Overheating after new Radiator?
07-06-2014, 11:04 PM
#11
Pull off the cap from the coolant resivor, start the truck and squeeze the coolant hoses you can reach and help the system burp itself. Make sure everything is cool before attempting so you don't get burned. Doing this on an incline will help too.
07-07-2014, 01:22 AM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Jbrew, great advice I'll have to try that in the morning.
I have a update, I have let it idle on a incline with the cap on/off while pumping the hoses. Gave it a little gas at times to. With the cap off some coolant comes out the tank(shoukd I allow this or no?). Cap on all the hoses get stiff, upper radiator hose and the hose going to the heater core(?) On the right are hot. The hose beside the hot heater core one(on the left) is cold, as well as the lower radiator hose.
I don't know if this helps diagnosis anything.. all this was done with passenger side on a ramp, heater turned to the max and no t-stat to ensure that's not the problem.
I have a update, I have let it idle on a incline with the cap on/off while pumping the hoses. Gave it a little gas at times to. With the cap off some coolant comes out the tank(shoukd I allow this or no?). Cap on all the hoses get stiff, upper radiator hose and the hose going to the heater core(?) On the right are hot. The hose beside the hot heater core one(on the left) is cold, as well as the lower radiator hose.
I don't know if this helps diagnosis anything.. all this was done with passenger side on a ramp, heater turned to the max and no t-stat to ensure that's not the problem.
07-07-2014, 04:51 AM
#13
Senior Member
07-07-2014, 05:12 AM
#14
Senior Member
Replace the Cap. A faulty cap can cause thermostat to stuck partially open. I don't know why. I tried switching the cap from E150 with a failed radiator oil cooler. If i used that cap on other vehicle it's shuddering @ WOT
07-08-2014, 01:04 AM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update:
So I took off the hoses that connect to radiator and water pump. I rinsed them and my bran new radiator out real good. I had the truck running for a good while with my garden hose inserted where the t-stat would be located. I had it revved a lot and the whole time it was Stone cold. Did it for about a hour.. i then hooked everything up and filled the whole system with water. Started by filling in the t-stat housing.
It can now idle all day long staying a hair under the 1/2 mark on the temp. Gauge. I had the heater on full blast with the zone in defrost. Found a kink on the right hand side heater core hose, angled the hose so it's not as bad..
I just took her on a test drive(all this no t-stat still..because autozone sold me the wrong one).
It's fine in the city, I got on the interstate and floored it till I got to 85mph the temp gauge shot to 3/4.. I then pulled over and looked in the engine..the hoses were firm with pressure. 2 min later it was at 1/2 and I managed to cruise anywhere below 80-85 with it a hair below 1/2. To get to that speed I had to be easy on the gas tho. (Once it got to 3/4 it would cool to half at idle but wont go to a hair below half until I start driving).
I also noticed when the temp got to 3/4 the whole top of radiator was hot(passenger to driver). One it cools to 1/2 the passenger is hotter than the drivers side.
Both the heater hoses are now as hot as the top radiator hose. After that first time I felt the hoses, now when it's hot they are not firm. Like their is a leak, I could hear a air sound or similar by the crossover/bottom hose when I squeeze the top hose with the cap on. Took the cap off l.. can't hear it. Then I used the palm of my hand as the cap squeezing it, could hear it again but didn't see any leaks. While it was running it looks like water is moving in/out of expansion tank(looks like when you hold a garden hose under the water surface in a pool). My heater still does not work a single bit inside the cab.
So it's good below 85mph but not above that and can't floor it to get there..
Why would this be? Is it because there is just water in the system and the boiling point is low? Anything worn on water pump? Or leak?
Seems to be a little better but I did upgrade from a 1 row radiator to a 2 row.
I really appreciate your help guys!!!
So I took off the hoses that connect to radiator and water pump. I rinsed them and my bran new radiator out real good. I had the truck running for a good while with my garden hose inserted where the t-stat would be located. I had it revved a lot and the whole time it was Stone cold. Did it for about a hour.. i then hooked everything up and filled the whole system with water. Started by filling in the t-stat housing.
