moto.troy

2000 4.6L I have a P1450 code. Evap canister vent solenoid holds vacuum well but does not release vacuum when power is removed. Is that normal or is that my problem? The solenoid seems to cycle open and closed normally when not under vacuum.

Thanks!

Erick_

Can the p1408 code cause the truck to shake at idle and at speed (at around 50 ish)? I'm also having significant power loss like from the 2-3 shift and 3-OD I'm having to stomp on the gas to get the rpms up in order to shift. I was thinking these could be related.
Truck - 1997 F150 5.4L 4x4 AT

Jbrew

Seriously doubt it. That's EVR flow, the PCM would have to be wacked or possessed. Easy enough to check, just pull the green line and leave it off. That tests the 1408 against a drivablity concern.

However, given your description, you could very well have an EGR "valve" problem. The easiest/cheapest way to confirm is to temporarily block the port into the TB elbow. Just loosen the EGR valve, enough to slide a thin piece of sheet metal between the valve and TB elbow port. You do that and there's know possible way the EGR system can affect the way the engine run. If the problem goes away, then yes, it's the EGR. It's a big shortcut lol .

Erick_

Thanks, will do 👍

Jerry Johnson

Did smoke test leaking somewhere between gas tank and spare tire see smoke before spare
​​​​​​ tire

Jbrew

Thanks for the info man.

rgfoote

Hi. I saw in your list: 8/1/20 I have a "P1132 Lack of HO2S11 Switch-Sens Indicates Rich" code which I had. Replaced up and downstream O2 sensors. when starting it up, I found a leak behind the heat shield of the forward small cat and can feel it with my hand. Probably all the trauma removing O2 sensors caused rusted metal to let go.
Now it shows a different P1132:
8/24/20 New code: "P1132 Heated O2 sensor circuit Low Variance Bank 2 Sensor 1. Is it because of the leak? Is it the variance between the up and downstream sensors indicating a bad cat?

rgfoote

OOPS wrong post-ignore this

rgfoote

Fatboy: I too was worried about the plugs on my 98 F-150 5.4. Bad shaking over 30mph, skipping at idle. Way back when I was asking that question, some one told me my truck isn't included in that generation where they break, and to go ahead and change them. I hope someone can tell you the same thing. (I too came here for help and sometimes it's hard to communicate with seasoned mechanics. But I have got lots of help here.) Duct tape a small hose or tube to small shop vac and use it every step of the way. They actually were loose or easy to get out as far as getting them loose. I'm 66 and the first thing I did was make a foam cushion board covered with tarp material about 2'x2' with 2 clamp brackets on the radiator side and 2 brackets with holes to mount on fenders using the fender bolts. I did the whole job on my chest. It really takes a lot of patience. After that, it still ran the same! The plugs were really old and were needed anyway. Next I decided to replace all the coils and fuel injectors. (never done this before and spent hours watching tutorials). Watch out for the openings toward the center of engine. You could lose things there! Bought cheap parts on Amazon including Motorcraft plugs and spent under $125 including brake cleaner and die-electric grease. Pulling the rails is easy and when I next time change the plugs, I definitely will pull the rails to get out of the way! Even then it really is not easy in back. They make everything look easy in videos. Like the fuel injectors. they don't just pop out. I found spraying them with brake cleaner and rotating the tops in a 360 motion, clock and counter clockwise loosens them up. It also loosens the hard crap where they seat.Then spray and scrape the holes you pulled them from so they are perfectly clean. the Be sure when removing, you see a ring on the top and bottom. If you don't, they are in the rail or block. You can get them out with your pick set. They come with new ones. I also found the only way I could get new ones back into the rail was by carefully pushing the rail into them starting from the back. My truck runs so good now I still can't believe it! I spent $$$ at shops that did nothing and was afraid of doing this for 2 years because I know they must know a lot more than me. Where I am, labor is $120/hr. Watch All the videos, take the good from each one, take notes and pics, and come here with questions. Good luck

rgfoote

Thanks Jbrew. I copied them all!