themerc

I own a 2001 Ford F-150 XLT with manual transmission. Nice truck. I bought the vehicle about 3 weeks ago with 173,000 miles on it and have systematically been replacing all fluids, hoses, filters, etc. Today I am replacing the PCV hose assembly - the valve cover rubber grommet and hoses were cracking and hard as rocks. In about a week I plan to replace the u-joints. So I go to the Ford dealer and ask about the u-joint drive shaft bearings. They took the VIN and said there were two sizes that Ford trucks actually came with matching my VIN (that was not reassuring) - they were not sure which size I had - they only still sell one of the two sizes. I got under the truck and took an inside micrometer and measured 1-1/16" - that happens to match one of the sizes the Ford dealer mentioned. I plan to purchase the two u-joints at my local AutoZone. So here goes: (1) It makes sense to get the 1-1/16" u-joints? Right? The other size is 1.06" diameter. (2) Has anyone have any experience with pulling this drive shaft and replacing the u-joints? What problems did you have? (3) One of the techs kept telling me to replace the "output shaft bearing and seal". Huh? There is no oil leaking from the boot (what I would possibly call the transmission boot or seal) at the drive shaft stub - I was just going to pull out the drive shaft and replace the two u-joints. Background: This is a one piece drive shaft - just two u-joints. The u-joints are dry as a bone - no grease fittings. The former owner kept good records - they are original. Everything on the truck was changed as it broke. The only preventative maintenance the owner had his mechanic do was oil changes every 4000 to 7500 miles. About 20,000 miles ago the clutch was rebuilt. There are a litany of repairs done: A/C compressor, ball joints, etc. - so maintenance as it broke was done. Your constructive thoughts are appreciated.

Maxwell

I am working with my u-joints right now actually. The driveshaft came off easily. Just make sure you mark it so everything goes back on the same way. Don't want any vibrations.

My u-joints appeared to be the originals as well and were completely dried up. They came out with a fair bit of pounding.

Pretty straightforward procedure. I'm sure more guys will chime in.

themerc

How many miles on your truck? Did you measure the diameter of the bearings (u-joints)? What were the dimensions? I appreciate your comment.

Maxwell

I've got about 139k on my 98.

Upon further inspection of the u-joints they both are the same size. The one only appeared to be longer because of the needle bearings being out of whack and not allowing the cap to seat fully.

I measured them to be about 9.2cm from cap end to end and the cap diameter to be just about 3cm.

themerc

The 3cm cap diameter seems to fit what I measured as well - about 1-1/16" in English units. This is very helpful info confirmation - I can pick up the two u-joints and be 92% sure they'll work first time now! Thanks Max.

Maxwell

No problem boss. Good luck with your new u-joints!

Best idea is to just take your originals in with you when you buy the new ones to be 100% sure. I didn't do that the first time and they gave me the wrong size.

themerc

U-joint update! All done with changing out the two u-joints. The Ford dealer actually ordered a commercial u-joint (non-Ford OEM) that saved me over $100. It took about 4 hours to change both out, but I saved myself hard cash (about $180 in labor) and got the middle son up to speed on how to press out and in bearings. The biggest challenge is the torque requirements for the 4 rear axle flange bolts - 75 to 90 ft-lbs. What a pain that was when you're doing it underneath the truck just on blocks.

Maxwell

Good work merc! You can't beat the feeling of doing the work yourself and saving some cash.

I wish my dad woulda taught me how to do stuff like that!