Super rough shifting Manual Trans
#1
Super rough shifting Manual Trans
2003 v6 with a 5 speed manual trans, 4x4.
I have had this problem forever. I have had it looked at 6 times by different mechanics and it has never been resolved. Before it was bearable but now it is nearly impossible to drive.
1st, my clutch pedal is loose. I can depress it about half way to the floor before it stiffens up. No one can seam to give me a stiff clutch pedal like I should have.
2nd, I can barely get it into first/Reverse gear because it is essentially locked out of 1st gear. Same thing with reverse. I will be sitting at a light when it turns green for 5-10 seconds trying to get it into first but can't. Sometime I have to force it into 2nd which is also a chore and start in 2nd just to get it going.
It is bad even while driving and shift between all gears. Shifting is the opposite of smooth, lumping between gears and having to be forced many times into gear.
What would cause the transmission to 'lock' my shifting lever out of gear? (similar to how if you are coast at high speed, your trans prevents you from shifting into 1st gear say - its the same thing only even at a dead stop I cannot put it into 1st)
I have had both the master and salve cylinder replaced twice. That provided temporary relief but within a week or two it was back. I've had the clutch bleed and that also gave temporary relief, but after a week or two is was back again.
It is getting worse and some day soon I know I will be left stranded at a green light unable to put the truck in gear. I hope someone can tell me what is going on as I think this is a fairly common problem - my friends Ranger does the same thing
I have had this problem forever. I have had it looked at 6 times by different mechanics and it has never been resolved. Before it was bearable but now it is nearly impossible to drive.
1st, my clutch pedal is loose. I can depress it about half way to the floor before it stiffens up. No one can seam to give me a stiff clutch pedal like I should have.
2nd, I can barely get it into first/Reverse gear because it is essentially locked out of 1st gear. Same thing with reverse. I will be sitting at a light when it turns green for 5-10 seconds trying to get it into first but can't. Sometime I have to force it into 2nd which is also a chore and start in 2nd just to get it going.
It is bad even while driving and shift between all gears. Shifting is the opposite of smooth, lumping between gears and having to be forced many times into gear.
What would cause the transmission to 'lock' my shifting lever out of gear? (similar to how if you are coast at high speed, your trans prevents you from shifting into 1st gear say - its the same thing only even at a dead stop I cannot put it into 1st)
I have had both the master and salve cylinder replaced twice. That provided temporary relief but within a week or two it was back. I've had the clutch bleed and that also gave temporary relief, but after a week or two is was back again.
It is getting worse and some day soon I know I will be left stranded at a green light unable to put the truck in gear. I hope someone can tell me what is going on as I think this is a fairly common problem - my friends Ranger does the same thing
#3
A few things are coming to mind. Since you say it gets better for a week or so after replacing or bleeding the system. Sounds like possible air is getting into the system? Does the fluid level in the clutch change at all? Is the proper oil in your trans? Not sure if this is still a common problem but years ago i had a 89 or so. Had the same symptoms of hard first and revers. Was a common issue for them for the syncros to get rounded over. Was a easy fix as long as you have a day to re and re your tranny. Took it out pulled out the bad syncro and just took a file and cleaned up all the teeth. Never had a issue with it again. As far as a hard clutch i find these pretty darn light compared to my diesel.
#4
Would worn syncros affect the shifting while the truck is off though? Sorry, I know nothing about transmissions.
And I dont mean my clutch pedal is hard, I mean its only useful through the second half of the range of motion. The first half is so lose it doesn't do anything.
And I dont mean my clutch pedal is hard, I mean its only useful through the second half of the range of motion. The first half is so lose it doesn't do anything.
#5
When the truck is off nothing is spinning that's why wit works with engine off. Now with the engine running everything is spinning The clutch when pressed is what is slowing down stopping the spinning. With engine running how is it to shift into other gears? When stopped
#6
while running but not moving, 1st is very difficult to shift into. same with 5th and Reverse, as in I cant get it into those gears without a lot of struggle. 2nd is still difficult and rough, 3rd and 4th are rough too but not as bad
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#8
Yes I had the whole clutch replaced 6 months and less than 10,000 miles ago. the old clutch still had plenty of meat on it but it was replaced anyways.
I've had 4 different mechanic shops look at it over the years, including the dealership twice. I have no intention of wasting any more money on it unless I can find out what the issue is and can tell the shop exactly what I want done. Its either that or replace the entire transmission completely
I've had 4 different mechanic shops look at it over the years, including the dealership twice. I have no intention of wasting any more money on it unless I can find out what the issue is and can tell the shop exactly what I want done. Its either that or replace the entire transmission completely
#9
A guy at work this its might be some sort of safety sensor that has gone bad. LIke a speed sensor or RPM sensor which controls the 'gates' allowing me to switch gears.
Can anyone further explain?
Can anyone further explain?
#10
I would almost say that your clutch has a air lock in it. and has never been properly bled. Grab a friend and try to bleed again.
Also if yo uhave had this many shops work on it why have you not taken it back to them to fix properly. Most good shops will fix the problem and not charge for parts that did not fix it. its their job to fix it right they are the tech. If we wanted someone to just throw parts at it and hop it fixed it we could just do that ourself