Save 'old betsy' or scrap her. P0401 Code
#1
Save 'old betsy' or scrap her. P0401 Code
Here goes.....Been reading a lot of posts here on this issue. I have a 1999 Ford F150 4.6L 2wd Ext Cab with 230k miles. I have owned her for the last 15 years or so. About a couple weeks ago she started to shutter and she would accelerate decelerate by herself while in park or driving, rpms would go up and down, rough idle maximum speed would go was 40 mph. I was finally able to baby her home being 60 miles away from home. She has had work done awhile ago like replaced both upstream O2 sensor, DPFE sensor and EGR valve and Intake manifold gasket. She now sits in the backyard just rotting away. I am torn between trying to get her fixed and throwing more parts at her or parting her out and getting whatever monies I can from her. She is really a great truck and I would like to keep her as my 'outside' camping fishing work truck that I don't have to worry about getting any scratches dents paint etc. I know I have gotten my great years and miles out of her but it was pretty hard being far away from home broke down with the mrs. and being that it was on Sunday there where no mechanic shops open in the area. So I went ahead against my wishes and bought a new 2017 F150 V6 Sport supercrew with eco boost. I hate car payments !! I honestly want to try and save her like I said from the junkyard, I know she is still a good truck. Any one with suggestions help mechanics etc would be greatly appreciated. I am not a mechanic just enough to get myself in trouble so bear with me. Thanks all in advance Frank
#2
Senior Member
It accelerates and decelerates on it's own, -won't go above 40 ?
There's just one thing which will cause that...well perhaps two things. First is limp or fail safe mode but you would most definitely have a DTC. The check engine light need not be illuminated to store this code. So no other codes popped up on the scanner?
2nd, -If you haven't a DTC, clogged converters could also produce the symptoms your describing.
____________________
Yea, the 401 DTC won't cause a drivability issue. Those are an easy fix. A 402 will since that has to do with a EGR popet valve failer. The first thing I'd do since it takes seconds is pull the green line off the EGR valve....just disconnect it real quick and see how she runs. It will be at 100% again if it's a EVR issue, - which can compromise the EGR.
That truck looks to good to let rot.
There's just one thing which will cause that...well perhaps two things. First is limp or fail safe mode but you would most definitely have a DTC. The check engine light need not be illuminated to store this code. So no other codes popped up on the scanner?
2nd, -If you haven't a DTC, clogged converters could also produce the symptoms your describing.
____________________
Yea, the 401 DTC won't cause a drivability issue. Those are an easy fix. A 402 will since that has to do with a EGR popet valve failer. The first thing I'd do since it takes seconds is pull the green line off the EGR valve....just disconnect it real quick and see how she runs. It will be at 100% again if it's a EVR issue, - which can compromise the EGR.
That truck looks to good to let rot.
#3
It bothers me when someone calls their vehicle "her" or "she" in excess of 50 times. It sounds like a weird automobile fetish or something.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: South-central Ohio
Posts: 6,548
Likes: 0
Received 486 Likes
on
273 Posts
Nah- our vehicles have heart!- i cant count the times my old vehicles have got my butt home when, by all rights, it should'nt have. You kind of get a sentimental attachment after a while!
The following users liked this post:
y2kdejesus (10-30-2017)
#5
No longer stuck in 2003
I'd almost start with the cats, you say you replaced the upper O2 sensors but not the lowers? Also get a sensor that can read pending codes. I'd suspect you probably have a code or two throwing if nothing else.
Edit: If the underbody is as clean as the body appears I'd definitely fix it. That's just me though. At least fix it and sell it, in the KC area that'd go for at least $5,000 on craigslist.
Edit: If the underbody is as clean as the body appears I'd definitely fix it. That's just me though. At least fix it and sell it, in the KC area that'd go for at least $5,000 on craigslist.
Last edited by Aragorn; 10-30-2017 at 11:31 AM.
The following users liked this post:
y2kdejesus (10-30-2017)
#6
Fix it, or dont
But sell it. Even though it looks nice.
Old vehicles dont do well if not driven by routinely. And you have new daily driver. Fuel efficient.
Seals leak, fuel tank rusts, fuel pump fails, batt goes dead, been there . Eventually always something wrong. So it never gets driven, and just rots.
And hundreds per year just to keep liability ins. After a couple yrs.....cost more than value of truck. Simply not worth it imo.
Honestly, in a couple yrs, you come out ahead if you even give it away., Just by not payin insurance
But sell it. Even though it looks nice.
Old vehicles dont do well if not driven by routinely. And you have new daily driver. Fuel efficient.
