Truck makes a weird ticking sound when I accelerate
03-17-2010, 12:12 PM
#11
Senior Member
Where the manifolds come down to the H pipe, that is where they leak the most. You can see them without getting under your truck also if you look in your wheel wells.
03-17-2010, 04:20 PM
#12
Member
Top 4 NVH (Noise,Vibration,Harshness) Concerns I Have Repaired At The Dealership Due To Ticking With Acceleration On The 4.6L & 5.4L
1) #8 Spark Plug Threads Stripped In Cylinder Head
2) Exhaust Leak Between A) Cylinder Head & Manifold, B) Collector/Donut Gasket At 3 Bolt Mounting Flange
3) Stuck Valve Tappet Holding Air & Not Circulating Engine Oil
4) Excessive Play/Slack In Connecting Rod Wrist Pin
Diagnosis
Scenario #1 : Unfortunately there is no proper diagnostic procedure for this issue. Eventually it will blow the spark plug out and you will know when it happens. You will have a very loud sound as if you are running open headers due to the combustion leaving the spark plug hole and not the exhaust manifold.
Scenario #2 : Look for any black dis-coloration around the manifolds and collector flange's. The black residue will be very evident against the rust build up on these components, and is due to the CO/HC/NOX (Carbon Monoxide/Hydro Carbons/Nitrates Of Oxygen exhaust gasses) being released. This is the same residue that you find inside the tips of your exhaust pipe(s).
Scenario #3 : Using a mechanics stethoscope listen to the valve train with the engine running. You will do this by placing the tip on top of the valve cover, moving front to rear, listening for any increase in noise. If you do not have a stethoscope, many subsitutes are readily available around the house/garage. You can use a screwdriver, 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet extention, wooden hammer handle, anything that is solid and straight. You will place one end of your make shift stethoscope on the valve cover, the other end you will need to grip the object with the bottom of your hand, make a fist, but leave an circular opening with your index finger and thumb. This will create a "cup" that will allow you to place your ear against and listen for any increase in noise.
Scenario #4 : Using a mechanics stethoscope listen to the oil pan with the engine running. You will do this by placing the tip on the side of the oil pan, moving front to rear, listening for any increase in noise. If you do not have a stethoscope, many subsitutes are readily available around the house/garage. You can use a screwdriver, 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet extention, wooden hammer handle, anything that is solid and straight. You will place one end of your make shift stethoscope on the oil pan, the other end you will need to grip the object with the bottom of your hand, make a fist, but leave an circular opening with your index finger and thumb. This will create a "cup" that will allow you to place your ear against and listen for any increase in noise.
I hope you find this helpful.
1) #8 Spark Plug Threads Stripped In Cylinder Head
2) Exhaust Leak Between A) Cylinder Head & Manifold, B) Collector/Donut Gasket At 3 Bolt Mounting Flange
3) Stuck Valve Tappet Holding Air & Not Circulating Engine Oil
4) Excessive Play/Slack In Connecting Rod Wrist Pin
Diagnosis
Scenario #1 : Unfortunately there is no proper diagnostic procedure for this issue. Eventually it will blow the spark plug out and you will know when it happens. You will have a very loud sound as if you are running open headers due to the combustion leaving the spark plug hole and not the exhaust manifold.
Scenario #2 : Look for any black dis-coloration around the manifolds and collector flange's. The black residue will be very evident against the rust build up on these components, and is due to the CO/HC/NOX (Carbon Monoxide/Hydro Carbons/Nitrates Of Oxygen exhaust gasses) being released. This is the same residue that you find inside the tips of your exhaust pipe(s).
Scenario #3 : Using a mechanics stethoscope listen to the valve train with the engine running. You will do this by placing the tip on top of the valve cover, moving front to rear, listening for any increase in noise. If you do not have a stethoscope, many subsitutes are readily available around the house/garage. You can use a screwdriver, 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet extention, wooden hammer handle, anything that is solid and straight. You will place one end of your make shift stethoscope on the valve cover, the other end you will need to grip the object with the bottom of your hand, make a fist, but leave an circular opening with your index finger and thumb. This will create a "cup" that will allow you to place your ear against and listen for any increase in noise.
Scenario #4 : Using a mechanics stethoscope listen to the oil pan with the engine running. You will do this by placing the tip on the side of the oil pan, moving front to rear, listening for any increase in noise. If you do not have a stethoscope, many subsitutes are readily available around the house/garage. You can use a screwdriver, 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet extention, wooden hammer handle, anything that is solid and straight. You will place one end of your make shift stethoscope on the oil pan, the other end you will need to grip the object with the bottom of your hand, make a fist, but leave an circular opening with your index finger and thumb. This will create a "cup" that will allow you to place your ear against and listen for any increase in noise.
I hope you find this helpful.
03-18-2010, 11:53 AM
#13
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Wow crazy cooter thanks sooo much for the very detailed help I will try that and see if I can find anything else. I had a mechanice buddy look at it and he said it probably is an EGR tube leak. I'm probably gonna wait a while and see if it gets any louder because it has been very faint when I get under the hood to check it out. He said it won't hurt anything.
07-22-2011, 11:43 AM
#15
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ticking noise
I have a 2008 ford f150 4x4...its had a tiking noise for months now I'e been told anything from chaning oil type, timing sensor, cam phasers, rocking arms to I need a brand new motor... I can' figure it out not even mechnics... OMG!!! it only does it when I accelerate... I have119000 on it but oil is always changed...what else cold be wrong????
07-22-2011, 12:19 PM
#16
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I have a 2003 F-150 and I had that exact same thing happen to me on the way to work about 6 months ago. I immediately took it to the dealer and they checked it out and ended up replacing my vacuum reservoir system thing. It hasn't made that sound since. It was really strange. The clicking noise came from under the passenger-side dash and only happened when I accelerated. When I took my foot off the gas pedal, it stopped, and it didn't make that noise at idle.
07-22-2011, 08:54 PM
#17
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Had that problem a few years back. Thought it was a bunch of things. My mechanic finally figured it out. It was the clutch fan or some fan just ticking off something. I'll give him a call and see if he remembers exactly what it was.
09-20-2011, 08:44 AM
#20
Senior Member
Not trying to be a **** but they don't have lifters they are valve lash adjusters I learned this when I tore my 5.4l apart no push rods no lifters it was weriod everything was in the head lots of special tools needed to rebuild these motors one to hold the crank and the other to hold the cams pain in the ***
