blupupher

iTrader: (2)

I debated tranny fluid, but I figure PB Blaster loosened them up, motor oil will lube better than ATF, so I used that.

Tomorrow I am going to buy some new plugs and a breaker bar (I only have a 1/2 drive ratchet, can't get a lot of leverage with it).

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

OK, it turns over pretty good now. Yea!

I put new plugs in today and got it all back together. I used Autolite plugs. I know, Motorcraft plugs only, but I want to get the truck running and these plugs may foul due to all the stuff I put into the cylinder. Why spend more for a short time.

Went to start it and it will not run. It turns over now but no go. It sounded like it fired once or twice right when I first tried, but nothing now, just turns over.

Remember this truck has not been started for over 6 months, not driven in around a year. I know it has old gas (has about 1/4 tank in it), I added about 2 gallons of fresh gas I had for the mower (not gonna do much I know). I tried some starting fluid in the intake, but not sure how well that does on a fuel injected vehicle.
Battery is dead again, so it is on the charger, will play with it again in the morning.

Any suggestions? One of the things about COP I hate is it is hard to easily check for spark on each cylinder.

Mattro21

Was it sitting in grass I know this sounds super Redneck but I had a 97 that wouldn't start just turned over and over and over I could power everything at the relay box with a power probe and it would fire so I thought bad relays but tested them and some how they tested good opened them up and they were full of **** ants cleaned them out and she fired right up!!

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

Was on a cement driveway all the time.
It does have a few wasps nests in it and several dirt dauber nests, but I have already checked that, nothing there. Thanks for the info though.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

Got it to start yesterday!

Only thing is it only runs for maybe 5-8 seconds then dies. But it is a start.

In order to get it to start, I have to hold the gas pedal all the way down, turn the key to start and then slowly let off the pedal and it will start. It runs at around 2500-3000 rpm's and then starts dropping and dies. I can give it gas and it runs for maybe 5 seconds more and still dies. It is not perfectly smooth, and does backfire sometimes. The check engine light is on while running but I don't have a code scanner (I really need to get one).
Knowing the codes would really help but no way for me to do it since it is not drivable. I have a mechanic friend with one, maybe he would let me borrow it?
I am thinking it is either the old gas, IAC, TPS, bad vacuum line or a combo of some/all.

Fuel is at least a year old if not older, and is e-10 on top of that.
Debating draining it or adding about 5 gallons of super unleaded to see if that helps.
I will take a look at all my vacuum lines. If I can't get the code reader, may just pull the IAC and clean it. Seems the TPS is not cleanable, just replace?

rcruz3568

Drain the old gas. Just remove ur fuel filter and stick the hose in a gas jug and drain the old gas into the jug by turning ur key on and off.... Takes a while but saves u from dropping the tank. (if u tap power into ur fuel pump wires u can make it run constant but if u dont know which one it is just turn ur key on and off). Or u can undo the filler neck from the tank and stick a hose down in there siphon it out.... But I would drain the gas as its probably a main problem. Trying to burn that old gas.

SR2K

If you want to jump the fuel pump, its the Pink/black wire for positive and black is ground.

rcruz3568

I wasn't gonna tell him this because if he doesn't know 100 percent sure what he needs to do it could be more harmful than good. Lol not being a jerk but sometimes helpful information can lead to other problems. Was just letting him know if he knew how that it could make it faster.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys. rcruz, I totally understand what your saying, don't want to cause harm.
I do have basic electrical knowledge so jumping the wire so long as I know which one and where it is is not an issue (I was searching earlier on how to do it just in case).
I probably need to change the fuel filter anyway.

On another note, I got it running and staying running (albeit running like crap, but it is not dying).
I did not know these engines liked having every thing in the intake hooked back up (I had the elbow thing from the intake to the air filter off still). I am going out of town for a few days and just wanted to get everything together before I left so I put it on and tried starting it again.
Started without me mashing on the gas pedal and stayed running. Idle is around 900 rpm after it warmed up, but it is very sluggish with the throttle and is running very rough when I rev it or put the A/C on (it died once with the A/C on also, but started right back up).
I did drive it down the street and around the corner and it drives, but has no get up and go. It also has a horrible knock under acceleration (I was figuring it would after the lock up issue it had).

I dumped a bottle of Techron in it that I had (got a BOGO from Advance Auto a while back) and let it idle for about 20 minutes hoping to get a little to the injectors.
When I get back from my trip I may just drive to the Exxon near here (about a mile away) and add about 8-10 gallons of super unleaded (aside from the tow it will be the most I have spent on the truck so far @ $3.79/gallon for super) and try to improve the gas quality and drive it around a bit more. I may still clean the IAC since the engine has 167,000 miles on it.

rcruz3568

Pour a bottle of sea foam in that dude if u wanna run it out lol. I use sea foam often. Pour bout 2 bottles in it. I do it when I get ahold of some bad gas. Seems to help it a lot.