this sub is dying - long live gen 10
#21
Senior Member
#22
Senior Member
JP.... just remove the exhaust from manifolds back.... then come back and ask why it's running like crap.
The trans mount becomes a moot point at that time.. lol.
The trans mount becomes a moot point at that time.. lol.
#23
I'm still hunting down my lean code. But if by trans mount, you mean the one on the cross member that supports the transmission and exhaust... Jbrew clued me in that that's why my exhaust manifold had sheared mounting stud off. Turns out I had bent the end of that cross frame one day somehow. Found one on ebay, and pick a part is not far, so thinking of yanking it all. Something in my head keeps saying the really hot cat on that bank has something to do with it. Debating to take it to a shop, or just rip the stuff out and inspect it. But even with two other vehicles, I want my truck back on the road. I like it.
#24
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Jbrew, thanks to some good advice around here I'll probably have it done before my wife even wakes up. Lol
White if I take out all the other crossmembers too I can save weight and make my gas mileage go up for when I want to race my truck with 37s and stock gears.
Taper, mine wore out and sheared a couple of studs too. Didn't know that was the reason at the time but I broke another stud and did some asking and now I hope I can remedy a few of my problems with one fix.
White if I take out all the other crossmembers too I can save weight and make my gas mileage go up for when I want to race my truck with 37s and stock gears.
Taper, mine wore out and sheared a couple of studs too. Didn't know that was the reason at the time but I broke another stud and did some asking and now I hope I can remedy a few of my problems with one fix.
Last edited by jprevat; 07-13-2018 at 10:46 PM.
#25
Senior Member
You can also look at the Ford Service DVD, they have it correct in there as well.
Last edited by Jbrew; 07-13-2018 at 11:00 PM.
#26
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Yea just follow that little write up I posted, you'll be alright. Make sure you support directly under the oil pan and trans. So you don't break or bend any studs while doing it. Might have to chop some wood blocks to support it right. That would suck lol.
You can also look at the Ford Service DVD, they have it correct in there as well.
You can also look at the Ford Service DVD, they have it correct in there as well.
#27
Senior Member
It's not bad, a little time consuming because of the wrench only work. A good set of ratchet wrenches come in handy. Double Check trans alignment before torquing the mount. All you do it check that it's centered between the frame rails. That's your drive line pivot point, the mount nuts are like the demigod of alignment. The transmission is the pivot point and can shift from right to left a full 20* out of square taking the engine and drive shaft with it. Engine pivots at it's mounts, shaft pivots at the rear axle. So yea, the trans has to be centered or aligned...dead nuts.
Also, watch for it to spring in one direction or the other when you take the mount loose, it shouldn't. Personally, I check center before removing out of curiosity, -as it could give reason of other componant wear.
Also, watch for it to spring in one direction or the other when you take the mount loose, it shouldn't. Personally, I check center before removing out of curiosity, -as it could give reason of other componant wear.
Last edited by Jbrew; 07-14-2018 at 10:59 AM.
#28
Senior Member
Yea just follow that little write up I posted, you'll be alright. Make sure you support directly under the oil pan and trans. So you don't break or bend any studs while doing it. Might have to chop some wood blocks to support it right. That would suck lol.
You can also look at the Ford Service DVD, they have it correct in there as well.
You can also look at the Ford Service DVD, they have it correct in there as well.
#29
Senior Member
#30
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
It's not bad, a little time consuming because of the wrench only work. A good set of ratchet wrenches come in handy. Double Check trans alignment before torquing the mount. All you do it check that it's centered between the frame rails. That's your drive line pivot point, the mount nuts are like the demigod of alignment. The transmission is the pivot point and can shift from right to left a full 20* out of square taking the engine and drive shaft with it. Engine pivots at it's mounts, shaft pivots at the rear axle. So yea, the trans has to be centered or aligned...dead nuts.
Also, watch for it to spring in one direction or the other when you take the mount loose, it shouldn't. Personally, I check center before removing out of curiosity, -as it could give reason of other componant wear.
Also, watch for it to spring in one direction or the other when you take the mount loose, it shouldn't. Personally, I check center before removing out of curiosity, -as it could give reason of other componant wear.