V10 spark plug change(beating a dead horse)
 

Alright guys I've got a question. I recently bought a 2001 F-250 with the 6.8L 2V w/ 173,000 miles. From my understanding, the 6.8L is pretty much a 5.4L with two extra cylinders slapped on.

I also have a 2000 4.6L w/ 101,000 miles. I'm planning on doing spark plugs on both motors. I'm wondering what the current thought of torque specs and anti-seize are? Only reason I'm asking is the guys on the F-250 forums seem pretty adamant about using 16ft-lbs. and anti seize w/ maybe one or two guys using more torque to prevent blowouts. The guys on here(at least a few years ago) were pretty adamant w/ no anti-seize and around 28 ft-lbs. They seem to be the same motor so... Yeah

To add confusion to the whole anti-seize thing: Many plug manufacturers (NGK, Champion, AC Delco, etc.) recommend not using anti-seize at all. Then some vehicle manufacturers go and recommend using anti-seize...

The responses I hear to this are:

1) Never use anti-seize. Listen to the plug manufacturers. You can over torque your plugs
You can under torque your plugs. Your car will run horrible. Your car will run better. I even saw one dude say anti-seize made removing his plugs harder...

2) use anti-seize anyway. the plug companies are just covering their own butts. Over torquing is a myth I had to deal with a stuck plug and don't want to do it again.

Obviously lots of conflicting data here. So what do you think? More torque or spec torque? Anti-seize or no anti-seize? Are the specs for the 4.6L, 5.4L V8s the same for the V10?


Of course I'd only use Motorcraft plugs on a Ford.(no one's changing my mind on this one)

I've been going with 28 ft/lbs and no anti-sieze and have yet to have any sort of problem with changing them or them getting loose on their own.

Right, 4six, 5four, and 6eight = same head designs....identical, just plus 2 on your engine.

Absolutely no anti-seize. That's a compression washer plug thing, with dead stop plugs. O2 sensors on our trucks are dead stop/compression designs...for comparison.
We have a tapered plug design. Incorporating anti-seize you have to reduce torque X 38% in general. Not adhering to that is how plugs get over-torqued and why they leak when working in anti -seize. Anti-seize cannot be used with our tapered/minimal thread designs. Without further explanation I'll say this, - If you really want to screw things up, use anti-seize. If you own a older Vette, anti seize is a GOOD idea. Not for these engines though.

Torque 28' lbs was modified by qualified engineers. That released info was a benefit for use as it permanently fixed the problem. This documentation can be found on line @ BSP.

Yes you can over torque a plug. 28' lbs won't compromise the seal. It's more how you apply torque. Can't do it recklessly or you can crack the porcelain. So it's more important to keep centered on the plug when torquing down. It's when you deviate from center that the porcelain is more prone to cracking.

28' lbs dry :thumbsup:

I like to keep things simple.
I change plugs/boots at 50k, use nickel antiseize and dielectric grease, torque to 25 ft-lbs.
Plugs, Motorcraft SP479, and boots, Denso 671-0001, can be found at Rock Auto or ebay for under $60/10 total.
Pickup 2 Denso COPs (673-6000 $26.49/ea) and OBD code readers (Amazon, OBD2 Scanner OBDII MS300 $13.95/ea) for each car so if you have a misfire on a trip you can try to fix it.
Have not used my spares, yet.

Go with the TSB specs. 28# per plug, Without anti-Seize. With only 3-4 threads per plug hole, you don't want to pull them out with over torquing, and anti-seize makes 28# quite a bit more. Not a good thing with these heads.

You won't strip the threads out at 28 ft-lbs.
There's a guy over on another forum that took a junk set of 4 thread heads and did a test.
He torqued the plugs to over 100 ft-lbs and the plugs broke, no stripped threads.
The plugs will loosen after many heat cycles which is how steel in aluminum works.
The eight thread heads and the new 3v heads will blow plugs, too, it just takes more cycles.
The antiseize is more to prevent galling the aluminum threads, so use tiny amounts and always use a torque wrench.

The 100' lbs is correct, but that wasn't from some mysterious guy on some forum. That came from the engineers over at BSP.

Other than that, your post is half ass/misleading and for the most part incorrect.

Sorry, but you don't know what your talking about...let pass on GOOD info ehh.

:thumbsup:

R&T, not to be rude, I'll try to explain, the anti seize part anyway, -

There isn't a formula you can use for these plugs/heads for incorporating anti- seize. Your only dealing with 3 or 4 14mm threads...these are fairly coarse threads. Anti seize compounds or adds to the torque value. Depending on the fastener, - I've seen anywhere from 20% to as much as a 46 or 48% reduction in torque values IME... which is specific to the application btw. For an application like this, taking everything in consideration, the compounded torque value could be ridicules.

Keep in mind, and yes, just about any lubricant will prevent galling to a degree. But, there's no way you are going to gall these threads dry. There isn't enough clamping force involved for the material in play.

However, -If you load up these 3 or 4 threads with just about any anti-seize product made for these materials, your forcing more material between the threads, tiny shavings of metal. Quite a bit of it with the chamber threads in question. That 100' lbs of strength is decreased (I don't have a figure by how much, just that it is) and a good guess would be that your more doubling your torque value with this SPECIFIC application. With these threads it wouldn't take much anti-seize to off set values.

Spark plug manufacturers no longer recommended anti-seize to prevent seizing. Jeez, it's been this way for a long time. It's why they don't post a 'wet' value. I don't think you can find that anywhere. Long life plating totally eliminates the problem.

The heads in these trucks are special. Thankfully BSP figured it out professionally and as it turned out, a simple fix. 28' lbs dry.

There was a user called TwinnTipps. Attempted to find that old thread for more details. The only user I've seen that stripped all 8 plug chambers during a plug change. I can't recall the specifics, I'm pretty sure he combined 28' lbs with anti-seize and that was the result. Yea user name twinntips and it was a blue gen 10 F150. If anyone feels like searching lol.

28 lb ft dry is the only way to fly.

Hey, that kinda rhymes.

28' lbs dry is better than a plug in the eye.

That kinda does too.