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Will do.. No, actually, I just got this scan tool, all fancy shmancy, XTOOL D7!!!! whatever that means. I don't know how to clear the codes. I figured if I did a scan, while the truck is running, it would bring up stuff that it picks up during the testing. Does it still display old codes? Even when you run a new scan?
Page 11 shows the screen with the button, "Clear trouble code". Just push it, it will clear all of the old codes. Then "Read trouble code" again to see which problems remain. Page 12 describes more.
04-08-23 Scan Codes P0113 (I changed the sensor with a junkyard find today. I don't think it was even registering before) P1537 P1538 P0133 P0141 P0401 P0171 P0174 P1000 P1127 P1408 P1116
Last edited by OldManOldTruck; Apr 8, 2023 at 07:04 PM.
I see Live Data on your options screen. The two lean codes, P0171 and P0174, are commonly caused by the isolator bolt grommets losing their compression force, allowing the intake gasket to leak. If that's the case you should see the lean condition go away if you put your weight on the top of the intake manifold. I've never tried it but it should work. You'll need to choose short term fuel trims and watch those while you press on the manifold.
Looks like you might be able to record data also. So you can set it up, get it recording, do some experiments, then go back and check what happened.
I don't know how I would get my weight on it. Could I use like bricks or something? Is this something that would show up in a smoke test? Is it something that holds vacuum, like could a vacuum test be good?
It's just something that would be worth a try. A big brick might work. The other option is to spray a small amount of carb cleaner on the underside of the intake manifold and watch fuel trims.
Freeze frame data is a really good clue though. The gasket leaks are usually worse when cold then clear up when the engine gets warm. A hose leak will stay the same cold or warm. Check the freeze frame.
For P1537/38 I recommend to check the bushings for the IMRC actuators, they are behind the lower intake manifold by the firewall. You can use a mirror to check and i read that you can install them without removing the intake. The picture is from a windstar but should be similar to yours.
this guy replaced the purge valve and according to him and many comments that solved the codes. It's my understanding that if the valve is stuck open it can throw different codes including P0171/74. To check it with the engine running disconnect the connector and the hose going to the manifold and feel for suction, use your finger or a piece of paper. Or remove it completely and blow some air thru one opening and if you can feel it coming out on the other opening then it's stuck open.
I found an instrument cluster with an RPM gauge in the yard a couple of days ago and bought it. Mine didn't have that gauge. It seems to be working fine, except there are no lights. A few of the small ones, that show the seat belt, abs, check engine, etc are working. But at night there is no illumination at all. I couldn't find out much about the actual bulbs other than the sizes (T5 and T10) and discussions about switching to led. But I did see one video of a guy doing the same cluster swap that I did. He said (and showed) that you could just do a continuity test on the individual bulbs. I tried doing that, but I was never able to get a reading showing continuity regardless of which bulb I tried. Finally, I pulled some from my old cluster and started testing those and found one that wasn't burt looking and did pass the continuity test. I mainly was just trying to satisfy in my own mind that the test was legit. So, I guess that means that ALL of the bigger bulbs which do the actual illumination of the panel are burnt out. I ordered some and will try them out to see if that does the trick or not. I did also pull the fuse just out of curiosity, which looked fine. Plus, I'm assuming that if any of the cluster bulbs worked at all, regardless of size, that must mean the fuse is working so it has to be a bunch of burnt out bulbs. Just seems weird that all of them would be burnt out. I guess it's possible. The speedometer on the new cluster is like 244k. I don't know if those bulbs were ever replaced or not, but the new ones are coming from Bezos this week. So, we'll see. I'm holding onto my old cluster until I'm confident I won't need it again, then I'll probably put it on Ebay and try to earn enough to pay for my yard pull.
These gauges are analog of course. Like the battery / volt gauge goes from 8 to 18 and you have to guess what the actual number is based on where it lands between the two. From it's positioning, less than half way between 8 and 18, I'm guessing that it would read around 11 - 11.5, which is low, right? Should probably be above 12 while driving down the road? The temperature gauge remains very steady at about 1/4. The oil pressure reads about 3/4. They all get to their spots and pretty much stay there and they always go to the same readings every time.
Last edited by OldManOldTruck; Apr 10, 2023 at 07:58 PM.