Seals leak, fuel tank rusts, fuel pump fails, batt goes dead, been there . Eventually always something wrong. So it never gets driven, and just rots.
And hundreds per year just to keep liability ins. After a couple yrs.....cost more than value of truck. Simply not worth it imo.
Honestly, in a couple yrs, you come out ahead if you even give it away., Just by not payin insurance
Last edited by mbb; 10-30-2017 at 12:48 PM.
The following users liked this post:
y2kdejesus (10-30-2017)
#7
It accelerates and decelerates on it's own, -won't go above 40 ?
There's just one thing which will cause that...well perhaps two things. First is limp or fail safe mode but you would most definitely have a DTC. The check engine light need not be illuminated to store this code. So no other codes popped up on the scanner?
2nd, -If you haven't a DTC, clogged converters could also produce the symptoms your describing.
____________________
Yea, the 401 DTC won't cause a drivability issue. Those are an easy fix. A 402 will since that has to do with a EGR popet valve failer. The first thing I'd do since it takes seconds is pull the green line off the EGR valve....just disconnect it real quick and see how she runs. It will be at 100% again if it's a EVR issue, - which can compromise the EGR.
That truck looks to good to let rot.
There's just one thing which will cause that...well perhaps two things. First is limp or fail safe mode but you would most definitely have a DTC. The check engine light need not be illuminated to store this code. So no other codes popped up on the scanner?
2nd, -If you haven't a DTC, clogged converters could also produce the symptoms your describing.
____________________
Yea, the 401 DTC won't cause a drivability issue. Those are an easy fix. A 402 will since that has to do with a EGR popet valve failer. The first thing I'd do since it takes seconds is pull the green line off the EGR valve....just disconnect it real quick and see how she runs. It will be at 100% again if it's a EVR issue, - which can compromise the EGR.
That truck looks to good to let rot.
I also check for stored codes or pending codes and the obd reader said no codes stored or pending.
I reveed the engine and it idled steady and no surging or erractic up and down rpms but I didn't take it around the block to see if it starts acting weird again.
I called Ford dealer and they wanted $55 + tax for a evr. I think I can find it cheaper somewhere else.
I agree Jbrew truck is too good to just let it sit there and truck has gotten me everywhere until now, oh it also made it 2300 miles cross country back in Feb. before this.
Trending Topics
#8
Couldn't agree with you more.....It's an ugly feeling being stranded more than an hour from home with family and yes I too by all rights should have been left there on the road and the truck made it home ever so slowly. I just hope I didn't mess anything else up by pushing the truck over 60 miles like tranny or heads etc.
#9
I'd almost start with the cats, you say you replaced the upper O2 sensors but not the lowers? Also get a sensor that can read pending codes. I'd suspect you probably have a code or two throwing if nothing else.
Edit: If the underbody is as clean as the body appears I'd definitely fix it. That's just me though. At least fix it and sell it, in the KC area that'd go for at least $5,000 on craigslist.
Edit: If the underbody is as clean as the body appears I'd definitely fix it. That's just me though. At least fix it and sell it, in the KC area that'd go for at least $5,000 on craigslist.
I wonder how much new cat would run, I'm sure a pretty penny. I have been told it could be a clogged egr tube by a local here.
The body is solid and no rust underneath since it came from the southwest where no snow or salt present.
Yeah I would try and fix it and then sell it I wouldn't want to sell it like it is and then feel bad. I wouldn't want someone to do that to me. That's just me.
Last edited by y2kdejesus; 10-30-2017 at 08:47 PM. Reason: Forgot text
#10
Fix it, or dont
But sell it. Even though it looks nice.
Old vehicles dont do well if not driven by routinely. And you have new daily driver. Fuel efficient.
Seals leak, fuel tank rusts, fuel pump fails, batt goes dead, been there . Eventually always something wrong. So it never gets driven, and just rots.
And hundreds per year just to keep liability ins. After a couple yrs.....cost more than value of truck. Simply not worth it imo.
Honestly, in a couple yrs, you come out ahead if you even give it away., Just by not payin insurance
But sell it. Even though it looks nice.
Old vehicles dont do well if not driven by routinely. And you have new daily driver. Fuel efficient.
Seals leak, fuel tank rusts, fuel pump fails, batt goes dead, been there . Eventually always something wrong. So it never gets driven, and just rots.
And hundreds per year just to keep liability ins. After a couple yrs.....cost more than value of truck. Simply not worth it imo.
Honestly, in a couple yrs, you come out ahead if you even give it away., Just by not payin insurance