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I saw Ford at $500 from O'Reillys and got their Murray 2" for $250. Electrolysis, eh? After helping a pal with a corroded 6 gal trailer water heater, I've wondered about rigging a sacrificial anode.
PS. Glad you're here! You are proving interesting.
They didn't have the Murray in stock or I'd have picked that one up for $275 from O'Really... from what I gather, you either change to a modern coolant type that isn't prone to electrolysis like ethylene glycol (Green stuff) or clean up every ground and hope for the best. After about 2 years you can measure the amount of voltage the coolant carries as it provides grounding through the block, and though I'm not sure of the numbers you'd be looking for I've seen a method used where you hook a multi-meter to the coolant reservoir, then to the chassis to test for electrolysis on 10th gens. I suppose an anode would work, but that's the nature of ethylene glycol, and it's gonna start to happen when the coolant reaches roughly 2 years of age.
... from what I gather, you either change to a modern coolant type that isn't prone to electrolysis like ethylene glycol (Green stuff) or clean up every ground and hope for the best. After about 2 years you can measure the amount of voltage the coolant carries as it provides grounding through the block, and though I'm not sure of the numbers you'd be looking for I've seen a method used where you hook a multi-meter to the coolant reservoir, then to the chassis to test for electrolysis on 10th gens. I suppose an anode would work, but that's the nature of ethylene glycol, and it's gonna start to happen when the coolant reaches roughly 2 years of age.
Interesting!!! I have tried to double-flush my system, and started using PINK lifetime/100,000 mi(?) 7 yr antifreeze from O'Reillys. Costly, but "One & Done," I hope. Sorry but my bottle is not handy to offer the name.
Interesting!!! I have tried to double-flush my system, and started using PINK lifetime/100,000 mi(?) 7 yr antifreeze from O'Reillys. Costly, but "One & Done," I hope. Sorry but my bottle is not handy to offer the name.
That's awesome... and that's the preferred method to make electrolysis a non-issue.
I should have done that but instead just installed a Prestone flush adapter on the outlet of the heater core to flush the block without removing the coolant drain plugs from the block (near the exhaust manifolds on either side of the block). I ran the Prestone coolant flush solution for 30 minuites, backflushed with distilled water until it flowed clear from the lower rad hose, then filled with OE green and purged air through the Prestone flush adapter.
So far so good... no gurgling sound from the heater core like it did because air was trapped in there for years. I never could get the air out of there until I used that flush adapter to purge the lines with the system pressurized. All grounds are gonna get cleaned and greased with dielectric (saw a few hidden grounds on the front end teardown Jbrew just did) and maybe I'll get another 25 years out of this radiator.
