abtrumpet

Hey all -- sorry if this is the wrong place to be posting this! I'm new here, just bought myself a dirt cheap 2000 5.4L, auto 4x4 F150 w/ESOF. It was $800, which is pretty reasonable considering the frame is straight but it has some wonky mechanical issues. The engine has troubles, but that's for another thread later.

My main concern right now has to do with the transmission / transfer case. I'm honestly not positive where to start with this one. Here is a description of the issue:

The car fires up fine, engine idle is a bit off but not terrible. Oil pressure indicator slightly above middle, battery good, gas 98%. ABS light is on, even after I clear codes. Firing it up after it sits for while, I can shift to reverse/drive and it moves just fine. Once I get on the road, however, things start going crazy. The speedo reads incorrect speeds, like 45 when I'm going maybe 10. It can also go up even if the car isn't moving. I drive for a mile and I feel a hard kick, like the tranny slips into neutral. I can then rev the engine up, and both the speedo and tach go up but the truck stays put. This happens whether in R, D, 1 or 2. No engagement whatsoever. Then, I move the shift lever to P and I hear a strange grinding noise, which I don't hear when it is actually moving under its own power. I turn it off, disconnect/reconnect battery, and play with ESOF **** until it decides to engage again. Once it engages again I can drive fine for another mile (at slow speeds) before this "slipping" happens again. The video below shows in more detail what is occurring.

I have replaced the rear diff speed sensor, as I heard that might be the culprit, but it did not seem to fix anything. Any ideas?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZMb...ature=youtu.be

fordguy2100

How's the trans fluid level?

Also get the abs code read and post it up here.

abtrumpet

It's overfilled, actually. Clean, though, ruby red and not super-dirty. Have not checked fluid level in transfer case (does it take gear oil, I'm assuming it does?)

As far as the ABS light goes, that's the weird thing. My Bosch 1050 says "no codes" even when the light is on.

abtrumpet

These were the stored codes:

B1884
B1676
C1185
C1096
P1000
P1260

abtrumpet

Well, after playing with it some more I believe it is a computer issue. I hooked up my Bosch 1050 and watched the data streams while driving. For a few minutes, the dash and the data streams were the same. Then, it kicked into neutral and the data stream read 0 RPM and 10 MPH while the engine was idling. It was idling a little rough. Then, I got it working again by playing with the 4x4 **** and trans lever until it moved again. I watched the datastream and it was fine until 13 mph, when it kicked to neutral again and the datastream "stuck" at 13 mph. The speedo on the dash read some absurdly high number while the vehicle was not in motion. Fixed it again by playing with 4x4 **** and shift lever.

JCR 56

Transfer case uses 2 qts. XL 12 transfer case fluid, not gear oil.

GatorSpotter

1. The Speedometer problem may be due to a bad solder joint on the back of the Speedometer Head. This will also cause the mileage display to go out.
2. The ABS is from a bad sensor or the main unit. You have a sensor on each wheel. The ODB scanner should tell you which one is out. Best bet replace all 4.
3. Don't trust the shift leaver indication because it is adjustable. In fact the adjuster plastic mount will eventually break but can be repaired with a cable tie.
4. The bump in the tranny is probably from it shifting out of gear. While another type of bump while driving is with the drive shaft neck. Remove the drive shaft, the yoke where it fits into the transfer case will need a thick coat of grease on the spines. The bump is created by the splines grabbing. Change the u-joints while you are at it. Note the rear bracket will probably break unless you use a press. I suggest taking the assembly to a drive shaft shop and have them change the joints. Then grease it up and put it on.
5. The rough engine can be caused by moisture in the spark plug holes. Change the plugs and check cyls 1234 on the left side as you face the engine from the front. If moisture found change the igniters and boots, then seal top of boot lip with a light coat of silicon.
All of these procedures can be found on YouTube.

Jbrew

That's critical...don't want to ignore that, it'll cost yuh.