2001 f150 S-Crew
09-05-2020, 05:28 PM
#1
2001 f150 S-Crew
So I have been perusing the interwebs lately looking for fender flares for my 2001 F150 S-Crew and my efforts have thus far been fruitless. I am considering some 4 inch bulge fenders on the rear but I dislike the look of the bulge fenders on the front. Has anyone ever modified the front fenders with sheet metal by cutting and extending the lip on the fenders on one of our trucks? I'm looking to extend them out about 3 inches so I can put some wider tires and some 2 inch spacers on the truck. If anyone has some images of this particular method on these trucks being done please show. I am trying to stay away from the rivet on look so I can keep a sporty street look more than an off road look. The truck has been lowered and the rear still needs to be lowered another inch for the desired look but just wanted to see if anyone had tried this method on our trucks.
09-05-2020, 07:08 PM
#2
Senior Member
I don't think you'll ever find any new metal flares. A common way to do what you want is to pick up some aftermarket fenders, they don't need to necessarily be from the same truck or year (within reason) and make the new flares from them. Decide where you want the flare to start and use a fender lip roller the lay out what you need to cut on the existing fender or install the new fenders if you get same fenders and then cut those. The lip roller works great for laying out the cut based on the wheels. They're not made for this but using it as a compass will ensure the same cut on both fenders. Use the other 2 fenders to make your flares from. Layout what you need to form the flares plus 3 or 4 inches and then cut those out. Form and shape the cutout as needed for your flare design and weld them in. The advantage of using existing fenders is the strength, stability and rigidity is built in to the flare blank. Even if you want to change the wheel opening shape it can be done once installed and you already have a lip roller. 
Making the flares with an existing lip makes making them a whole lot easier. They are much less likely to move as they are formed and shaped. Trim as needed with leaving about 5\8ths to 3\4 of an inch on the flare welding edge so a weld recess\step can be added. Using a weld recess or step allows for welding the flare on both sides leaving a much stronger seam. Set the flare in place with clecos, tack weld the flare in place then finish the weld.
Making the flares with an existing lip makes making them a whole lot easier. They are much less likely to move as they are formed and shaped. Trim as needed with leaving about 5\8ths to 3\4 of an inch on the flare welding edge so a weld recess\step can be added. Using a weld recess or step allows for welding the flare on both sides leaving a much stronger seam. Set the flare in place with clecos, tack weld the flare in place then finish the weld.
09-05-2020, 07:31 PM
#3
I don't think you'll ever find any new metal flares. A common way to do what you want is to pick up some aftermarket fenders, they don't need to necessarily be from the same truck or year (within reason) and make the new flares from them. Decide where you want the flare to start and use a fender lip roller the lay out what you need to cut on the existing fender or install the new fenders if you get same fenders and then cut those. The lip roller works great for laying out the cut based on the wheels. They're not made for this but using it as a compass will ensure the same cut on both fenders. Use the other 2 fenders to make your flares from. Layout what you need to form the flares plus 3 or 4 inches and then cut those out. Form and shape the cutout as needed for your flare design and weld them in. The advantage of using existing fenders is the strength, stability and rigidity is built in to the flare blank. Even if you want to change the wheel opening shape it can be done once installed and you already have a lip roller. Making the flares with an existing lip makes making them a whole lot easier. They are much less likely to move as they are formed and shaped. Trim as needed with leaving about 5\8ths to 3\4 of an inch on the flare welding edge so a weld recess\step can be added. Using a weld recess or step allows for welding the flare on both sides leaving a much stronger seam. Set the flare in place with clecos, tack weld the flare in place then finish the weld.
Making the flares with an existing lip makes making them a whole lot easier. They are much less likely to move as they are formed and shaped. Trim as needed with leaving about 5\8ths to 3\4 of an inch on the flare welding edge so a weld recess\step can be added. Using a weld recess or step allows for welding the flare on both sides leaving a much stronger seam. Set the flare in place with clecos, tack weld the flare in place then finish the weld.
09-05-2020, 08:27 PM
#4
Senior Member
i actually found this video of how this guy did it on a different type of car but I could see it being quite effective. I don't know if linking a youtube video is against the site rules but if it is then this will probably be removed but it shows the technique after the halfway point of the video but it looks like it would work. Here's the link https://youtu.be/xAFXpo1bSTo I haven't seen any flares for this specific truck at all actually but I thought about the universal ones but I've heard a lot of negative about their fitment.
09-05-2020, 08:34 PM
#5
There's a lot non-metal flares available. Seems the only difference between any of the fenders are the trim options. The screw doesn't have unique fenders by the Ford parts list. Using a link is fine but using a program that posts you tube with "youtu.be/xAFXpo1STo" isn't useable for some of us. I think it was said it's good for google (chrome?) instead of the other programs like internet explorer.
09-05-2020, 10:32 PM
#6
Senior Member
Okay I had been told since mine is the s-crew xlt that the ones that fit others wouldn't work. I never understood why since I was looking at cut out ones since that was the route I figured I would take but they said do not fit your vehicle. I was kind of reserved to the idea that I was stuck with a diy method.
Last edited by River1; 09-05-2020 at 10:35 PM.
09-05-2020, 10:36 PM
#7
That was what I thought. At least I know a little bit about shaping metal since blacksmithing is one of my hobbies I should be able to figure out something if nothing else I have the method the guy used in that video as a backup plan.