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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Rolled off the corners of a spark plug. Now what.

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Old 04-21-2017, 11:33 PM
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And the intake bolts
18lbft?
Old 04-21-2017, 11:45 PM
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The intake has to be staged. Heads have to be sanded (palm sander) then cleaned with lacquer thinner or alcohol.
Old 04-22-2017, 08:15 AM
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I noticed after I cleaned the intake runners, some of the port openings had jagged edges, what's up with that? As though someone took a hacksaw to them. But it's obviously factory and has never been changed. Looks like a manufacturing defect?

Also do the injectors spray into the intake ports directly? Also haven't ever seen that.
Old 04-22-2017, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by escodsm
I noticed after I cleaned the intake runners, some of the port openings had jagged edges, what's up with that? As though someone took a hacksaw to them. But it's obviously factory and has never been changed. Looks like a manufacturing defect?

Also do the injectors spray into the intake ports directly? Also haven't ever seen that.
I'm not sure what you mean, no runners here. I know what they are, that's about it.

The injectors only mount one way, - if that's the concern.
Old 04-23-2017, 09:59 PM
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UPDATE

It is done.

After getting the broken plug out the other day, I couldn't do any more work I just partied. The next morning, it was time to access the damage and clean the mess.

Step one, a quick thread chase done with a new Autolite plug with channels filed into it.
Went in like butter on a stack of pancakes, nice n smoove.

Then I had a neomagnet taped to a long, thin screwdriver and just went to work fishing for shiny stuff. I wanted to do this before using air to get the most use of the magnet.
The first pull, it looked like a morningstar with spikes in 360 degrees.
I cleaned it off and dipped again, same thing. I kept this up until I got nothing on the magnet, at all angles. Then I repeated this procedure for the rim around the plug threads inside the well.
I fired up my compressor. I needed air, and a lot of it. With the other 7 plugs cracked loose but still threaded in, and ALL ports blocked with rags, I fired air in there for a good 10 minutes. Then repeated the magnet procedure, got a little more, repeated the air blast, repeated the magnet, all was satisfactory.

I carefully hand-loaded each new Motorcraft plug with a bit of 3/8 rubber hose I had laying around. I treated those babies like they were made of glass.
I dabbed a bit of anti-seize on each and torqued them to 28 Ft -lbs.
Changed this plug first to see if it would torque. It held the 28 ft lbs no problem.
Then I did the others the same way.

Then I switched over to the problematic crossover pipe on the intake manifold.
There was a bolt on the tstat side that was frozen, and the head destroyed.
I cut the head off with a dremel, then drilled the shoulder off.
Interestingly, the remaining piece of bolt came out by hand, no problem. (WTF?)

Next I made sure both surfaces of the intake were cleaned up nice with emory cloth and brake clean to wash off residue. I mean I took like an hour and a half doing this, like it was off to Mecum or some s**t.

Back to the crossover, I used another bolt I had lying around that was the same thread pitch but a little too long; so I swapped it for the one that goes all the way through the housing.

Staged the intake with my father in law's tq wrench, mine only does ft-lbs.
Got everything put back nice nice, added the coolant I lost (2 gallons - 1 gal undiluted MC, 1 gal WalMart distilled water), burped it, ran heat on full blast, drove for 20 mins quite hard. Idle is dead locked on 750-775 area.

Before the drive and the coolant burp, the idle was horrendous, bouncing between 700 and 1000, so I am glad that it got its kinks worked out after the hot drive.

Took some pics of the old plugs, I think they're original, and with the exception of that bastard rusted one, and a couple blackened ones they're not in bad shape! Comment what you think of them





Before the extraction, with all the porcelain out, the ground strap is visible through the hole.



cyls 1 through 4, from left to right.<br/>#3 looks like it got really hot(lean) and they all had deposits and build up on the straps



cyls 5 through 8, left to right. Don't worry I broke the electrode off of #7 after it pulled out intact



1-4 from left to right, showing straps



1-7 left to right, ground straps
Old 04-23-2017, 10:01 PM
  #156  
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Holy cow I just realized looking at these pics, how thin the #7 ground strap is!

What does that mean? Found this online, says "Very Lean" - makes sense.



Last edited by escodsm; 04-23-2017 at 10:07 PM.
Old 04-23-2017, 10:43 PM
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Congrats! So you got 28' lbs on that plug w/anti-sieze ? Anti seize is a no no with these heads, hopw they stay in there for yuh.

Nope, plugs look normal. Normal for these engines are a little whitish or lean...your good there.
Old 04-24-2017, 07:01 AM
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Those aren't original plugs. Those appear to be fine tips (and nickle plated), plus they have the extra threads on them. The originals were only threaded about half way.


Old 04-24-2017, 09:59 AM
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Ahh, okay...thanks white89gt.

The two lean codes came back this morning on my way in to work.
I'd say this whole exercise was a waste of time but at least I improved the truck with new parts. Sigh.
Old 04-24-2017, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by escodsm

The two lean codes came back this morning on my way in to work.

I'd say this whole exercise was a waste of time but at least I improved the truck with new parts. Sigh.
What do lean codes have to do with it?

Waste of time?

Those comments make no sense....lost. How could you say that lol.



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