CrisAnderson27

Thanks a ton man, I absolutely will.

In the spirit of that btw, I downloaded Torque and Forscan. I had ordered a bluetooth OBD2 adapter (works great with Torque), but decided to do a laptop for WiFi...and I'm waiting for that to get here. Such cool tools! Now I just need to figure out what I need to monitor and what it should look like 😂.

I wish these trucks had a driveshaft speed sensor so I could monitor what's going into the trans vs what is coming out.

Oh, and out of curiosity, what big brake kit did you go with? I just did the front rotors, but I'll give them to my dad for his 03 if the front kit is reasonable.

For now though...back to work for me. Gotta pay for this ridiculousness somehow lol.

BareBonesXL

Read through your thread, didn't watch the videos. Can't tell what was actually replaced. Short block, long block, complete turn-key engine? Might be a clue.

CrisAnderson27

Hey there.

They replaced the entire engine assembly less intake, exhaust, and accessories. The new mill even came with oil.

Here's a few pictures:


Both motors.


Original motor.


Replacement.

Jbrew

Torque/Torque Pro are good..plus you can purchase additional PID's. Haven't tried FORScan myself . However,- it's more supportive to specific features of the manufacturer protocols..Ford/Mazda. More PIDs and updated frequently, -which is nice if your driving the latest generation of these trucks. I guess the biggest problem is knockoff ELM327 adapters or clones. Some clones will work, but the majority are bad lol. I forget the percentage rate but it's up there, like 75% of the 327's are bad. As in they work, just not very well...hindering. Anyway, you have to be picky on the adapters. That's what I got from research in the recent past.. we are adding a later model super duty to the family shortly. Will be using FORScan in the future.

___________________

As far as test data to make an accurate assessment. Do you have a Ford Service DVD for your model yet ? You can find these on E bay...I'm not sure if Amazon has them yet..doubt it. You should compare them well to determine which to purchase, info included isn't always the same with those. You want at least an official Ford Motor Co DVD. One that doesn't require you to modify the date on your comp to use it.


___________________

There is no VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) on your truck/model AFAIK. Later models function will be performed by one of the following: OSS (Output Shaft Speed) sensor, Transfer Case Speed sensor (TCS-present if 4X4), or the rear ABS sensor.

_____________________

The big brake swap requires installing larger rotors and calipers from different model. The set I went with is 01 Expy rotors and 03 7700 calipers. I also incorporated HD caliper release springs for zero drag with the heavier set up. It a 14mm set up on a 12mm hub assembly. Added centering bushings which are readily available, in order to perfectly center the 14mm set up on the 12mm hub. The tires I'm running now are 10 lbs heavier apiece vs OEM. Beefed up the brakes to accommodate that. Very impressed with how that worked out.
Since you have a later model, it has 14mm hubs/lugs. You won't conversion bushing. All you would need to do is go with a 03 7700 calipers (much stronger pin assemblies) and 01/02 Expy rotors/pads. Can't go 03 with the Expy parts, they changed the assembly in 03 or late in 02. Pads won't even work. This set is huge upgrade these 1/2 tons and yes, -even a little cheaper than the original junk.
I have a build thread on it, it's a book. That was because no one had done it in past to the model I have, - or have and didn't provide the information required. So I and a few others figured things out as it went. Wasn't easy, mainly do to the lack of specs which weren't offered on some of manufactures parts required for this upgrade. Anyway, the build link if interested, -

https://www.f150forum.com/f6/f150-ex...2016-a-353103/

___________________

Yup, back to work here as well,

CrisAnderson27

I enjoy books lol...particularly educational books. I also totally get the 'figuring it out because no one has ever done it before' thing. I converted my 68 Cougar front end to tubular using hand made lower control arms, tie rods, and strut rods...03 Mach 1 spindles and brakes with strange 10 way adjustable coil overs...Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates...and a Mustang II rack. I literally redesigned everything lol. It's not a running vehicle yet...but it should work.

If not...it was fun anyway, and I can just weld a Mustang II setup under there lol.

I made a video today for one of my tech friends to look at (he was asking about fuel trims and timing)...and thought you guys might find it interesting too. I found a screen recorder for my Andriod, and recorded about 9 minutes of driving around with Torque, including low speed, 55mph cruise, and a couple hard pulls to 90mph or so on the freeway. I'll set the start timer to begin at the last freeway pull, as it's very telling, but you can scroll back to the beginning if you're interested. It took 49 seconds...literally FORTY-NINE SECONDS...to get through 2nd gear with the truck floored...the last part of which was a slight downhill. Makes me want to cry.

Jbrew

Yea we never did get which motor build you went with. There's 3 types and only 2 are worth a snot.

1. Official Ford Crate engine, from Ford Motor.
2. Official Ford Re-Manufactured engine, by Ford Motor Co.
3. Ford Re-Manufactured engine, by who knows.

#3 is the type they have a lot of problems with. Quite a few 3rd party builders cut every corner possible. If your engine didn't come right from Ford to the shop you had it installed...I'd warranty it, not even attempt to go any further..unless these were per-existing issues with your truck. So make absolutely sure who's Ford engine you bought.

CrisAnderson27

I see what you're asking. It's a Ford Warranted Re-Manufactured engine, and came from Tyler Ford in OK City. 3yr unlimited mile warranty at any Ford dealership. Has a Ford stamped vin plate on the driver's side of the block.

Jbrew

That's great!

Jbrew

What is the warm idle rpms in park, exactly ? Be precise or this won't help.

CrisAnderson27

I thought so lol. When I went to the dealer last week though, they really gave me a runaround on it. Wanted the original invoice from Ford to the repair shop (why would I have the original invoice to the repair shop?). They also said that if anything outside of the motor caused any damage...they wouldn't cover it. It really gave me the feeling that that warranty isn't worth a hell of a lot.

On a more directly related note...could my torque converter, and more specifically the lock up portion...have anything to do with this? I'm not 150% up to speed on how modern lock up converters work (seriously, I avoid messing with automatics like the plague)...but it seems to me if this thing is locking up too early it might not let the motor accelerate properly under full throttle loads. That's really when it seems to struggle. Part throttle driving around it runs just fine. When I kick down to pass or accelerate...it's end-game dead.

What made me think of this, is the fact that I have an odd squeal sound just as it shifts gears under full throttle. It sounds almost like the serpentine belt is slipping (describing the sound, not where or what I think it is...it's definitely shift related).