Removed instrument cluster to fix odometer, reinstalled and now won’t start.
 

I removed my instrument cluster to fix the common 10th gen odometer problem, re soldered the joints that were cracked, then put the instrument cluster back together and reinstalled it. The truck now just cranks but doesn’t start. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, because it’s the original and has 213K and makes terrible noises so I thought it finally died. I plugged in my OBD2 scanner, and I have a code for “Theft Detected, Vehicle Immobilized” What can I do to fix this? I had no idea removing my instrument cluster would trigger the PATS. If I had I probably never would have. I disconnected my battery, then disconnected the PCM and I’m leaving it like that overnight. Let me know if that would do anything or if there’s something else I have to do to get it running again.
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Question:
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer. The car doesn't start and when I retrieve codes I am getting a P1260 - Theft Detected, Engine Disabled. What can I do about this Ford engine light code?

Answer:
Thanks for contacting us with your Ford engine light question. P1260 indicates that the Passive Anti Theft system (PATS) detected a "theft condition". This basically means an incorrect signal, or no signal at all was received from the chipped key. Brief overview: your ignition key has a chip in it called a transponder that is read by the PATS transceiver (mounted around the ignition cylinder housing behind the column shroud). The signal is then sent to the PATS control module, which communicates with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and enables the vehicle to start. Sorry for all the acronyms! When an incorrect signal is received, the PATS module then sends this message to the PCM which triggers the P1260 trouble code, resulting in a no start condition. Possible causes are: an incorrect key being used, faulty key chip (transponder), wiring concerns between the transceiver module and PATS module, the transceiver module itself or internal PATS or PCM module concerns. The first thing to do in this instance is retrieve codes from the PATS module and diagnose these. Once the PATS issues have been resolved you can reset the P1260. Communication with the PATS module will likely need to be done at a Ford dealer. A few things to check first: make sure the correct key is being used, and if you have a second key, try that one as well. If one key starts it but not the other, you may have a faulty key. If both keys do not work, then it is not likely a key problem. Honestly, we see very few problems with the keys themselves. Make sure no one has tampered with the steering column shroud as the transceiver module located behind it is fairly fragile. Lastly check for an aftermarket remote start system. These are a common cause of no start problems with PATS equipped vehicles. Some installers will remove the chip from your key and tape it to the column (under the shroud). This basically bypasses the system and allows it to be started without a chipped key. The problem is that the transponder removed from the key is not designed to be used in this way and can fail due to extreme temperature changes and, depending on mounting condition, excessive vibration and shock. Other installers use a "key box" installed under the dash, and these have been known to cause issues as well. If you suspect the concern to be related to a remote start it may not be a bad idea to have it checked or removed to complete diagnosis. I hope this information has been helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance or clarification on any of this. Have a great day!
Mike
www.engine-light-help.com

Thanks. I think this will be helpful.

Are you sure everything was plugged back in (and fully seated) to the back of the cluster?

It shouldn't need reprogrammed.

That’s what I thought the problem was when I figured out it was a PATS problem. Nope. I reinstalled everything again to be sure and still have the same problem. I’m leaving the battery out and PCM disconnected until tomorrow and I hope that fixes it. Fingers crossed.

How far did you have it torn down? Did you by chance remove the receiver ring around the key cylinder or maybe forget to plug this harness back in? Looks about like this...

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I just removed the trim around the cluster, the headlight switch, and the trim around the steering column. I don’t think I removed that.

Well crap... I'm really interested in what you find. Let us know how you come out on this. I've never seen this happen on one of these 10th gens. Seen it on other (newer) Fords, but not these.

Yeah. I didn’t think I would have a problem because it’s an XL with crank windows and manual locks. No keyless entry or alarm or anything. I knew there was a theft light on the cluster I just never really thought about it.

Yeah removing the cluster shouldn't have tripped anything. I've taken mine out plenty of times (I still need to fix my odo lol)

Are you fairly comfortable with soldering? You didn't overheat the board and fry something? Or added solder and got some where it should be?

I know you said you've checked everything but I'm still with white, it sounds like something isn't plugged up or fully seated. Maybe try pushing each wire into the plug in case one got tugged on and is loose in the connector.