then I take it. I probably would cleaned up 03 mani after receiving the dorman, -if it seemed cheap. The 03 manifolds wern't known cracking, they had the improved composite formulation. However, I might be wrong, but I could swear someone cracked an 03 in the past. Maybe not. Didin't you say your old manifold was from an 03 ?

I guess the most important thing for me (a lot of been there done that moments lol) would be the dormans mating surface on the head side, -has to be flat and true. Also incorporating Ford only gaskets, -that's the only sure way to get the correct revision. And they should be purchased through dealer. Reason being, you want to avoid old stock. Ford had so many gasket revisions, it was getting to be a joke. They finally got it good enough, but you need the right gasket revision. They had to thicken the gasket material since there wasn't a material that withstand or last that long in place. Some last revision gaskets are actually thicker on one side vs the other. Looks goofy, not right, but it's what's needed if you want longevity and a good seal.

What you said above was the problem. Any you removed a manifold from a 4six/5four the manifold gasket would look smashed in the front (around the water jackets) , material missing, excreta... Aluminum heads/manifolds would suffer electrolysis type corrosion at the jackets regardless of proper maintenance and proper grounding. Going to a composite helped some, but the heads would still corrode around the jackets with enough time....to the extent of needing repair. Ford was aware of every bit of the problem, made it a little better but it wasn't nothing they could solve completely.What that means for us, you have to nothing but the correct gaskets and follow procedure and torque stages....adding another torque stage isn't a bad idea. It's champion for sure lol.

There's been countless who have done this job twice in the past, most will need a torque wrench in this job...at least in the end/final stage. That's probably the most common screw up, not staging torque and not prepping surfaces. Can't have fingerprint of gaskets or mating surfaces lol
Old 01-18-2019, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolvee
All is good for now. Tomorrow I check for leaks. ..I could have made a thread, lol.
Not having lean codes is a good sign lol.
Old 01-18-2019, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
The Dorman intake I put on a 3V came with self tappers for the injector rails, PCV, and the IMCV's.

Made me so happy my own truck has a metal intake, LOL.
Yea, I haven't heard that much about the dormans being that cheap. Here and there I guess. From what I recall at first, they had great reviews..no complaints. There's been a few now that said they really aren't that great. I guess it's the cheap option that you can get to work. But self tappers, - couldn't they at least use inserts and machine screws ?? Yea that's cheap, you'll have to baby self tappers....they strip out, then what ? More time, that's harassment lol.
Old 01-18-2019, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolvee
A few days back I found a thread you guys were talking about the aluminum 99 intake and I really thought about sourcing one but I thought getting the truck back together was more important for now. After the winter I'm finally going to go through with a full forged longblock build unless the Lord drops a Raptor and a F1 Procharger in my garage, lol.

A few years back I started a 4v 5four build but called it a bust after my Machine shop managed to toast my heads. For the power and price point the 2v will probably workout better anyway unless some other patriot paves the golden road for me with a Coyote swap and the 4R70. :0)
Patman over on f150online is swapping one into a 2wd screw. A little different than the 4x4 frame but same idea. Do a cable lock front axle actuator and a manual transfer case and you could pretty much follow him step by step.
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Old 01-23-2019, 07:27 PM
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Finished up and installed the trans crossmember.

Last edited by Collin; 01-23-2019 at 07:30 PM.


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