Jbrew

LOL, I was thinking in the opposite direction

Driving wise, I don't mind helping.

escodsm

crap!

thanks.

Next mission is buying a laser thermometer. Will update!

escodsm

OK someone rap to me about the brake booster and how it has been a source of vac leaks. I never would have thought about looking at that component.

I did replace three rubber fittings on the passenger side - two were on each side of a T and one was over on the left tucked under the starter solenoid. The original rubber fittings were split open. Fixing these did have a minor improvement at idle.

Jbrew, I ordered a wifi obd2 adapter. I don't see Torque Pro for iOS, any recommendations?
I think my o2s are dead, but amazed they could both go at the same time.
The volts in the live data on my simple OTC mini scanner never changed more than 5 thousandths for all o2 sensors (4).

I still think something ahead of the o2s is causing it. So I'm also ordering an IAC valve. And calling a shop for the plug change.

escodsm

Also Jbrew I am not that other user, although my symptoms are the same or very similar. Lol

But I would like to hear your answer for this that you deleted ha

Jbrew

When it's cold, your 02's aren't in charge (open loop). Once you go into closed loop while it warms up, your O2's are in charge. This is when you having problems right? Had I known...you didn't post that info in the past, that's why I kept telling you to get that plug fixed, just in case (if you cracked it working on it, same thing can happen. Anyway that's why I wasn't willing to stop over and help earlier, well, plus the distance is an issue as well. And, you have to sign an agreement, I have the form in print...you would sign promise to go watch TV while I work lol. Nah , jk.

Anyway, you might want to check your O2 harness out first. You'll smoke an O2 (s) as soon as you plug it or them in and turn the key. Make sure you don't have any shorts. You can check ohms/continuity from one side to the other, or check outputs to be sure. If you smoke one, they usually let you return once, so get them from other places each time, until you get it worked.

I'm going to wait until you at least take care of some of this stuff, your leaving stuff broken and moving on so, getting way ahead, when it's broke fix it, then move on man.

Carcrazygts2

Theres actually a TSB about the o2's causing this exact issue.

escodsm

Should I invest in this here "mitchell1" repair manual from snap-on?

edit: I did it. I bought a year subscription. Anyone on here need anything from it, let me know!

One of the TSBs for my issue (exhaust>heated O2 sensors) mentioned unplugging my MAF, which I did. Truck still drives like crap (obviously) but the stalling/stumble is gone.
Wonder if it was just my MAF all along?

escodsm

Update

In addition to the Mitchell1 subscription, I bought a bluetooth OBDII ELM and Dash Command for my old iPad. Impressed with the amount of data I can get now.

I checked my O2 voltage. Looked good, on the graph went up and down constantly like it's supposed to. However there was another line of the graph which did not. When I applied throttle, this line would react and move up, then at idle it would drop off like a cliff. I'll have to do more research into that.

Other weirdness to report: if I turn the ignition to ACC but dont crank the engine...after a couple of seconds, there is a sound from the front (or underneath?) which I can only describe as a "PUNNNG" (go ahead, say it)
It is very low pitched and I think it may be the fuel pump.

I'm going to bite the bullet and have a shop do these plugs. I don't have the time to keep effing with them - and if #7 is a sign as to the condition of the others, I don't have the patience either.

Codes that my little OTC mini scanner could not read, Dash Command read:

P1401 DPFE EGR Circuit High (see P0406)
P1131 Lack of heated O2S11 Switches - sensor indicates lean (see P2195)
P1151 Lack of heated O2S21 Switches - sensor indicates lean (see P2197)

So how come the graph for my O2's looked healthy (up and down, up and down)?

This P1401 came up the day I looked at the truck. I did not replace the DPFE but I did replace the lines going to it.

escodsm

Update

Replaced DPFE with new unit. Also, instead of using random vac lines and windshield washer line for the DPFE I bought lines specifically made for the DPFE. I only bought it because the resistance, when tested with my DMM, was 0.00 and never changed.
With the new one installed, the idle is much better, and I even saw the RPMs *increase* at idle. However, driving under load produced the same ol' ****ty result.

Spark plugs:
I called a shop in town that has a great rep, but I could tell by the words the owner used that he didn't want to touch my Ford. Quoting $2000 for a plug change, to me, means they don't want to do it/have other work to do. I stressed that it's the 2v version, where the plugs dont break, but he wasn't hearing it. "What if I have to pull the heads?" - this guy works on a Ford fleet of commercial vehicles. So he's playing games with me.

EGR:
I tested the EGR by looping the lower vac line on the EGR solenoid, up to the nipple on the EGR valve, with engine on this nearly stalled the truck so I know the EGR valve is OK.

MAF:
After I replaced the DPFE and drove it, I had the MAF plugged back in. TEsting on my new Dash Command showed over 450 Baro (kPa) for something titled MAP. I know this truck doesn't use Manifold pressure, so I am not sure what this reading is exactly.
Hell, I'm just going to buy a junkyard MAF cheap and see if there's any difference.

With the MAF unplugged the truck almost runs normally.

Anyone have an idea what this "MAP" pid could be for a 10th gen F150? And why I am getting way over 450 kPa for whatever it is?

Aragorn

This stuck out to me, if it runs almost normally with the MAF disconnected it indicates something with the MAF. As for buying one from pick n pull you could do that but unless they test it (which the one near me doesn't) you may still be in the same situation.

How to test at MAF - use at your own risk.

Edit: As for the plug change the mechanic that did my tank (who undercut everyone on price) wanted 300$ to do the plugs on mine.