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Proportioning Valve Fitting

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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 12:17 AM
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Default Proportioning Valve Fitting

So I am about to replace the brake line that feeds the rear brakes and there is so much rust on this fitting I cannot tell what it looked like originally. Am I supposed to unscrew at A and B will remain, or will the entire part A+B screw out of C (the RABS proportioning valve)? I just don't want to break anything and cannot find this fitting for sale anywhere so I cannot find a stock photo of it. Thanks in advance if anyone knows what this part is supposed to look like or where I would even buy it when it inevitably breaks.



1997 4.6L V8
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 01:02 AM
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Mine looked just as bad at one time. It's just one piece. Couldn't find either and re-used it. Mine cleaned up well and required a little heat to remove. Doesn't take much, propane worked quickly, -



But you will definitely need a little heat or you'll fubar everything up lol. There is also a union half way back to the rear. You can delete that and make it just a one piece line.

Last edited by Jbrew; Oct 8, 2016 at 01:05 AM.
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 09:54 PM
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For giggles, I went out and looked at mine..... not too terribly bad for 235,000 miles.


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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 10:15 PM
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Yours looks good, that fitting still has a little zinc on it. I had to wheel mine, then use a little zinc highliter pen I made up for a re-coat lol.
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 10:19 PM
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How did you get your proportioning so dang clean Brewster? Wire wheel too? I reckon the wire wheel would tear that rubber deal all to pieces, LOL.
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
How did you get your proportioning so dang clean Brewster? Wire wheel too? I reckon the wire wheel would tear that rubber deal all to pieces, LOL.
I used a cupped wheel that fit it perfectly. Probably a Dremel attachment I expect. I never removed the valve, I knew better lol. I did it without the master or any lines in the way, it only took maybe 5 or 10 minutes.
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 02:14 AM
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Excellent post Jbrew! Exactly what I needed. I am in awe of whatever voodoo magic you used to keep your Michigan truck that rust free inside the engine bay :P Mine did start leaking right before that union where it fatigued and I ordered some Nickel Copper 3/16 lines and will be tackling this project soon. I really hope I can reuse that fitting. Luckily the Mason u-pull is only an hour away
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by striker1211
Excellent post Jbrew! Exactly what I needed. I am in awe of whatever voodoo magic you used to keep your Michigan truck that rust free inside the engine bay :P Mine did start leaking right before that union where it fatigued and I ordered some Nickel Copper 3/16 lines and will be tackling this project soon. I really hope I can reuse that fitting. Luckily the Mason u-pull is only an hour away
I kept the engine compartment clean enough, but the rest of the truck is rotting. I have to get on that soon. Just noticed the core or radiator support is starting to go, just another thing that will need attention soon. Other than the rust, the truck is sound....mechanically especially.

Those line fittings, as bad they may look on outside, the insides have been preserved were it counts. I replaced all lines at 185,000 miles. The truck now has 330,000 miles plus on it. Still using the same fittings, just new lines. Surprised no one makes replacements yet.
I know Dorman sells kits now, that include all the F150 lines and fittings. The lines are pre-bent w/fittings, so if your still looking, you may want to check that out.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 12:14 AM
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So, to follow up, I put off doing this because something always breaks whenever I touch this truck... and sure enough that fitting broke just as I thought it would. I sprayed this thing 7 days in a row with PB. I tried with a line wrench. No go. I cut the brake line off square and put a socket on it. No go. I then heated it up with a torch and without giving it any more force than before it snapped it's neck right at the nut. So I'm off to the junk yard tomorrow to get this ****** fitting. What is strange though is that the fitting seems to be a 7/16-24 fitting and matched the threads of the inline tube brand fitting kit I got on eBay. Sure enough it fits right in the hole on the valve and fits the line just fine. Now I am wondering what the purpose of this strange fitting is. I am thinking anti-fatigue of some sort but I would wonder why none of the other outlet valves are like this. I'm stumped. Anyways, here are some photos.






The valve port



Ouch



Close up. It's bent because I had to vice grip it out.



Same size, same pitch.




Last edited by striker1211; Oct 20, 2016 at 12:21 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 12:05 PM
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Did you delete the union? Not too sure why the hell that was thought of as a good idea. When the time comes, mine will be Audi 5000.
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