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Torsion bar adjustment

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Old 12-12-2010, 02:14 AM
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Default Torsion bar adjustment

Anyone know what the turn to height is on the adjustment bolts? I heard for every quarter turn it raised it a inch which seems like a lot to me. Just put a brush guard on my truck and its sagging a little from the weight only lookin to get a 1''-1.5'' to level it out for now.
Old 12-12-2010, 02:19 AM
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Starting from stock to maxing out will only be about 2"... and I know I can turn mine alot........ I would say for every full turn is like 1/4inch maybe?
Old 12-12-2010, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AZFX4
Starting from stock to maxing out will only be about 2"... and I know I can turn mine alot........ I would say for every full turn is like 1/4inch maybe?
The full turn to a 1/4'' makes a lot more sense but i didnt wanna max them. Just enough to level it out for now till i get my rear block kit cause i have 3'' lift keys for the front. But if it wont be much by itself i might just wait then till i can install the new keys.
Old 12-12-2010, 05:56 AM
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i learned my lesson the hard way...and that is to never mess with the tortion bars...it only leads to balljoint replacement....and cv stress and so on
Old 12-12-2010, 10:39 AM
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Quick question. I just replaced my cv axles yesterday. Now the passenger side, when driving and hitting bumps, makes a rattle noise. One of my off-road buds said I had to adjust the torsion bar on the passenger side and it would take the rattle away. Is this true? and how much do I adjust and in what way (up or down)?

Last edited by farmboy73; 12-12-2010 at 11:20 AM.
Old 12-12-2010, 11:31 AM
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Torsion bar adjustment-driver-side.jpg

Torsion bar adjustment-passenger-side.jpg
Old 12-12-2010, 03:31 PM
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Easiest way is to measure the distance from the ground to the top/center of the fender-well. Jack the front-tires off the ground, crawl underneath the truck. Mark the adjustment bolts and crossmember with a paint-marker for reference. With an 18mm socket and ratchet, tighten the bolts. Start with 4-5 full turns (make sure and do the same number of turns on each side) let the truck down and check the height difference. Just do this until the desired height is achieved. Make sure and keep an eye on your CV angles. Every truck is different. I think mine was 6-7 full turns to get right about 2" of lift. Hope this helps.
Old 12-12-2010, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxximus
Easiest way is to measure the distance from the ground to the top/center of the fender-well. Jack the front-tires off the ground, crawl underneath the truck. Mark the adjustment bolts and crossmember with a paint-marker for reference. With an 18mm socket and ratchet, tighten the bolts. Start with 4-5 full turns (make sure and do the same number of turns on each side) let the truck down and check the height difference. Just do this until the desired height is achieved. Make sure and keep an eye on your CV angles. Every truck is different. I think mine was 6-7 full turns to get right about 2" of lift. Hope this helps.
Yea that sounds good. Ive been hearing good and bad with doing the torsion key lift some say dont install the keys and just crank the stock ones up the whole way and then i hear dont do any of it it wears other components out like chase said. Its either all good to go and do it or all bad.
Old 12-12-2010, 05:23 PM
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So what do you recommend to get the rattle out of the truck? Do I tighten the torsion bar or loosen? Confused now.
Old 12-12-2010, 05:33 PM
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So would it be the torsion bar or the stabilizer bar? I know I had to remove the stabilizer bushings to get the cv axles out and like a dumb ***** I didn't mark where they were before I took them off. So could adjusting the stabilizer bar make the rattle go away?


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