It can now idle all day long staying a hair under the 1/2 mark on the temp. Gauge. I had the heater on full blast with the zone in defrost. Found a kink on the right hand side heater core hose, angled the hose so it's not as bad..
I just took her on a test drive(all this no t-stat still..because autozone sold me the wrong one).
It's fine in the city, I got on the interstate and floored it till I got to 85mph the temp gauge shot to 3/4.. I then pulled over and looked in the engine..the hoses were firm with pressure. 2 min later it was at 1/2 and I managed to cruise anywhere below 80-85 with it a hair below 1/2. To get to that speed I had to be easy on the gas tho. (Once it got to 3/4 it would cool to half at idle but wont go to a hair below half until I start driving).
I also noticed when the temp got to 3/4 the whole top of radiator was hot(passenger to driver). One it cools to 1/2 the passenger is hotter than the drivers side.
Both the heater hoses are now as hot as the top radiator hose. After that first time I felt the hoses, now when it's hot they are not firm. Like their is a leak, I could hear a air sound or similar by the crossover/bottom hose when I squeeze the top hose with the cap on. Took the cap off l.. can't hear it. Then I used the palm of my hand as the cap squeezing it, could hear it again but didn't see any leaks. While it was running it looks like water is moving in/out of expansion tank(looks like when you hold a garden hose under the water surface in a pool). My heater still does not work a single bit inside the cab.
So it's good below 85mph but not above that and can't floor it to get there..
Why would this be? Is it because there is just water in the system and the boiling point is low? Anything worn on water pump? Or leak?
Seems to be a little better but I did upgrade from a 1 row radiator to a 2 row.
I really appreciate your help guys!!!
Last edited by apoirier594; 07-08-2014 at 01:08 AM.
07-08-2014, 06:23 AM
#16
Senior Member
You want to get a TStat in there ASAP, without a TStat the truck stays in open loop and you don't want that.
As far as the other issues, have you changed your coolant cap? When under pressure it raises the boiling point of the coolant so if your system isn't pressurizing then it could be flashing the coolant at a lower temp and causing your issue.
Also once you get this problem figured it get the tap water out of it! Use destilled water, tap water has materials in it has causes build up! Destilled water does not, also throw some water wetter in it. And if you live in the south and don't have to worry about freezing use less coolant than 50/50. Straight water cools better than coolant.
Make sure you install the TStat the right way, many many people have installed them backwards and has caused them plenty of headaches.
Wayne
As far as the other issues, have you changed your coolant cap? When under pressure it raises the boiling point of the coolant so if your system isn't pressurizing then it could be flashing the coolant at a lower temp and causing your issue.
Also once you get this problem figured it get the tap water out of it! Use destilled water, tap water has materials in it has causes build up! Destilled water does not, also throw some water wetter in it. And if you live in the south and don't have to worry about freezing use less coolant than 50/50. Straight water cools better than coolant.
Make sure you install the TStat the right way, many many people have installed them backwards and has caused them plenty of headaches.
Wayne
07-08-2014, 06:27 AM
#17
Senior Member
I think your oil is below minimum. It won't overheat on idle if there is enough oil in the engine because of Fail Safe System. It will automatically stop injecting fuel on some cylinder randomly. Automotive oil today are full of detergent and additives that absorb moisture. It's almost impossible to detect oil consumption unless you drive it a highway for several miles to boil mositure and fuel out of your oil. The reason you need to replace your coolant after a period of time is to prevent chemical electrolysis from happening that could eat the impeller on your water pump.
Wayne
07-08-2014, 09:09 AM
#18
Senior Member
One other thing you can do to get the air out of the system is install a flush & fill kit on one of the heater hoses. Costs less than $15 and takes 10 minutes to install. You can then fill the system from its highest point where air is more likely to accumulate.
