Rear Axle Seals and Bearings
#1
Riding In The South
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Rear Axle Seals and Bearings
Alright i was under my truck the other day and noticed some black grease,sludge,liquid or whatever on the backside of my passenger drum/rotor. Did some research and looks like a rear axle seal. Now from what i hear it is not to difficult and i'm some what mechanically inclined. What i need to know is there a write up out there and should i go ahead and do the bearings. I'm going to do both sides if i do it. It's a 2000 f150 5.4 4wd. Plus is there any tricks or things to look for that might need to be replaced while it's tore down?
#3
Retired Aerospace
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Not bad, but no piece-of-cake:
Axle bearing/seal remove-replace is no big deal with the Ford C-clip axles.
Remove the drums or rotors.
Remove the diff cover.
Find the diff pinion gear shaft retaining bolt (lock pin) and remove it.
Remove the pinion shaft and pinion gears.
Push the axles inboard as far as they will go.
Remove the C-clips from the axle ends in the diff.
Pull the axles out of the axle housing.
Pull the axle oil seals out.
Pull the bearings out.
Check the bearing race surfaces on the axles to make sure they're in good shape....no grooves or obvious signs of wear.
Drive in new bearings.
Drive in new seals.
Push the axles back in place using care not the scuff the new seals.
Replace the C-clips.
Pull the axles outboard.
Replace the diff pinion gears and pinion shaft.
Replace and torque the pinion shaft retaining bolt (lock pin) 15-30 lb/ft.
Replace the diff cover, black silicon rubber seal, torque bolts 25-35 lb/ft.
Reinstall the brake system.
Refill with new 75W140 synthetic lube (and friction modifier if required for the limited-slip diff.)
Then sit down and eat your cake.
The following only if the rear end gear set is making any noise such as a high-pitched whining noise while under load. The noise can be at almost any speed.
While you're in there you might check the pinion shaft bearing preload and adjust it to specs. An old bearing set should have a turning torque resistance of 8-14 lb/inch. If the value is too low, the pinion shaft nut must be tightened a bit at a time until the resistance is achieved. The check and adjustment should be done before the brake system is reinstalled. Of necessity, the drive shaft must be dropped at the differential drive flange in order to make the check and adjustments.
Remove the drums or rotors.
Remove the diff cover.
Find the diff pinion gear shaft retaining bolt (lock pin) and remove it.
Remove the pinion shaft and pinion gears.
Push the axles inboard as far as they will go.
Remove the C-clips from the axle ends in the diff.
Pull the axles out of the axle housing.
Pull the axle oil seals out.
Pull the bearings out.
Check the bearing race surfaces on the axles to make sure they're in good shape....no grooves or obvious signs of wear.
Drive in new bearings.
Drive in new seals.
Push the axles back in place using care not the scuff the new seals.
Replace the C-clips.
Pull the axles outboard.
Replace the diff pinion gears and pinion shaft.
Replace and torque the pinion shaft retaining bolt (lock pin) 15-30 lb/ft.
Replace the diff cover, black silicon rubber seal, torque bolts 25-35 lb/ft.
Reinstall the brake system.
Refill with new 75W140 synthetic lube (and friction modifier if required for the limited-slip diff.)
Then sit down and eat your cake.
The following only if the rear end gear set is making any noise such as a high-pitched whining noise while under load. The noise can be at almost any speed.
While you're in there you might check the pinion shaft bearing preload and adjust it to specs. An old bearing set should have a turning torque resistance of 8-14 lb/inch. If the value is too low, the pinion shaft nut must be tightened a bit at a time until the resistance is achieved. The check and adjustment should be done before the brake system is reinstalled. Of necessity, the drive shaft must be dropped at the differential drive flange in order to make the check and adjustments.
Last edited by Kattumaram; 05-24-2010 at 05:15 PM.
#4
crush a little car today
9.75-Inch Ring Gear Axle Shaft
Removal
Removal
- WARNING: The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in the RH kick panel area. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations. Raise and support the vehicle.
- Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
- Remove the differential housing cover.
- Remove the brake calipers and discs.
- Remove the differential pinion shaft.
- CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the axle shaft grooves. Remove the U-washers.
- CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal. Remove the two axle shafts.
- Lubricate the lip of the wheel bearing oil seal. Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-Cor equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-MlC75-B.
- CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal. Install the two axle shafts.
- CAUTION: Do not damage the new O-rings in the U-washer grooves. Install the U-washers.
- NOTE: If a new pinion shaft lock bolt is unavailable, coat the threads with Threadlock and Scaler EOAZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications WSK-M2G351-A5 prior to installation. Install the differential pinion shaft.
- Install the brake discs.
- Install the differential housing cover and fill the rear axle housing with the correct amount of specified lubricant.
- Install the tire and wheel assembly.
- Lower the vehicle.