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New Rotors and Pads - Anything Else I Need?

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Old 08-16-2016, 12:01 AM
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Also, if you are reusing the same calipers. Make sure you take the slides apart, clean thoroughly and apply a good coat of anti seize to prevent your calipers from sticking and causing premature brake wear! Can't stress this enough either!

YouTube is a great way to watch somebody do something first hand. Between that and all of the great people on this forum, I have saved literally thousands in labor costs by doing things myself!
Old 08-16-2016, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DrillRig52


And last but I believe is one of the most important things you need to do is, do not use ceramic pads. They will glaze over and cause brake chatter (ask me how I know). A good quality semi metallic pad will be the best for stopping power, and as Jbrew said, you need all you can get with these trucks.

Just some tips and things I've learned the hard way over the years. Hope this helps!
Never heard this, and not my experience. I've had absolutely no issues with power stop pads. And clean wheels. May have to do with way driven? Towing? 35+" tires? Etc

Last edited by mbb; 08-16-2016 at 06:46 AM.
Old 08-16-2016, 08:49 AM
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I would open the brake bleeders before pushing the caliper pistons back in. You will have to bleed the brakes you do. Fronts, only bleed the fronts. Rears, only bleed the rears. I always crack the bleeder loose, if possible, and push the old fluid out. I've had to replace a few HCU's over the years from pushing contaminated fluid back to the master. Stuck bleeder, try an air hammer lightly next to the bleeder while putting pressure on the wrench. Works almost every time.
Old 08-16-2016, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TRD-Toy
I would open the brake bleeders before pushing the caliper pistons back in. You will have to bleed the brakes you do. Fronts, only bleed the fronts. Rears, only bleed the rears. I always crack the bleeder loose, if possible, and push the old fluid out. I've had to replace a few HCU's over the years from pushing contaminated fluid back to the master. Stuck bleeder, try an air hammer lightly next to the bleeder while putting pressure on the wrench. Works almost every time.


Just take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir.
Old 08-18-2016, 12:30 PM
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When I did mine, I put cross drilled rotors on the front and replace the calipers. It really helps improve the stopping power of my brakes. The calipers were not very expensive and I believe it good insurance against a problem in the future (the existing calipers were original with 158K miles) On my 98, I have rotors on the front and drum brakes on the back. Not sure why the difference in your 98. I also put brake grease on all the metal to metal contact points on the pads


Just checked on Rock Auto and they have everything you will need for a little less than $350. All premium stuff. They are showing Rotors on the front and drum brakes on the rear.

Last edited by Frank_Ford; 08-18-2016 at 12:46 PM.
Old 08-18-2016, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mbb
Never heard this, and not my experience. I've had absolutely no issues with power stop pads. And clean wheels. May have to do with way driven? Towing? 35+" tires? Etc
The ceramics aren't the best when you need real stopping power, in fact, ceramics are dead last when it comes to that, - they will glaze even the thickest rotors. I can't believe what they did to my Brembos. It happened during road construction on the highway, people speeding up then coming to a dead stop over and over. Glazed mine so bad I had to take the shoulder a few times..never again. Search brake pad ratings at google images to get the low down on pads.
Old 08-18-2016, 08:16 PM
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Did you order EBC's yet Brewski?
Old 08-18-2016, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
The ceramics aren't the best when you need real stopping power, in fact, ceramics are dead last when it comes to that, - they will glaze even the thickest rotors. I can't believe what they did to my Brembos. It happened during road construction on the highway, people speeding up then coming to a dead stop over and over. Glazed mine so bad I had to take the shoulder a few times..never again. Search brake pad ratings at google images to get the low down on pads.
All I can say is...no problems here.
I drive a lot of stop and go interstate at low speeds 5-20 mph
And a lot of interstate high speeds with no braking

Rest of time I piddle around town like a grandpa. Rarely exceed 2000 rpm. I accelerate slow, slow down slow, etc.

So maybe its my driving

But Ive been happy after 15000 miles with my powerstop ceramic pads when paired with new rotors. And it doesnt get cold where I am so thats not really a consideration.
Old 08-18-2016, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mbb
All I can say is...no problems here.
I drive a lot of stop and go interstate at low speeds 5-20 mph
And a lot of interstate high speeds with no braking

Rest of time I piddle around town like a grandpa. Rarely exceed 2000 rpm. I accelerate slow, slow down slow, etc.

So maybe its my driving

But Ive been happy after 15000 miles with my powerstop ceramic pads when paired with new rotors. And it doesnt get cold where I am so thats not really a consideration.
Mine were good for awhile as well, - lesson learned when it came to the real test. Yea, I won't use their rotors, there's just not enough there lol. I'm always towing or hauling something so I need heavy rotors on the truck that can take that kind of heat. OEM and a little better just won't cut it. They warp way to easy. Can't use anything that comes full of holes or chunks missing, it has to be a solid rotor...more beef the better for the truck. Something lighter, yea those would be great. PS makes a solid rotor too if I recall, but the rotor spread (web) was wider with less metal (thin rotors) in comparison to the Brembos back when I gutted the brakes. Yea, I've got 140,000 miles on the Brembos, never been turned but they need it now if I use them again. I'm probably going to go with 7700's now for even more beef and Green pads. One thing that's great about ceramics they don't dust a whole lot. It takes a lot of miles to notice but they will dust the inside of the rims eventually...enough to notice.

Last edited by Jbrew; 08-18-2016 at 10:31 PM.
Old 08-18-2016, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Did you order EBC's yet Brewski?
Not yet. I want the performance of the Yellows without the dust lol. I'll probably go with Greens. You recommended the Greens to me didn't yuh? Think I'll go with those.

I've been kind of tossing around whether to go with the 7700's or just get the Brembo's turned since my Ford calipers Cardon rebuilds w/steel pistons work flawlessly. Turn the Brembo's and try the Greens with them. I definitely DON'T want that fade issue again. I haven't put a dent in her yet, knock on wood. Been rear ended, no damage, but man, you should of seen the other guys ride . I just so happen to have my hitch on so...A solid steel draw tight.

Last edited by Jbrew; 08-18-2016 at 10:44 PM.


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