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Huh, can't say I've seen one like that, they old one. Aim for a 195 stat. At least between 192 and 198 or you'll have problems. Yea, I don't like that old design or 3rd party design with the outer ring. It may be okay, just haven't seen it before. I wouldn't call it all for nothing.
You can blow out the radiator fins the best you can and straiten the bent areas so it's cooling properly. Only other thing other than the radiator is air in the system. Air is system causes hot spots. Even with circulation an air pocket can remain stationary within the system, = hot spot.
Make sure it's purged/burped, I have a procedure if you need it. Two of them, Fords and my own.
^^^ My procedure is take off the upper radiator hose (from the rad), and fill it until it starts dripping out. I am interested in hearing what you do Brewmeister.
Take this for what it's worth, but my Mustang has that plate/ring on the pump, and it is a high flow pump. It flows much better than the OEM did. AFAIK, the only high flow pump I've seen for the 4.6 is made by Edelbrock... and that old pump of yours is not an Edelbrock.
As usual, here are my customary pics showing the difference between pumps.
So the high flow pumps have that outer piece...shield like thing that sort of makes a squirrel cage like set up ? Looks like that's what he had. Guess we'll see if there's a difference.
Your method is per Ford directions. Mine, well the 98 is stubborn so I jack the front and lower the rear. It's a fail safe. Easy and quick with a good floor jack and air tools. I do that right after the Ford method since air taps in the core and the lines below.
Huh, can't say I've seen one like that, they old one. Aim for a 195 stat. At least between 192 and 198 or you'll have problems. Yea, I don't like that old design or 3rd party design with the outer ring. It may be okay, just haven't seen it before. I wouldn't call it all for nothing. You can blow out the radiator fins the best you can and straiten the bent areas so it's cooling properly. Only other thing other than the radiator is air in the system. Air is system causes hot spots. Even with circulation an air pocket can remain stationary within the system, = hot spot. Make sure it's purged/burped, I have a procedure if you need it. Two of them, Fords and my own.
Yep got the 195 fail safe tstat. As far as the old pump, I thought it looked cheesy as well. The fins were noticeably larger on the new one. Plus I measured and confirmed that they were.
As far as the refill procedure, I've always had luck filling it, then starting it with the cap off and waiting for air bubbles to stop coming to surface. I did that today and drove probably 20 miles no issues. I haven't had a chance to pull a steep grade yet so I won't know if it is fixed for a week or two.
If I end up having issues again I'll replace the radiator with the most heavy duty one I can find. Do you guys have any recommendations where to buy and what to look for? I believe it only has a single row, but it does have a power steering and trans cooler installed.
Yep got the 195 fail safe tstat. As far as the old pump, I thought it looked cheesy as well. The fins were noticeably larger on the new one. Plus I measured and confirmed that they were.
As far as the refill procedure, I've always had luck filling it, then starting it with the cap off and waiting for air bubbles to stop coming to surface. I did that today and drove probably 20 miles no issues. I haven't had a chance to pull a steep grade yet so I won't know if it is fixed for a week or two.
If I end up having issues again I'll replace the radiator with the most heavy duty one I can find. Do you guys have any recommendations where to buy and what to look for? I believe it only has a single row, but it does have a power steering and trans cooler installed.
Yea, a 2 core or 3 core. Great, that's the perfect stat. I believe the lightnings can run a wider range of stats, not these, at least I haven't seen anyone run one lower than 92 without any problems. Go climb that hill lol. You don't have an ECT sensor in that truck right, well if it's 99 plus you don't. With the older 97/98 sometimes you have to crack loose the ECT like diesel injectors to purge the bubble that can develop just below.
I guess a dirty air filter could make the engine work harder, but still, these thing generally run the same temp without budging in either direction.
Yea, a 2 core or 3 core. Great, that's the perfect stat. I believe the lightnings can run a wider range of stats, not these, at least I haven't seen anyone run one lower than 92 without any problems. Go climb that hill lol. You don't have an ECT sensor in that truck right, well if it's 99 plus you don't. With the older 97/98 sometimes you have to crack loose the ECT like diesel injectors to purge the bubble that can develop just below. I guess a dirty air filter could make the engine work harder, but still, these thing generally run the same temp without budging in either direction.
My air filter is a bit dirty, but it's been worse before. In almost 5 years I've never seen that needle budge, and I've been in 120+ temps. 3 core radiator you say? Probably Rock auto for that I'm guessing?
I'll have to do the hill climb another day. Here in Globe, AZ it's raining and temps aren't high enough to test.
My air filter is a bit dirty, but it's been worse before. In almost 5 years I've never seen that needle budge, and I've been in 120+ temps. 3 core radiator you say? Probably Rock auto for that I'm guessing?
I'll have to do the hill climb another day. Here in Globe, AZ it's raining and temps aren't high enough to test.
I'm not sure about the best resource anymore, I haven't had to score one in quite awhile. You might have a dual core factory. I wouldn't change it unless absolutely necessary of course. If you haven't changed the fluid every 3 years, you know, kept on the maintenance then it may be getting corroded up inside. Still using my factory unit w/337,000 on it...and it had a bad case of electrolysis at one time. Up until I went thru the grounds and added a few.
06-30-2016, 05:44 PM
