hertfordnc

Lots of great tips here. I really like the one about cutting teeth onto a copper pipe.


I have a couple things to add;

There seems to be a consensus on the web that mixture of acetone and ATF is the best thing for loosening stubborn threads, better than all the commercial products out there.

Someone suggested a 15mm socket but I'm not sure that will work. I find 17mm to be very close to 5/8. A 16mm should be a very snug fit, like within a few thousandths.


You could also grind the end of the socket to make it absolutely flat to grab as much of the hex as possible.

good luck

Jbrew

Yes, you got it now. Plugs don't jam in the threads unless they have been cross threaded. They are somewhat easy to cross, - the first 2 threads anyway then the plug will straighten on it's own going in...usually. This is why it's best to use a spare piece of 3/8" air hose to start then thread them in. If it's crossed though, it could be crooked in the chamber and hard to mount. I doubt it, but it's a possibility.

The most common, very common and almost always the case, debris has packed in at the bottom of the chamber preventing the socket to mount fully. You did say you tried to hammer it on right ? That packed it even more. So cut a piece of 3/4" copper tubing, then use dykes to cut in some teeth. That works unbelievable well and quick.

Let us know how it turns out.

Btw- I'm usually the jerk here, but ONLY with good reason.

mbb

Ive had a couple plugs so hard to turn in heads before left them long time out of fear of doing damage. Oil cooked in the threads acted like loctite. Eventually got courage to force out , no damage, but scary torque needed much of way

escodsm

Update

I seafoam'd the gas tank twice and the truck is running quite well.
When it's below 32 it still has a rough idle and is lazy on the pedal, but nothing like it was before.
I still plan on doing a tune up myself....and will update when I've made JBrew's copper tube tool and changed all 8 plugs.
If I leave the motor running and it's parked on a slight nose-down incline, the chugging idle appears and I can now smell burnt gas. (This happens daily when I drop off my 6-yr old son at school). That might be a clue. I have read on this forum other owners' issues with parking on an incline/fuel tank half full.
Lastly, when I top off the tank sometimes the fuel gauge bottoms out to way below "E", only to suddenly return to "F" and it does this back and forth randomly until I get to 1/2 tank on the gauge.

white89gt

Have you checked your fuel pressure yet? Changed the filter?

escodsm

Yes I changed the filter about 2 weeks ago. The old one was rusted to the framerail (original). Brown molasses poured out of it, and I couldn't blow through it at all...not even compressed air. Thinking of changing it again.

I haven't checked fuel pressure, do I need a special tool for that? I know I can find out how here in the forum....I'll look it up.

I had an "a-ha!" moment while watching a FordTechMakuloco video, where he had an '03 Expedition with the same freeze frame data I am getting (25% Long terms, lean codes, 2500 rpm) and he said "NOT a vacuum leak - at 2500 rpm your throttle plate is wide open negating any leaks - I will be adding BG44K"

I couldnt find that stuff locally so I used seafoam.

Jbrew

Easy on that Seafoam, - or any other additives, you probably already over did it lol. It's hell on the plugs and it don't take much to bridge them. Seafoams the worst.

In very little moderation use Techron if anything...folks always over do it. I swore off additives, there's enough in the fuel we buy. But yea, the plugs pay dearly using snake oil. Read the labels.

escodsm

Can you explain like I'm 5: bridging plugs?

Carcrazygts2

Causes excessive heat and the ground strap on the plug get hot and melts to the electrode.

Jbrew

ROFL - So what, you want pictures I expect, connect the dots maybe...crap, I left my book at the doctors office lol. I'll see if I can find some.