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One will have IWE'S and the other axle splines, however drilling the front hub should be extremely easy on the 4x4 unlike the 2wd
Yeah, the 2wd front hub/rotor combo is a royal bitch since it's a combined unit. Makes it a little tough to work with. 4wd can drill the hubs with rotors out of the way, then drill rotors afterwards or the reversed order.
What does IWE's stand for? I'm not familiar with the abbreviation. And do you mean by, one generation has the "IWE's" while the other is axle splines?
Yeah, the 2wd front hub/rotor combo is a royal bitch since it's a combined unit. Makes it a little tough to work with. 4wd can drill the hubs with rotors out of the way, then drill rotors afterwards or the reversed order.
What does IWE's stand for? I'm not familiar with the abbreviation. And do you mean by, one generation has the "IWE's" while the other is axle splines?
integrated wheel ends. Rather than the diff being vacuum actuated, the hubs are on the late models
integrated wheel ends. Rather than the diff being vacuum actuated, the hubs are on the late models
The hubs splines are the same. I have been given the wrong CVs a couple times. They are about 1/2 longer. The problem is the 11+ gens have a independent wheel engagement. They are vacuum acuated. I we delete rings are easy to find. What I'm trying to figure is a way to basically swap the lower control arm along with spindle. I know a custom upper will have to be made. I'm trying to kill many birds with one stone. Better wheel selection, better brakes, better steering geometry along with getting rid of torsion bars. I will have some of parts from a 12th gen soon so I have actual comparison. From what I have gathered from engineering drawings with dimensions to pull it off correctly will require a 4" lift.
The hubs splines are the same. I have been given the wrong CVs a couple times. They are about 1/2 longer. The problem is the 11+ gens have a independent wheel engagement. They are vacuum acuated. I we delete rings are easy to find. What I'm trying to figure is a way to basically swap the lower control arm along with spindle. I know a custom upper will have to be made. I'm trying to kill many birds with one stone. Better wheel selection, better brakes, better steering geometry along with getting rid of torsion bars. I will have some of parts from a 12th gen soon so I have actual comparison. From what I have gathered from engineering drawings with dimensions to pull it off correctly will require a 4" lift.
Might as well raptor swap it then, with up control arms to match. Mid travel would be nice
Might as well raptor swap it then, with up control arms to match. Mid travel would be nice
Yes that would be nice. But first trying to figure out what to make it work. Becauseven Raptor parts aren't cheap. And with the right geometry and uni ***** mid travel can be had easily with a decent bypass coil over. I'd love to be able to get added track width, suspension travel and better steering with having to lift the truck. I have no use for a lifted truck.
Yes that would be nice. But first trying to figure out what to make it work. Becauseven Raptor parts aren't cheap. And with the right geometry and uni ***** mid travel can be had easily with a decent bypass coil over. I'd love to be able to get added track width, suspension travel and better steering with having to lift the truck. I have no use for a lifted truck.
You nor me my friend. Mine has a three inch body but it has come in handy a couple of times.
So I did a think this weekend the drivers side of the box was bouncing alot when hitting bumps and such so i took out the drop in bed liner to find that the whole drivers side of the boxwas rusted out keep in mind i just bought this truck about 2 months ago, and already put some money into it but no worries i bought some steel and spot welded the bed back together i think it looks really good let me know what you think i cut the rust off in a straight line to the hole was a little bigger then original but made for a easier weld.
So I did a think this weekend the drivers side of the box was bouncing alot when hitting bumps and such so i took out the drop in bed liner to find that the whole drivers side of the boxwas rusted out keep in mind i just bought this truck about 2 months ago, and already put some money into it but no worries i bought some steel and spot welded the bed back together i think it looks really good let me know what you think i cut the rust off in a straight line to the hole was a little bigger then original but made for a easier weld.
03-31-2017, 02:48 PM
that was some nasty rust 