07-08-2014, 12:34 PM
#19
Update:
So I took off the hoses that connect to radiator and water pump. I rinsed them and my bran new radiator out real good. I had the truck running for a good while with my garden hose inserted where the t-stat would be located. I had it revved a lot and the whole time it was Stone cold. Did it for about a hour.. i then hooked everything up and filled the whole system with water. Started by filling in the t-stat housing.
It can now idle all day long staying a hair under the 1/2 mark on the temp. Gauge. I had the heater on full blast with the zone in defrost. Found a kink on the right hand side heater core hose, angled the hose so it's not as bad..
I just took her on a test drive(all this no t-stat still..because autozone sold me the wrong one).
It's fine in the city, I got on the interstate and floored it till I got to 85mph the temp gauge shot to 3/4.. I then pulled over and looked in the engine..the hoses were firm with pressure. 2 min later it was at 1/2 and I managed to cruise anywhere below 80-85 with it a hair below 1/2. To get to that speed I had to be easy on the gas tho. (Once it got to 3/4 it would cool to half at idle but wont go to a hair below half until I start driving).
I also noticed when the temp got to 3/4 the whole top of radiator was hot(passenger to driver). One it cools to 1/2 the passenger is hotter than the drivers side.
Both the heater hoses are now as hot as the top radiator hose. After that first time I felt the hoses, now when it's hot they are not firm. Like their is a leak, I could hear a air sound or similar by the crossover/bottom hose when I squeeze the top hose with the cap on. Took the cap off l.. can't hear it. Then I used the palm of my hand as the cap squeezing it, could hear it again but didn't see any leaks. While it was running it looks like water is moving in/out of expansion tank(looks like when you hold a garden hose under the water surface in a pool). My heater still does not work a single bit inside the cab.
So it's good below 85mph but not above that and can't floor it to get there..
Why would this be? Is it because there is just water in the system and the boiling point is low? Anything worn on water pump? Or leak?
Seems to be a little better but I did upgrade from a 1 row radiator to a 2 row.
I really appreciate your help guys!!!
So I took off the hoses that connect to radiator and water pump. I rinsed them and my bran new radiator out real good. I had the truck running for a good while with my garden hose inserted where the t-stat would be located. I had it revved a lot and the whole time it was Stone cold. Did it for about a hour.. i then hooked everything up and filled the whole system with water. Started by filling in the t-stat housing.
It can now idle all day long staying a hair under the 1/2 mark on the temp. Gauge. I had the heater on full blast with the zone in defrost. Found a kink on the right hand side heater core hose, angled the hose so it's not as bad..
I just took her on a test drive(all this no t-stat still..because autozone sold me the wrong one).
It's fine in the city, I got on the interstate and floored it till I got to 85mph the temp gauge shot to 3/4.. I then pulled over and looked in the engine..the hoses were firm with pressure. 2 min later it was at 1/2 and I managed to cruise anywhere below 80-85 with it a hair below 1/2. To get to that speed I had to be easy on the gas tho. (Once it got to 3/4 it would cool to half at idle but wont go to a hair below half until I start driving).
I also noticed when the temp got to 3/4 the whole top of radiator was hot(passenger to driver). One it cools to 1/2 the passenger is hotter than the drivers side.
Both the heater hoses are now as hot as the top radiator hose. After that first time I felt the hoses, now when it's hot they are not firm. Like their is a leak, I could hear a air sound or similar by the crossover/bottom hose when I squeeze the top hose with the cap on. Took the cap off l.. can't hear it. Then I used the palm of my hand as the cap squeezing it, could hear it again but didn't see any leaks. While it was running it looks like water is moving in/out of expansion tank(looks like when you hold a garden hose under the water surface in a pool). My heater still does not work a single bit inside the cab.
So it's good below 85mph but not above that and can't floor it to get there..
Why would this be? Is it because there is just water in the system and the boiling point is low? Anything worn on water pump? Or leak?
Seems to be a little better but I did upgrade from a 1 row radiator to a 2 row.
I really appreciate your help guys!!!
Why do you need to go over 85 in an old truck?
