Thinking
#5211
Senior Member
**revised**
05 escape has no heat. Heater hose is hot, coolant level is full, praying it's not a clogged core
05 escape has no heat. Heater hose is hot, coolant level is full, praying it's not a clogged core
Last edited by fordguy2100; 01-16-2018 at 09:43 PM.
#5212
Senior Member
ROFL, - well it was the fresh water pump. It was leaking out of a crimped fitting. I found very little water and didn't need to repair anything. The nylon hose was pulled too tight at the fitting by me when I was working in another area previously. So , too much pressure strain at an angle and at the fitting caused an intermittent leak. It was most likley dripping slowly, then faster when the pump kicked on. I just slackened up the hose for now, no more leak. Btw, -it wasn't leaking when I got there, to get an idea how minor it was.
Yea, that could of been much worse, it slipped my mind to turn the pump off before I left. The pump maintains 45 psi in the lines. If the line would have broke, I could of had a 45 gallon water mess to clean up.
Yea, that could of been much worse, it slipped my mind to turn the pump off before I left. The pump maintains 45 psi in the lines. If the line would have broke, I could of had a 45 gallon water mess to clean up.
#5213
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
#5214
Senior Member
Nah.... they are really good vehicles. They have a couple flaws, but mine has just under 200,000 miles on it. I can't complain about that.
2100, when I had a no heat condition on mine, I thought I had a clogged core as well (in fact, I even flushed the core - but no change). Both hoses were hot to the touch, but a really lukewarm heater. Barely enough to even defrost the windows. Turned out that the thermostat was not closing all the way. How I found out was it finally started throwing a code. Weird thing was, the temp needle is in the same spot pretty much all the time at operating temp, so I never even suspected. The new stat has the thing blowing fire out of the vents now. IIRC, you have a 2.3 liter also. I strongly suggest you do the water pump while you are at it because the stat is a REALLY fun stat to replace..... If you need help with knowing what to do, I've got some pics I can dig up.
2100, when I had a no heat condition on mine, I thought I had a clogged core as well (in fact, I even flushed the core - but no change). Both hoses were hot to the touch, but a really lukewarm heater. Barely enough to even defrost the windows. Turned out that the thermostat was not closing all the way. How I found out was it finally started throwing a code. Weird thing was, the temp needle is in the same spot pretty much all the time at operating temp, so I never even suspected. The new stat has the thing blowing fire out of the vents now. IIRC, you have a 2.3 liter also. I strongly suggest you do the water pump while you are at it because the stat is a REALLY fun stat to replace..... If you need help with knowing what to do, I've got some pics I can dig up.
#5215
Senior Member
Originally Posted by jprevat
Man you guys have a lot of trouble with those escapes.
Originally Posted by white89gt
Nah.... they are really good vehicles. They have a couple flaws, but mine has just under 200,000 miles on it. I can't complain about that.
2100, when I had a no heat condition on mine, I thought I had a clogged core as well (in fact, I even flushed the core - but no change). Both hoses were hot to the touch, but a really lukewarm heater. Barely enough to even defrost the windows. Turned out that the thermostat was not closing all the way. How I found out was it finally started throwing a code. Weird thing was, the temp needle is in the same spot pretty much all the time at operating temp, so I never even suspected. The new stat has the thing blowing fire out of the vents now. IIRC, you have a 2.3 liter also. I strongly suggest you do the water pump while you are at it because the stat is a REALLY fun stat to replace..... If you need help with knowing what to do, I've got some pics I can dig up.
2100, when I had a no heat condition on mine, I thought I had a clogged core as well (in fact, I even flushed the core - but no change). Both hoses were hot to the touch, but a really lukewarm heater. Barely enough to even defrost the windows. Turned out that the thermostat was not closing all the way. How I found out was it finally started throwing a code. Weird thing was, the temp needle is in the same spot pretty much all the time at operating temp, so I never even suspected. The new stat has the thing blowing fire out of the vents now. IIRC, you have a 2.3 liter also. I strongly suggest you do the water pump while you are at it because the stat is a REALLY fun stat to replace..... If you need help with knowing what to do, I've got some pics I can dig up.
#5217
Senior Member
OK, the 3.0 is a little easier. On the 2.3 you have to pull the A/C compressor to get to it.... and the hoses/lines aren't very long, so you have to support it, etc.
Anyway, if you have Torque Pro, or something similar, you can go see what the temp is. Mine was 160-165 when it was throwing a code. Now it gets to 195-198. Very, very nice heater, lol.
----- My alternator is starting to make the headlights flicker. It is still the original, and I think it needs brushes. I will be getting to that pretty soon. I think the 2.3 is easier than the 3.0 for the alternator. I hear the CV axle needs to come out for the 3.0 alternators.
Anyway, if you have Torque Pro, or something similar, you can go see what the temp is. Mine was 160-165 when it was throwing a code. Now it gets to 195-198. Very, very nice heater, lol.
----- My alternator is starting to make the headlights flicker. It is still the original, and I think it needs brushes. I will be getting to that pretty soon. I think the 2.3 is easier than the 3.0 for the alternator. I hear the CV axle needs to come out for the 3.0 alternators.
Last edited by white89gt; 01-17-2018 at 11:09 AM.
#5218
Senior Member
So Brew, I went and saw Satch last night. Dude is absolutely amazing. What an experience, and another thing to knock off the bucket list.
#5219
Senior Member
OK, the 3.0 is a little easier. On the 2.3 you have to pull the A/C compressor to get to it.... and the hoses/lines aren't very long, so you have to support it, etc.
Anyway, if you have Torque Pro, or something similar, you can go see what the temp is. Mine was 160-165 when it was throwing a code. Now it gets to 195-198. Very, very nice heater, lol.
----- My alternator is starting to make the headlights flicker. It is still the original, and I think it needs brushes. I will be getting to that pretty soon. I think the 2.3 is easier than the 3.0 for the alternator. I hear the CV axle needs to come out for the 3.0 alternators.
Anyway, if you have Torque Pro, or something similar, you can go see what the temp is. Mine was 160-165 when it was throwing a code. Now it gets to 195-198. Very, very nice heater, lol.
----- My alternator is starting to make the headlights flicker. It is still the original, and I think it needs brushes. I will be getting to that pretty soon. I think the 2.3 is easier than the 3.0 for the alternator. I hear the CV axle needs to come out for the 3.0 alternators.
#5220
Senior Member
Yes, I would say it needs brushes. Well, I'm still using my original 3G Alt in the truck @ 340,000 miles. I replaced the first set of brushes at around 185,000 miles and they were almost gone. I'm not sure if your car wears the same, but it's a good bet you need a set lol.
Wait.... I replaced the alternator in the Expy with a fairly new boneyard pick I found. Might be OK on that.