Suicide Doors/ Rear Doors wont open
#21
The following users liked this post:
FordsForever71 (05-06-2021)
#23
Thanks, Ron
#24
The bottom latch cable is located at the bottom of the mechanism. Mine fell off also, I had to dig around and find the cable. You can find the cable from where it goes toward the bottom latch. The cable still should be behind the mechanism but just un hooked. I found mine and pulled it out (unhooked from mechanism), then pulled on cable/outer covering to get the latch open. Had to figure out a spacer same as top cable problem (plastic part disintegrates). The bracket for the spacer is on the back bottom of mechanism and the cable goes up to hook into mechanism.
#25
Just had to fix bottom part of upper cable, drivers side door. What a peice of crap cables!......With the door shut it will be hard to open but if you pull back the plastic at the bottom closest to the latch you can reach in and feel the bottom latch. cable attaches to mechanism and you need to trip it.....just feel around towards bottom back will be a lever. Once opened there are just 2 philliphs screws on bottom outside of door, then can remove bottom latch from inside of door to fix.
#26
Found this pictorial link that proved very helpful to use to fix my rear door issue...
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/l...1204-02605.jpg
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/l...1204-02605.jpg
#27
f150 small door BEST FIX !!!
OK Sorry for the hype but I had the same failure and started "Inventin"....
You're gonna say Um duh !
The system is a cable drive.... a lot like ...oh I don't know maybe exactly like the cable drive that actuated the caliper brakes on a typical bicycle !!!
So go look at the cable... look at the end of the cable and how it terminates into the squeeze grip assembly.... Look at the "adjustment" system... into which the end of the cable nests..
The end.
TAKE that "adjustment system" or threaded sleeve and the threaded lock nut or threaded washer and use it to replace the end of the cable inside the door. I used my needle nose pliers and just "crushed the old plastic end and peeled it away. the replace the with bicycle parts. I did both in ....ok two hours of scratching me head ... and then 20 minutes once the light bulb came on !!!!!
OK who is gonna send me the "nobel peace price" in the category of "telling a dealer and his prices to shove it".
Works great... will last longer than the original.... price..... $2.00
yur welcome
OK Sorry for the hype but I had the same failure and started "Inventin"....
You're gonna say Um duh !
The system is a cable drive.... a lot like ...oh I don't know maybe exactly like the cable drive that actuated the caliper brakes on a typical bicycle !!!
So go look at the cable... look at the end of the cable and how it terminates into the squeeze grip assembly.... Look at the "adjustment" system... into which the end of the cable nests..
The end.
TAKE that "adjustment system" or threaded sleeve and the threaded lock nut or threaded washer and use it to replace the end of the cable inside the door. I used my needle nose pliers and just "crushed the old plastic end and peeled it away. the replace the with bicycle parts. I did both in ....ok two hours of scratching me head ... and then 20 minutes once the light bulb came on !!!!!
OK who is gonna send me the "nobel peace price" in the category of "telling a dealer and his prices to shove it".
Works great... will last longer than the original.... price..... $2.00
yur welcome
The following users liked this post:
kd4gij (09-13-2014)
#28
f150 small door BEST FIX !!!
OK Sorry for the hype but I had the same failure and started "Inventin"....
You're gonna say Um duh !
The system is a cable drive.... a lot like ...oh I don't know maybe exactly like the cable drive that actuated the caliper brakes on a typical bicycle !!!
So go look at the cable... look at the end of the cable and how it terminates into the squeeze grip assembly.... Look at the "adjustment" system... into which the end of the cable nests..
The end.
TAKE that "adjustment system" or threaded sleeve and the threaded lock nut or threaded washer and use it to replace the end of the cable inside the door. I used my needle nose pliers and just "crushed the old plastic end and peeled it away. the replace the with bicycle parts. I did both in ....ok two hours of scratching me head ... and then 20 minutes once the light bulb came on !!!!!
OK who is gonna send me the "nobel peace price" in the category of "telling a dealer and his prices to shove it".
Works great... will last longer than the original.... price..... $2.00
yur welcome
OK Sorry for the hype but I had the same failure and started "Inventin"....
You're gonna say Um duh !
The system is a cable drive.... a lot like ...oh I don't know maybe exactly like the cable drive that actuated the caliper brakes on a typical bicycle !!!
So go look at the cable... look at the end of the cable and how it terminates into the squeeze grip assembly.... Look at the "adjustment" system... into which the end of the cable nests..
The end.
TAKE that "adjustment system" or threaded sleeve and the threaded lock nut or threaded washer and use it to replace the end of the cable inside the door. I used my needle nose pliers and just "crushed the old plastic end and peeled it away. the replace the with bicycle parts. I did both in ....ok two hours of scratching me head ... and then 20 minutes once the light bulb came on !!!!!
OK who is gonna send me the "nobel peace price" in the category of "telling a dealer and his prices to shove it".
Works great... will last longer than the original.... price..... $2.00
yur welcome
#29
#30
My 2001 Extended CAB f150 REAR SUICIDE DOORS WOULDN'T OPEN; THE PLASTIC INSERT THAT HOLDS THE CABLE SHIELD IN PLACE WAS BROKEN.
I TOOK A #14 OR #12 WIRE NUT, CUT THE END OFF, THEN HACKSAWED THE NUT LENGTH-WISE; USING A PAIR OF BENT-NOSED LONG-NOSE PLIERS, I WAS ABLE TO PUSH THE CABLE SHIELD UP AND AT THE SAME TIME PRESS THE WIRE NUT IN OVER THE CABLE WHERE IT WRAPPED AROUND THE CABLE; THEN PUSHED IT DOWN INTO THE 'C' SHAPED OPENING IN THE LATCH BRACKET WHERE THE ORIGINAL FACTORY PLASTIC INSERT WAS INSTALLED. IT TOOK ABOUT 3-4 ATTEMPTS... KEPT DROPPING THE WIRE NUTS... BEFORE I FINALLY GOT THEM INSTALLED... I DID BOTH DOORS.
I TOOK A #14 OR #12 WIRE NUT, CUT THE END OFF, THEN HACKSAWED THE NUT LENGTH-WISE; USING A PAIR OF BENT-NOSED LONG-NOSE PLIERS, I WAS ABLE TO PUSH THE CABLE SHIELD UP AND AT THE SAME TIME PRESS THE WIRE NUT IN OVER THE CABLE WHERE IT WRAPPED AROUND THE CABLE; THEN PUSHED IT DOWN INTO THE 'C' SHAPED OPENING IN THE LATCH BRACKET WHERE THE ORIGINAL FACTORY PLASTIC INSERT WAS INSTALLED. IT TOOK ABOUT 3-4 ATTEMPTS... KEPT DROPPING THE WIRE NUTS... BEFORE I FINALLY GOT THEM INSTALLED... I DID BOTH DOORS.