Haha! Yep. Useless information retained shall one day find a use. :)

The only reason I suggested 4.88s is that the 4.6 has no kahonas. I had a 97 with 285/70/16's that couldn't get out of it's own way. The 5.4 is a completely different animal. Much better torque curve.

Another formula for converting metric sizes to inches for ya.

285 (tread width)/70 (aspect ratio or .70)/16(rim size)

Tread width ÷ 25.4= width in inches

[((Tread width ÷ 25.4)× aspect ratio%)×2] + rim size = tire height

;)

Sunk in the mud and towing for work is most of my driving lol that's why I want the higher power from 4.88s. And I've rebuilt my axle once when it blew the first time and it was a major pain in the ass but I believe I'm capable. The hardest part was torqueing 400 lbs on the crush sleeve. Honestly I don't want to pay a lot to have it done unless I know its getting done perfectly. I am assuming it wouldn't be a low number that they throw at me either.

Lol my 4.6 is basically stock engine wise And 3.55s on 35s and mine will move like a MF, if I floor it I'm gone

I'm driving a 2wd 4.6 right now with stock street tires and the bitch barely moves

Bone stock at 70mph in overdrive you should have been around 1,981rpm

With 4.88 and 37s you will be around 2,232rpm

With 4.56 and 37s you'd be around 2,085rpm

All while right now you're probably around 1,719rpm and you feel the difference from stock, correct?

So you see it's all close but a couple hundred rpms can make a difference... just like dropping to 1,719 from 1,981 when you put the 35s on...

Something to think about as far as what you're looking for...

**equations are based on tires being about an inch smaller than the manufacture states...

I very rarely highway drive I do 60 max around here so I'm not to worried about highway speed rpms . in overdrive right now at 45 I do 1k rpms stock is like 13 and at 60 is around 1700. Also I've been on the highway like twice with this truck and I do about 2200 rpms always because my od can't hold my speed when I'm moving that fast with these pansy gears

Is not so much more power, it's getting to where the engine makes its peak power quicker.... much like starting off on a 10 speed bike in 3rd gear instead of 1st, you won't get up to speed as quickly...

And 300-400ftlbs on a crush sleeve is an approximate measurement to yield the final pinion bearing preload... The actual process is a guess and check... You tighten the pinion nut and check it until you reach... without backing off...

15-19inchlbs of rotating force to move the pinion shaft "not against the ring gear"
Or
6-8inchlbs on a used bearing as to not "break it in" because it's already broken in...

It may only take 280ftlbs depending on the crush sleeve...

My calculations show you at 60mph in overdrive you should be at approximately 1,473rpm with 35s and 3.55s

Are you reprogrammed correctly to correct your speedo? I think not if you're reading 1,700 at 60 with your current setup...

Nvm... you're a 97... so your speedo is off bro, unless you corrected it mechanically... but you pretty much just told me you haven't...

My speedo is exactly 5 mph off, if it reads 55 I'm at 60 I didn't think it would throw my Rpms off though?