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Trucks runs great, then runs horrible

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Old 04-09-2013, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by wiz
Oh, and I should have also mentioned... many times first thing in the morning when I start the truck, it runs perfect without a misfire.. .for about 1-2 minutes until I get driving and then it progressively gets worse until I can't give it much gas without the whole truck shuddering. I have to be very easy with the gas and get the rpms up to even drive.
This is called a open loop your o2 sensors have to be at a certain temp before your computer takes over
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:17 AM
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These were the codes:

p1131
p0171

I am getting 32 lbs. with the regulator hose attached, and 40 lbs. if I disconnect it.

Yes, I do have coil packs (pretty sure).

*I am not a mechanic, so just learning this stuff lol
Old 04-09-2013, 11:20 AM
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The other thing I'll add is this... it SEEMS the issue is with the #3 and #4 cylinders. I say this bc when I take the injector plug off those cylinders, it makes the truck run worse, but not as bad as if I take the injector plugs off the other cylinders. I hope that makes sense. The #3 and #4 plugs were fouled when I changed them.

Also, I know I originally said the issue started after running it low on fuel (not out of gas), but I'm not convinced that was the problem, although it seems the obvious problem at the time. I think this truck had a lot of issues and many of them reared their head like a domino effect.

Last edited by wiz; 04-09-2013 at 11:27 AM.
Old 04-09-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by wiz
The other thing I'll add is this... it SEEMS the issue is with the #3 and #4 cylinders. I say this bc when I take the injector plug off those cylinders, it makes the truck run worse, but not as bad as if I take the injector plugs off the other cylinders. I hope that makes sense. The #3 and #4 plugs were fouled when I changed them.

Also, I know I originally said the issue started after running it low on fuel (not out of gas), but I'm not convinced that was the problem, although it seems the obvious problem at the time. I think this truck had a lot of issues and many of them reared their head like a domino effect.
I agree with the issues statement. Check out this site for your codes obdcodes.com it will give you symtoms/causes/ and possible solutions to fix your problems
Old 04-09-2013, 11:34 AM
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What if I AM leaking around the new exhaust manifolds or something? Could that cause this? I put them on myself, so maybe? It doesn't sound like anything is leaking there, it's fairly quiet... the entire exhaust there is just a very small leak in the back behind all the cats and sensors where I attached the new stuff to the old muffler. And no, there isn't any antifreeze coming out of the exhaust either.

I'm going to look up how to test the IAC.
Old 04-09-2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by wiz
What if I AM leaking around the new exhaust manifolds or something? Could that cause this? I put them on myself, so maybe? It doesn't sound like anything is leaking there, it's fairly quiet... the entire exhaust there is just a very small leak in the back behind all the cats and sensors where I attached the new stuff to the old muffler. And no, there isn't any antifreeze coming out of the exhaust either.

I'm going to look up how to test the IAC.
take the IAC off leave it plugged in. cover the hole on the intake elbow with something I made a little piece of metal. then let the truck idle and see it the iac is moving. its only $34 from oreillys. so I would just replace it instead of trying to clean it.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:44 AM
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HOW TO TEST YOUR IAC VALVE



1 See if the "check engine" light is on. If it is, use an OBD II scanner for 1996 and newer vehicles to retrieve the codes. Like General Motors, if the codes are P505 to P509, you have a problem with the idle control system.
If your car is older than a '96, you need a regular OBD scanner. You may get codes 12, 13, 16, 17, or 19, which indicates your idle is wrong. Sometimes codes 47 or 48 appear, which indicates an air leak.

2 Turn the car off and unplug the IAC (idle air control) solenoid if any of the codes mentioned above are found.

3 Restart the engine and check if the idle RPM has dropped. If there's no change in the idle speed, the solenoid has a problem.

4 Use an ohm meter to check the solenoid by attaching the positive lead to the VPWR (vehicle power pin) and the negative lead to the IAC pin.
Your resistance reading should be between 7.0 ohms and 13.0 ohms. If your reading is off, your IAC solenoid is bad.


if you still want to clean it let me know. I have an article to paste if you want it.

Last edited by ColtRice17; 04-09-2013 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:45 PM
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Ok, I got the IAC confused with something else. There is a small box that has a hose from the EGR tube and another hose attached at the bottom... there are two bolts that hold this to the throttle body and it also has a plug... what is this thing? Unplugging it seems to have no effect. Maybe I can post a picture.
Old 04-09-2013, 12:51 PM
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this thing... I found it is a DPFE sensor
Attached Thumbnails Trucks runs great, then runs horrible-p1080325.jpg  

Last edited by wiz; 04-09-2013 at 12:56 PM.
Old 04-09-2013, 12:53 PM
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When I unplug the IAC, the truck dies right down almost to a stall

I'm going to test the DPFE sensor like this http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/34...fe-sensor.html

Last edited by wiz; 04-09-2013 at 12:58 PM.


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