bigaaron

1999 f150 4x4 57k on the clock












I know its a common problem so I am going to replace the transmission tube due to the corrosion. My issue is the steel bracket attaching the tube to the engine has rusted near the bolt that secures the tube to the engine.

Question: what size is the bolt head that attaches the tube to the engine?
I put a 6mm on it, hex socket is too big. I can
only assume the bolt has deteriorated away.

If I remove the bolt is it sealing any liquids? will there be any
leakage when I remove the bolt?

Jbrew

Unique question man. 6mm really! Wow, that's teeny tiny...surprised the tube hasn't broken free.

Anyway, -

Yea, those rust out too fast, best to a stainless one or pick one up somewhere, even home depot carries metric in stainless. On the other side of the engine, - same thing happens with oil dipstick tube...actually it's in a worse spot, like a pocket that corrodes pipe to the point of creating holes without you knowing it. That's very bad for the engine of course, problem is you can't see it unless you make the effort to take a look.

The hold down bolts are usually 8-10mm heads X 6mm thread I expect. Check the thread once removed, -I'm fairly certain they are 6mm thread w/8mm flange heads.

Best you can do, - a stainless flange head bolt. Something like this, -

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...bolts&_sacat=0

Remove the old one any way you can, -and no it won't leak fluids there.

bigaaron

than you jbrew - wondering if they sell the actual tube in stainless - google time

bigaaron

found out why I was struggling with the bolt holding the trans dipstick tube - there was a tack weld on the bottom of the bolt. I found it because I finally broke down and pulled the inner fender well out. All done, hopefully this helps someone.

10thGenScab

thanks for the update. my tube bracket on the block is now broken. where did you source the tube from?

bigaaron

got mine here:

bigaaron

don't forget to throw some anti-seize on the bolt when you put it back in and put a little grease on the o-ring at the end of the tube prior to installation

Jbrew

Be care with anti-seize on those bolts though. Actually your NOT suppose to use anti-seize on that type because torque is unobtainable with it.

However, -if you know what your doing.....you can use it as long as (this is crucial) you DON'T attempt to achieve torque. Use the turn clock when tightening. Which would be 1.5 turns after seat. Other wise you'll weaken the bolt or snap it while applying VERY little torque....the downfall of anti-seize in the wrong places you could say. Sounds like the thing to do (good idea) but it really isn't. Anti-sieze is for the VERY coarse and solid stop fasteners where heat is factor in most cases. Like say a O2 sensor. The trans tube hold down bolt would receive Loctite Blue which will keep the bolt from seizing and corroding up. You could also use Vibra Orange on the threads. It works just the same and that way you can achieve torque without accidentally damaging that 9.8 series bolt.

For the guys who have used and familiar with the Anti Seize attributes, you know who are , and also know exactly what I'm talking about lol.

Anyway, hope that helps.

bigaaron

didn't sweat the torque setting. Just didn't want the bolt to seize to the cylinder head as they are dissimilar metals. Being a few inches from the exhaust manifold, heat may be a factor.

Jbrew

Yea, I know...your trying to prevent that. Another way to put it, might help you realize what I'm saying....maybe, I ramble a lot lol. - Ant-sieze on the wrong type bolt will seem like it won't tighten...your like (?) wtf. Sooo, -one might just keep turning the bolt a few more turns, until the bolt snaps. That's the scenario you want to avoid....very much so lol.

All I'm trying to say is that anti-sieze has it's place. It can also be deadly...like say if you use it on tie rods lol. Jam nuts can/will loosen while the vehicle is in motion lol.

By-law and rule of thumb with that stuff is to reduce torque x30%. If you can't meet that reduction (torque value), clean the bolt/fastener and switch to Henkle Loctite or a Bradly product like vibra orange...you know that orange or blue stuff you see pre applied on certain bolts here and there. They don't sell it in stores, you have to hit ebay for it.

IF your just talking about the outer side of the bolt, that's different! You use Zinc Phosphate or a a product called "A-Special" and brush it in. A-Special on battery lugs will last just about a life time lol. Good Shiii!!

Glad your thinking ahead, that's always good and try to do that myself. Learned a few things along the way as we all do.

BTW, - you may want to check your crank oil dipstick tube and bolt if the your trans bolt was that bad. It can get much worse with these trucks and cost you and engine....seriously! When they corrode up it eats a hole in the tube and allows dirt, dust and foreign matter into the engine. Worst thing about that (well almost the worst) is that you'll never know this is happening unless you pull the drivers side wheel liner and look at it. There's been quite a few of those over the years which prompted me to look one day....sure enough. I replaced that one as well.