2000 4r100 Transmission Removal! How To?
#1
2000 4r100 Transmission Removal! How To?
Ok, I finally took the plung and bought a rebuilt 4r100 transmission for my 2000 F150. Reason being, it slips when it's hot outside, when it's cool the truck shifts perfectly but since I'm living in sunny Phoenix AZ, it's rarely cool. I have a 1000lb motorcycle jack, bottle jacks and plenty of hand tools but is there any special procedures I may need to follow or tools to buy before I commit to this project? Plus the 4r100 has been sitting on a shelf in a garage for almost a year, now I'm thinking this might be a bad idea?
#2
Senior Member
I almost bought one at one time, - until I got on a Ford site and asked about it.
Yea, same trans, mine slipped as well, got so bad it wouldn't move once it heated up. That was at 185,000 miles. Changed the fluid to something MUCH better than the factory fill and what was recommended. Yea don't go by your owners manual, well you can't anyway,- since that fluid is no longer available. Go with Amsoil.
That did the trick and it's still shifting gears at 339,000. Yea the stuff they used at the factory was so bad, -they quit making it and cleared the shelves. That was long ago.
Good luck with that one, - a trans jack would help.
Yea, same trans, mine slipped as well, got so bad it wouldn't move once it heated up. That was at 185,000 miles. Changed the fluid to something MUCH better than the factory fill and what was recommended. Yea don't go by your owners manual, well you can't anyway,- since that fluid is no longer available. Go with Amsoil.
That did the trick and it's still shifting gears at 339,000. Yea the stuff they used at the factory was so bad, -they quit making it and cleared the shelves. That was long ago.
Good luck with that one, - a trans jack would help.
Last edited by Jbrew; 07-22-2016 at 07:39 PM.
#3
I almost bought one at one time, - until I got on a Ford site and asked about it.
Yea, same trans, mine slipped as well, got so bad it wouldn't move once it heated up. That was at 185,000 miles. Changed the fluid to something MUCH better than the factory fill and what was recommended. Yea don't go by your owners manual, well you can't anyway,- since that fluid is no longer available. Go with Amsoil.
That did the trick and it's still shifting gears at 339,000. Yea the stuff they used at the factory was so bad, -they quit making it and cleared the shelves. That was long ago.
Good luck with that one, - a trans jack would help.
Yea, same trans, mine slipped as well, got so bad it wouldn't move once it heated up. That was at 185,000 miles. Changed the fluid to something MUCH better than the factory fill and what was recommended. Yea don't go by your owners manual, well you can't anyway,- since that fluid is no longer available. Go with Amsoil.
That did the trick and it's still shifting gears at 339,000. Yea the stuff they used at the factory was so bad, -they quit making it and cleared the shelves. That was long ago.
Good luck with that one, - a trans jack would help.
#4
Senior Member
Yea, they did use a fluid called 'Mercon' which was just a bad formulation as far as keeping the heat down. It broke down in short time and was non synthetic. Amsoil is a full synthetic (there is others available as well) that knocks the heat right down...night and day difference.
It might be a PITA to get all your old fluid out. If your lucky, you'll have a drain in the pan and a 10mm plug on the converter to fully drain. You'll need about 20 qrts and the stuff isn't cheap.
It might be a PITA to get all your old fluid out. If your lucky, you'll have a drain in the pan and a 10mm plug on the converter to fully drain. You'll need about 20 qrts and the stuff isn't cheap.
#5
Yea, they did use a fluid called 'Mercon' which was just a bad formulation as far as keeping the heat down. It broke down in short time and was non synthetic. Amsoil is a full synthetic (there is others available as well) that knocks the heat right down...night and day difference.
It might be a PITA to get all your old fluid out. If your lucky, you'll have a drain in the pan and a 10mm plug on the converter to fully drain. You'll need about 20 qrts and the stuff isn't cheap.
It might be a PITA to get all your old fluid out. If your lucky, you'll have a drain in the pan and a 10mm plug on the converter to fully drain. You'll need about 20 qrts and the stuff isn't cheap.
#6
Senior Member
I don't know about magical lol, but it honestly has been called miracle fluid. How many miles on that 4r100 ? If you have a bunch of miles and it's just slipping a shift kit will help a lot. I ended putting a shift kit in mine since it was easy to do. They are about 100 bucks tho. I put in the Transgo tugger kit. Firmed up the shift points quite a bit. Not sure if they make that kit anymore, - someone probably makes a kit for it though. Thought I would mention it since your probably going to pull the pan to change the trans filter...I would.
Do you have a Carquest in your area ? It's the only place that stocks Amsoil around here.
