tranny issue...need help
12-14-2013, 02:23 AM
#12
If you have the factory steel core gasket, use it over. Don't use the piece of crap gasket that comes with the filter.
12-16-2013, 10:52 AM
#13
Senior Member
You can do the job but as the previous post reads: makes a mess. Get the filter kit and proper TYPE trans fluid with enough quarts for the trans without converter. And, get a funnel that reaches the dipstick tube.
Lay plenty of newspaper down or even plastic. With the vehicle "not hot" or cold, loosen all the pan screws about 3-4 turns. Place a large-wide catch basin underneath. Hold the front of the trans pan up and tap on the sides of the pan with a plastic hammer or piece of wood. You want to loosen the pan and have it pivot back to dump fluid backward into the catch basin. When it breaks loose the fluid will run out all over. (that's why it can't be hot fluid)
Remove all the screws and lower the pan. Remove the filter screws and pull it down. Install the new filter using some clean fluid on the o-ring if any. Clean the pan and reinstall with a new gasket. A bit of silver metal shavings is normal. Lots is not. Don't overtighten the pan screws...they can snap if you get crazy. A torque wrench is best. Owner's manuals often have the torque spec.
Smell your fluid and compare the color to new. Burnt fluid smell is not good. Your fluid will be much darker than the new stuff because of heat.
Add the required fluid less 1 quart into the dipstick tube. Start the engine and let it idle. Shift through the PRNDL a few times. Let it idle until warm. It will warm up faster in D than P. Check the fluid and add enough to just hit the max level mark. Overfilling is very bad as the rotating parts will churn it into foam and cause problems.
Not changing the converter fluid is not a big deal. Unlike engine oil with constant combustion contaminants, trans fluid is mainly just heated. You'll notice that trans fluid cleans your hands...because it is high in detergents...important for keeping all the valves and orifices free and clean.
Good luck!
Lay plenty of newspaper down or even plastic. With the vehicle "not hot" or cold, loosen all the pan screws about 3-4 turns. Place a large-wide catch basin underneath. Hold the front of the trans pan up and tap on the sides of the pan with a plastic hammer or piece of wood. You want to loosen the pan and have it pivot back to dump fluid backward into the catch basin. When it breaks loose the fluid will run out all over. (that's why it can't be hot fluid)
Remove all the screws and lower the pan. Remove the filter screws and pull it down. Install the new filter using some clean fluid on the o-ring if any. Clean the pan and reinstall with a new gasket. A bit of silver metal shavings is normal. Lots is not. Don't overtighten the pan screws...they can snap if you get crazy. A torque wrench is best. Owner's manuals often have the torque spec.
Smell your fluid and compare the color to new. Burnt fluid smell is not good. Your fluid will be much darker than the new stuff because of heat.
Add the required fluid less 1 quart into the dipstick tube. Start the engine and let it idle. Shift through the PRNDL a few times. Let it idle until warm. It will warm up faster in D than P. Check the fluid and add enough to just hit the max level mark. Overfilling is very bad as the rotating parts will churn it into foam and cause problems.
Not changing the converter fluid is not a big deal. Unlike engine oil with constant combustion contaminants, trans fluid is mainly just heated. You'll notice that trans fluid cleans your hands...because it is high in detergents...important for keeping all the valves and orifices free and clean.
Good luck!
My buddy is a mechanic for Jeep but had previously worked at a Tranny shop. He advised also on doing it on my own as it is very easy to do, just going to make a mess. With that in mind what can I loose. I will also be saving a bunch of money as well (and yes I already have Gieco! LOL)
Thanks for the great instructions as well, very appriciated!
12-16-2013, 01:11 PM
#14
The type should be specified on the F150 trans fluid dipstick. The yellow handle one on the left. For example Mercon or Mercon V. Your manual will explain what you can and cannot mix.
Brands are Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol etc. and major brands would all be reputable.
Types would be Dexron, Mercon, Type F, etc. and using the wrong type will likely cause problems.
Synthetic is great for hard and long use but not super critical if you don't pull heavy loads, etc.
Trans fluid types have differing viscosities, friction characteristics, and additive packages. Using the wrong type is why (I believe) some auto manufacturers have virtually stopped recommending changing fluid...too many mistakes in type.
Brands are Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol etc. and major brands would all be reputable.
Types would be Dexron, Mercon, Type F, etc. and using the wrong type will likely cause problems.
Synthetic is great for hard and long use but not super critical if you don't pull heavy loads, etc.
Trans fluid types have differing viscosities, friction characteristics, and additive packages. Using the wrong type is why (I believe) some auto manufacturers have virtually stopped recommending changing fluid...too many mistakes in type.
12-16-2013, 05:22 PM
#15
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I have a 2001 5.4 2wd f150 that wont drive. Happened while the roads were frozen the truck wouldnt drive at all, there are no metal particles in the oil and the transmission doesnt sound messed up could it be the turbine or something else?
12-16-2013, 08:12 PM
#16
You can pull the return line from your trans cooler to the tranny, have a friend start the engine and let the line pump fluid right into a bucket. Once it starts to sputter, shut off the truck. That way you can drop the pan and not be eating 6 or 7 quarts of fluid.
Once you add up the cost of fluid (14 qts? X $6) + new filter + tax you'll be around $100 so there isn't a huge savings to be had considering how bad you'll most likely total the garage floor/driveway.
Once you add up the cost of fluid (14 qts? X $6) + new filter + tax you'll be around $100 so there isn't a huge savings to be had considering how bad you'll most likely total the garage floor/driveway.