Replacing upper control arms and ball joints
#1
Replacing upper control arms and ball joints
Recently purchased 2003 F150 5.4 4WD. , 240k miles. Took it in for alignment but was informed that the ball joints should be replaced, boots are torn, and the control arms should be (or must be) replaced along with the ball joints. I am going to attempt to do this myself (quote was $400 parts, $200 labor).
I'm looking at RockAuto in the Daily Driver category and price for ACDelco is $45 each; Motorcraft is $80 each. This truck may get 1000 miles per year. Is the ACDelco one reliable enough?
Should I replace the Bushings too, while I'm down there? I'm not terribly sure what any of this does so it's hard to know what's needed or recommended.
I'm relatively green when it comes to car work but I don't mind getting my hands dirty and I have a good track record at being able to disassemble things. This is a fairly straightforward DIY, right? I just need a jack & stands, I think.
I'm looking at RockAuto in the Daily Driver category and price for ACDelco is $45 each; Motorcraft is $80 each. This truck may get 1000 miles per year. Is the ACDelco one reliable enough?
Should I replace the Bushings too, while I'm down there? I'm not terribly sure what any of this does so it's hard to know what's needed or recommended.
I'm relatively green when it comes to car work but I don't mind getting my hands dirty and I have a good track record at being able to disassemble things. This is a fairly straightforward DIY, right? I just need a jack & stands, I think.
Last edited by slobdogg; 04-12-2019 at 03:14 PM.
#2
Senior Member
AC Delco is Chinese, FYI.
For upper control arms, I recommend you go with Moog Problem Solvers. They have a replaceable ball joint in them, and the factory design does not.
For the lower ball joint, there have been a lot of great stories about the Mevotech TTX (Terrain Tough) stories. That is what I am going to use next time. Moog Problem Solvers are also good for the lower.
For upper control arms, I recommend you go with Moog Problem Solvers. They have a replaceable ball joint in them, and the factory design does not.
For the lower ball joint, there have been a lot of great stories about the Mevotech TTX (Terrain Tough) stories. That is what I am going to use next time. Moog Problem Solvers are also good for the lower.
#3
For upper control arms, I recommend you go with Moog Problem Solvers. They have a replaceable ball joint in them, and the factory design does not.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtaKGPmfhXQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtaKGPmfhXQ
#4
Senior Member
It used to be. There are some things that I don't mind if they are Chinese - but suspension parts isn't one of them.
#5
What he said.
It's not a hard job it just takes a few hours.
Need a 2 lb hammer and ear plugs.
The hammer is the most important tool.
You may or may not need a ball joint press. I didn't use one.
Working on concrete simply support the lower control arm with a jack, and Hammer the old ball joint out being careful not to booger the edge of the hole. Then put the new ball joint on top of the jack, and Hammer the lower control arm down over the ball joint. Easy peasy. Just don't booger the edge of the hole..
$200 isn't a bad labor price at all. you can buy the parts for probably 250 if I recall correctly
Replace your anti sway bar links as well. unless they're fairly new the bolts are going to twist off when you try and undo them
It's not a hard job it just takes a few hours.
Need a 2 lb hammer and ear plugs.
The hammer is the most important tool.
You may or may not need a ball joint press. I didn't use one.
Working on concrete simply support the lower control arm with a jack, and Hammer the old ball joint out being careful not to booger the edge of the hole. Then put the new ball joint on top of the jack, and Hammer the lower control arm down over the ball joint. Easy peasy. Just don't booger the edge of the hole..
$200 isn't a bad labor price at all. you can buy the parts for probably 250 if I recall correctly
Replace your anti sway bar links as well. unless they're fairly new the bolts are going to twist off when you try and undo them
Last edited by mbb; 04-12-2019 at 06:18 PM.
#6
You might want to check for a complete kit.
I just did one for a Yukon and I think it was SKE or something like that. Not bad, just check the parts carefully upon arrival when dealing with Rockauto, they are not pleasant to deal with on a return even if it was their fault. Some of a lot of parts will come from all over the place, thus shipping gets weird.
Look on line for discount codes.
I just did one for a Yukon and I think it was SKE or something like that. Not bad, just check the parts carefully upon arrival when dealing with Rockauto, they are not pleasant to deal with on a return even if it was their fault. Some of a lot of parts will come from all over the place, thus shipping gets weird.
Look on line for discount codes.
#7
For the sway bar links, is that something that I should really do in tandem with the control arm? As in, are they accessed in the same process? Or can I do the sway links later?
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#8
Senior Member
You can do them later. Be prepared to remove them with a Sawzall if they are the originals though. The Moog Problem Solver end links are a MUCH better design than the originals.
#9
I recall it having to be removed, but im fuzzy.
And its ez to just twist them off. No need to cut.
They likely need to be replaced. The plastic budhings wear . Cheap , ez
And its ez to just twist them off. No need to cut.
They likely need to be replaced. The plastic budhings wear . Cheap , ez
Last edited by mbb; 04-12-2019 at 08:02 PM.
#10
Senior Member
Easier with a cut off, zip , other side zip ...done. You can't load up a socket and find a wrench that quick.