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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

remove exhaust system

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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 12:16 PM
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Default remove exhaust system

1998 F-150 5.4L 4x4 automatic- cab and a half (one back door on pass side) - XLT- I don't know the trim or wheel base.. VIN# 1FTRX18L1WNB55742
#1- After trying to remove left O2 sensor, I gave up working in that limited space, while there is still something to weld a nut on, and decided to remove from manifolds back to 1st separation point. Not sure where that is and would appreciate any tips from someone who has done it. A parts diagram with names of parts would be nice. Just replaced all: plugs, coils, and fuel injectors. The 1st (left O2 sensor) broke in half because it was so rusted all around there, and I found the other 3 are even rusted worse. I'm sure they will be failing soon.

#2- Shifting was hard from day of ownership. Now shift indicator is off center and to the left. Have to start in neutral and "feel" the gear I'm in. Must start in neutral and park in any gear except Park, using e-brake because the parking pawl does not engage. How can I check to see if I need the cable assembly along with The "neutral safety switch? Any other info as well would be appreciated.

Last edited by rgfoote; Aug 7, 2020 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 01:29 PM
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You need to be more specific as to "left" O2 sensor. Passenger side, I presume? Closest to motor or rear tire?

Soak them in Kroil or 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Spray some on there every couple hours for a day or two. I had to use a pipe wrench on my Expedition....
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 01:55 PM
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Left is drivers side.
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 02:36 PM
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That's why I am asking Mr. Foote what he means. To me, the worst O2 sensor to get to is the passenger side front.

Last edited by white89gt; Aug 7, 2020 at 02:38 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
That's why I am asking Mr. Foote what he means. To me, the worst O2 sensor to get to is the passenger side front.
Yea , he might not know right from left yet on a vehicle. Never know, wouldn't be the the first time..
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 03:36 PM
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Actually gentleman, I learned a long time ago when ordering tons of collision parts, that with ALL vehicles EVERYTHING is described with you being in the driver's seat. But I should have said left front. I also thought since I was posting in "1997 - 2003 Ford F150", that (why am I blue after typing in the name of this forum?) it wouldn't be necessary because everything is the same within those years., sorry.
I will edit the 1st post, thanks!
1998 F-150 5.4L 4x4 automatic- cab and a half (one back door on pass side) - XLT- Lariat. I don't know the trim or wheel base..

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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 03:49 PM
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In the service everything was identified as Pilot right or left and GC right or left. GC = Ground crew Pilot was from seated in the aircraft and GC was facing the aircraft. This solved any potential problems. Just thought I'd add this bit of trivia.
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rgfoote
1998 F-150 5.4L 4x4 automatic- cab and a half (one back door on pass side) - XLT- I don't know the trim or wheel base.. VIN# 1FTRX18L1WNB55742
#1- After trying to remove left O2 sensor, I gave up working in that limited space, while there is still something to weld a nut on, and decided to remove from manifolds back to 1st separation point. Not sure where that is and would appreciate any tips from someone who has done it. A parts diagram with names of parts would be nice. Just replaced all: plugs, coils, and fuel injectors. The 1st (left O2 sensor) broke in half because it was so rusted all around there, and I found the other 3 are even rusted worse. I'm sure they will be failing soon.

#2- Shifting was hard from day of ownership. Now shift indicator is off center and to the left. Have to start in neutral and "feel" the gear I'm in. Must start in neutral and park in any gear except Park, using e-brake because the parking pawl does not engage. How can I check to see if I need the cable assembly along with The "neutral safety switch? Any other info as well would be appreciated.
To remove the y-pipe in one piece you need to remove the frame cross member that holds up the transmission. I had a blown out front right cat last summer, or was it the summer before? I also needed to replace the muffler so instead of removing the cross member and dealing with both manifolds I cut the y-pipe in half. This summer the left front cat showed a small rust hole so I was happy that I cut the y-pipe and only have to deal with one manifold and the coupler at the y-pipe cut.

I don't expect to be able to remove any of the o2 sensors intact due to corrosion. I tried to remove one last summer, or the summer before, and found the aluminum to steel connection completely pooched. I did finally remove it but the threads on the sensor were as though they never existed. I jb'd the sensor back in it's hole and it's been fine so far. If I have an o2 sensor go out in the future I know it will require making a bung on my lathe and welding it to the existing or new pipe.

I also have had recent experience with the shifter problems. First thing you'd want to do is tighten the bracket that sits on the end of the shifter lever, way up inside your dash. Some have done it without taking the dash panels out but it's easier if you do remove them. While you're in there you can adjust the position of your shift indicator (after you tighten the bracket). Next thing to do is replace the shifter bushings while you're in there. I did these two things and my shifter is like brand new. The truck still won't start without shifter gymnastics but that's a different problem.

Go ahead and replace your neutral safety switch because it's cheap and it probably needs to be replaced anyways. Better to do it in nice weather. While you're under there you can assess your shifter cable situation. Youtube says the cable end is a simple thing to adjust but I haven't attempted it yet. I'm thinking that my starting problem might be fixed by clocking the neutral safety switch slightly counter-clockwise to take up the slack it seems to have. I'll get back on that after I get my truck off blocks.
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 07:47 PM
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01-7700: I liked your chat, Are you saying the part of the sensor that has the threads are aluminum?
I found a few holes in the pipes today as I was wd40 -ing the system as I'm waiting for the parts. I wonder if I should have ordered the cat sensors as well? I can see the o2 sensors are a rust thru malfunction waiting to happen. I'm going to get the neutral SS and a muffler too. If I need some pieces and/or reducers, I'll probably get them local unless they are too high priced. Yes, do keep in touch and thanks!
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Old Aug 7, 2020 | 07:54 PM
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FYI... WD-40 is not nearly as good as Kroil, Acetone/ATF, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster. You'll be better off switching your juice to a better product.

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