EDIT: Also, re-evaluate, make sure all this is worth it to you. I mean, you already have a nice rebuilt trans sitting there. AND because all that worked for me, doesn't mean it will work for you. Can't deny, there is that risk.
Do you have a Carquest in your area ? It's the only place that stocks Amsoil around here.
EDIT: Also, re-evaluate, make sure all this is worth it to you. I mean, you already have a nice rebuilt trans sitting there. AND because all that worked for me, doesn't mean it will work for you. Can't deny, there is that risk.
Last edited by Jbrew; 07-22-2016 at 11:50 PM.
#7
I don't know about magical lol, but it honestly has been called miracle fluid. How many miles on that 4r100 ? If you have a bunch of miles and it's just slipping a shift kit will help a lot. I ended putting a shift kit in mine since it was easy to do. They are about 100 bucks tho. I put in the Transgo tugger kit. Firmed up the shift points quite a bit. Not sure if they make that kit anymore, - someone probably makes a kit for it though. Thought I would mention it since your probably going to pull the pan to change the trans filter...I would.
Do you have a Carquest in your area ? It's the only place that stocks Amsoil around here.
EDIT: Also, re-evaluate, make sure all this is worth it to you. I mean, you already have a nice rebuilt trans sitting there. AND because all that worked for me, doesn't mean it will work for you. Can't deny, there is that risk.
Do you have a Carquest in your area ? It's the only place that stocks Amsoil around here.
EDIT: Also, re-evaluate, make sure all this is worth it to you. I mean, you already have a nice rebuilt trans sitting there. AND because all that worked for me, doesn't mean it will work for you. Can't deny, there is that risk.
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#8
Senior Member
Ok, I finally took the plung and bought a rebuilt 4r100 transmission for my 2000 F150. Reason being, it slips when it's hot outside, when it's cool the truck shifts perfectly but since I'm living in sunny Phoenix AZ, it's rarely cool. I have a 1000lb motorcycle jack, bottle jacks and plenty of hand tools but is there any special procedures I may need to follow or tools to buy before I commit to this project? Plus the 4r100 has been sitting on a shelf in a garage for almost a year, now I'm thinking this might be a bad idea?
*disconnect battery
*jack the front of the truck up as high as you can and support with jack stands - I use a 3.5 ton floor jack and some very tall 6 ton jack stands
*remove both drive shafts
*remove the shift linkage
*disconnect all electrical connections from transmission (main harness connector, MLPS, OSS - anything related to transfer case)
*remove the starter
*un-bolt and remove the transmssision inspection cover
*remove the torque converter nuts
*disconnect the transmission cooler lines
protip - remove the passenger side rear 02 sensor and exhaust heat shield for extra room to get the cooler line fittings
*disconnect the exhaust pipe slip band and slide it back - located directly behind the Y-pipe.
*release tension on the torsion bars - you need a special tool for this
*remove the torsion bar hanger/subframe - leave the torsion bars mounted in the front control arm
*remove the transfer case
*remove all the transmission bell housing bolts EXCEPT the top 2
*unbolt the transmission mount from the cross-member, support the transmission with a jack and remove the transmission cross-member
*lower the jack, let the transmission, engine and exhaust hang to get enough room to access the top bell housing bolts - I use a 2 foot extension to get to these top bolts.
*separate the transmission from the engine - might have to use a pry bar or large screw driver.
I leave the exhaust attached to the engine and use my transmission jack w/swivel head to tilt the transmission down to get it out. I use the same method to install it. Since you are using a fixed motorcycle jack it may not work as well, OR you may need to remove the front half of the exhaust system from the engine for adequate room.
#9
Senior Member
Ufff, I didn't even notice. I thought it looked small, blew it off figuring it was 2wd. Yea , didn't give it much thought. Anyway, yours should look like the E4OD top right.
#10
Senior Member
Well anyway, now that we have your pictures x2 in this thread.
First you need to find out what's up with them giving you the wrong trans.
If you want to attempt to save yours, I documented some of mine for myself just in case, so I can help yuh there.
As far as removal and install, shoot me your email and I can send the file from service in a email. It's a little large since it contains diagrams, but it outlines everything.
Hope you get it figured out.
First you need to find out what's up with them giving you the wrong trans.
If you want to attempt to save yours, I documented some of mine for myself just in case, so I can help yuh there.
As far as removal and install, shoot me your email and I can send the file from service in a email. It's a little large since it contains diagrams, but it outlines everything.
Hope you get it figured out.
Last edited by Jbrew; 07-24-2016 at 12:12 AM.